2005 17' towlite - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

COLLINGWOOD · 03-28-2012, 04:47 PM

I need to remove my sewer tank and either get it repaired or look for a new one. Does anyone know if I have to remove the toilet from inside before the tank will drop down once I have the straps off. I don't want to remove the toilet if I don't have to. Someone told me there is a flange of some kind that needs to be removed and the only way to remove it to allow the tank to drop is to remove the toilet bowl and unscrew it . or it may be glued.
Any help would be appreciated :

JMDoering · 03-28-2012, 04:53 PM

On ours, the toilet needs to be removed. Yes, the toilet mounting flange screws into the inlet of the tank.

Jim

COLLINGWOOD · 03-28-2012, 05:26 PM

Thanks Jim That,s what I needed to know.
Next project is to try and get the sides even when full up . Will follow the manual first to see if I can get them even. One side seems to be to high , nearly level where picture in manual shows correct position about and inch lower then the top ledge.

JIM L · 03-28-2012, 07:18 PM

I have had to repair cracks in the tanks on two of my RV's. Jim D is correct that most toilet flanges screw into the top of the tank. On both of my RV's cracks were around the area where the flange screwed into the tank and also had cracks in the bottom corners of the tanks. To repair, clean the crack area good with MEK, (get it in any paint dept). Get some fiberglass cloth and a can of ABS cement. Put a good layer of cement on the crack area, a layer of cloth, then work in another layer of cement over the cloth, let dry for a few hours then repeat with a second layer of cloth. I have never had the repaired areas crack again. Get back if you have questions.

JMDoering · 03-28-2012, 07:26 PM

Hi Jim,

Many moons ago, you (I think) had written that you were interested in starting a Hi-Lo Club in your area. How did that work out?

BTW, we're towing our rig back to your neck of the woods this Summer to visit our daughter/family in Stafford. I'm really looking forward to seeing your beautiful State.

Jim

JIM L · 03-28-2012, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLLINGWOOD

Thanks Jim That,s what I needed to know.
Next project is to try and get the sides even when full up . Will follow the manual first to see if I can get them even. One side seems to be to high , nearly level where picture in manual shows correct position about and inch lower then the top ledge.

Make sure you do not try to get the top half ledge level with the bottom half ledge. Many owners have tried to and have done major damage to the top ledge where the cables attach to the ledge. You have it adjusted correctly when the seal fits snuggly against the mating surface on the other half. The relationship of one ledge to the other will vary according to the type seal and how old it is. This is how it works on my HiLo and many others but the HiLo's have been built for so many years and so many models that yours could be different. I did not see what year and model you have. It always helps to know this as a owner with the same model will usually have the best answer.

JIM L · 03-28-2012, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMDoering

Hi Jim,

Many moons ago, you (I think) had written that you were interested in starting a Hi-Lo Club in your area. How did that work out?

BTW, we're towing our rig back to your neck of the woods this Summer to visit our daughter/family in Stafford. I'm really looking forward to seeing your beautiful State.

Jim

HI Jim, Have not gotten far on a VA club as this has been a very busy year and also a lot of travel. Have been collecting names of HiLo owners in VA and surrounding states so hope to get busy on this soon. When you get this way this summer, if you have a day or few days come by and lets meet. We live in the Mtns just west of Charlottesville, about 1 hour west of Stafford. We are in the middle of wine country here. Have full RV hookups and plenty of extra beds in the house. Good fishing in my lake also. Are you coming to the Rally in TN on your trip? JIM

JMDoering · 03-29-2012, 11:38 PM

Hi Jim,

We'll be in the Stafford area for a little over 2 weeks, in June. So there is a good chance we can get together during that time. I've already reserved camping space at both MCB Quantico (cheap, but a 10 day limit) and at Prince William Forest, so we're all set as far as that goes. Still, thanks for the campsite offer!

We do plan to spend time with our daughter and her family, explore the area, see some battlefields and other sights, look up a couple of old shipmates, etc. Stuff I've been looking forward to seeing/doing for a long time and may not get another chance to experience! Wouldn't be at all surprised if our path passes close to your place! I'll send you a PM and perhaps we can exchange contact and schedule info.

Regarding the National Hi-Lo Rally, we seriously considered attending this year. In fact, we'll be spending Memorial Day weekend camping at Pigeon Forge, close to Sevierville. Due to other obligations, unfortunately the timing just didn't work out for including the Rally. However, if the stars align properly and the 2014 National Rally is held in Colorado, we'll definitely be there!

Will you be attending the Sevierville Rally?

Jim

COLLINGWOOD · 03-30-2012, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIM L

Make sure you do not try to get the top half ledge level with the bottom half ledge. Many owners have tried to and have done major damage to the top ledge where the cables attach to the ledge. You have it adjusted correctly when the seal fits snuggly against the mating surface on the other half. The relationship of one ledge to the other will vary according to the type seal and how old it is. This is how it works on my HiLo and many others but the HiLo's have been built for so many years and so many models that yours could be different. I did not see what year and model you have. It always helps to know this as a owner with the same model will usually have the best answer.

Jim, I took the toilet off and I noticed the flange is screwed into the floor and screws are completely covered with silicone. I guess I have to take the screws out and then the flange will screw out? there is about a foot of pipe that extends into the tank. It is attached to the flange from what i can see. I would guess this whole thing will unscrew and pull out once I remove all the screws that are holding the flange to the floor. Is that right?

JIM L · 03-30-2012, 12:08 PM

You have it right if the flange screws into the tank as most do. With a 1ft extension I am not sure as I have never seen a threaded extension. You might check with J&R to see if HiLo ever used a cemented joint instead of a screwed joint when an extension is needed. They are really good at helping owners with info as well as parts. They worked in the factory. You will find their phone # here on the forum in many places. Hope this helps. Maybe another owner will know for sure.

COLLINGWOOD · 03-30-2012, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIM L

You have it right if the flange screws into the tank as most do. With a 1ft extension I am not sure as I have never seen a threaded extension. You might check with J&R to see if HiLo ever used a cemented joint instead of a screwed joint when an extension is needed. They are really good at helping owners with info as well as parts. They worked in the factory. You will find their phone # here on the forum in many places. Hope this helps. Maybe another owner will know for sure.

tried searching j&r and came up with no record.
I tried to just lift the flange off but with the silicone still holding in some spots it just wants to lift the flooring. I will keep trying to clean up the silicone and try screwing it off until I hear from someone for sure what I should be doing. Thanks.

JMDoering · 03-30-2012, 04:35 PM

J & R Trailer Repair

Phone: 419-883-3001.

E-mail: jrrepair@centurylink.net

Web site: www.jrrepair.embarqspace.com

JMDoering · 03-30-2012, 04:54 PM

Most of that old silicon caulk should come up using a box cutter and paint scraper. It will all be covered over, so it won't have to look good. I wouldn't replace the caulk when re-assembling; really don't think its necessary.

On our tank, the toilet flange screws onto the top of that one foot extension piece. I saw our replacement tank before it was installed and I'm almost certain that the connection hole had female threads.

BTW, while you have everything apart, do yourself a favor and install a toilet height extender. Its a transition piece that bolts between the floor and the toilet and raises the toilet seat height up to that of a normal toilet (or very close). Definitely makes the whole affair more comfortable.

On our model Hi-Lo, the factory install oriented the toilet on a straight line fore and aft. I noticed on newer models the toilet is oriented at an angle, giving better leg room. When I put our toilet back down with the extension pedestal, I oriented at an angle like the newer ones... what a terrific difference it makes (I have long legs). Something to consider if yours isn't already at an angle!

Jim

sam · 03-30-2012, 07:45 PM

I should have checked into this before dh reinstalled the toilet after the new flooring was installed. We recently installed ADA toilets in our home and they are the next best thing to sliced bread!! The HiLo toilet feels like you are dropping too low when you sit on it. Very awkward. I,m sure this would make it much more comfortable.

COLLINGWOOD · 03-30-2012, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMDoering

Most of that old silicon caulk should come up using a box cutter and paint scraper. It will all be covered over, so it won't have to look good. I wouldn't replace the caulk when re-assembling; really don't think its necessary.

On our tank, the toilet flange screws onto the top of that one foot extension piece. I saw our replacement tank before it was installed and I'm almost certain that the connection hole had female threads.

BTW, while you have everything apart, do yourself a favor and install a toilet height extender. Its a transition piece that bolts between the floor and the toilet and raises the toilet seat height up to that of a normal toilet (or very close). Definitely makes the whole affair more comfortable.

On our model Hi-Lo, the factory install oriented the toilet on a straight line fore and aft. I noticed on newer models the toilet is oriented at an angle, giving better leg room. When I put our toilet back down with the extension pedestal, I oriented at an angle like the newer ones... what a terrific difference it makes (I have long legs). Something to consider if yours isn't already at an angle!

Jim

Thanks again. I think I've got it beat. great idea about the extention mentioned and angle.
LOVE THIS FORUM.

COLLINGWOOD · 04-02-2012, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMDoering

Most of that old silicon caulk should come up using a box cutter and paint scraper. It will all be covered over, so it won't have to look good. I wouldn't replace the caulk when re-assembling; really don't think its necessary.

On our tank, the toilet flange screws onto the top of that one foot extension piece. I saw our replacement tank before it was installed and I'm almost certain that the connection hole had female threads.

BTW, while you have everything apart, do yourself a favor and install a toilet height extender. Its a transition piece that bolts between the floor and the toilet and raises the toilet seat height up to that of a normal toilet (or very close). Definitely makes the whole affair more comfortable.

On our model Hi-Lo, the factory install oriented the toilet on a straight line fore and aft. I noticed on newer models the toilet is oriented at an angle, giving better leg room. When I put our toilet back down with the extension pedestal, I oriented at an angle like the newer ones... what a terrific difference it makes (I have long legs). Something to consider if yours isn't already at an angle!

Jim

Your right, the flange did unscrew from the tank. I took the supports off under the tank and one wire grounded to the tank. I also removed the shutoff valves so the tank would drop down
When I tried to drop it down , one corner where the sewage is released would not come. I suspect it may be a gauge that registers the level of sewage in the tank. I can't seem to get at it from top or bottom .
Anyone have any ideas . I didn't want to force the tank down without checking with someone who knew first.

COLLINGWOOD · 04-03-2012, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLLINGWOOD

Your right, the flange did unscrew from the tank. I took the supports off under the tank and one wire grounded to the tank. I also removed the shutoff valves so the tank would drop down
When I tried to drop it down , one corner where the sewage is released would not come. I suspect it may be a gauge that registers the level of sewage in the tank. I can't seem to get at it from top or bottom .
Anyone have any ideas . I didn't want to force the tank down without checking with someone who knew first.

No more help needed guys. I talked to J&R repair and my problem was the pvc exhaust pipe that was holding the tank from dropping out. You have to cut the pipe off just below where the joint goes to the sink in the bathroom. Then add a connector when putting it back together. Since this would mean having to remove the cabinet to get at the pipe below the joint, I decided it was too much trouble, so got a plastic repair kit used to repair holes in boats and applied the kit over the leaking area where the sewage pipe comes out of the tank.

Note: Everyone should be aware that the sewage pipe end sits LOWER then the metal support arm thus hits the road before the metal protector and in my case pulled the hose slightly out of the tank.
Solved this concern by adding a welded piece across that sitsbelowthe end of the pump out hose where the cap attaches.

I thought this might just be mine but I checked a 2010 at a dealer and it is the same. BIG ERROR ON THEIR PART.

COLLINGWOOD · 04-04-2012, 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIM L

Make sure you do not try to get the top half ledge level with the bottom half ledge. Many owners have tried to and have done major damage to the top ledge where the cables attach to the ledge. You have it adjusted correctly when the seal fits snuggly against the mating surface on the other half. The relationship of one ledge to the other will vary according to the type seal and how old it is. This is how it works on my HiLo and many others but the HiLo's have been built for so many years and so many models that yours could be different. I did not see what year and model you have. It always helps to know this as a owner with the same model will usually have the best answer.

My problem is the rear end is too high, Following the manual I lowered the unit onto 4 equal length 4x4 and checked the cables the right rear cable (BB) and left rear cable (CC) are right at the end of the bolt. The locking nut just barely fits on , I can not loosen any further or nut will come off.

Yet the trailer when raised is still too high at the rear.

I tightened the front right and left nuts while on the 4x4 to bring the front up a little more to see if the back would even out but it made no difference.

Now when on the 4x4 blocks the rear left and right cables are really loose but if I tighten them at all when I raise the trailer it wants to come up even higher. I see I have already had minor damage to top frame from being raised too high.

JIM L · 04-04-2012, 07:41 PM

The only thing I can think might have happened is that the cables have been replaced and the two rear ones have been cut too short. Also check that the pulleys on the rear cables have not been replaced with larger diameter pulleys. I think all pulleys should be the same diameter. A couple of possible fixes, They make a threaded barrel that connects two threaded rods together. You could add a short threaded rod to the end of the adjustment rod to lengthen the cable IF the barrel does not strike the frame where the rod goes thru. Another is to cut the two cables and swedge in a short piece of cable. Be sure to swedge two furrells on each end of the repair if you go this route.

Enchantedcamper · 04-12-2012, 09:41 PM

I don't know how much slack you need, but you might get 1" longer eye bolts and see if that gets you enough slack. Might be easier than splicing cable? CAMP ON!