30Amp vs 50Amp - Page 2 - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

Wrascal · 10-08-2013, 03:43 PM

The plugs are physically different to prevent you from doing that.

RichR · 10-08-2013, 04:07 PM

The adapters only pick up one leg of the power coming from the 50 amp box. One 120 volt, the neutral, and the ground.

JackandJanet · 10-08-2013, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichR

The adapters only pick up one leg of the power coming from the 50 amp box. One 120 volt, the neutral, and the ground.

I guessed that would be the case - still, I'd test the output with an AC Voltmeter before plugging my trailer into it. I carry a good multimeter in the camper when we go camping. It's been useful several times.

- Jack

jcurtis95 · 10-08-2013, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norton Rider

This is probably not a good idea. I had one of these go up in smoke, and have a friend that had one that caught fire. In my friend's case it ignited the curtains on his boat. Fortunately, he was on-board and was able to quickly put the fire out.

Based on these experiences I never leave a tester plugged. I test the circuit when I first hook up to power at a campground or at a marina; then I unplug the tester.

Norton Rider,

I have had one plugged in almost continuously for nearly three years; not to say that won't happen to me, but there is so little current flow and there is no heat build up. The bulbs are neon bulbs from what I have read. I do put it in an electrical outlet that is away from anything flammable.

I did a little research regarding leaving one plugged in at all times. One boat owner leaves his plugged all the time in since he travels from port to port and has encountered defective wiring from some of the marina land lines.

One professional recommends leaving the polarity tester plugged in RV's at all times:
RV Electrical Safety: Part II – Meters | No~Shock~Zone "I also like to keep an outlet tester like this plugged into a visible interior RV outlet at all times. That way if something happens to the campground power in the middle of the night that electrifies all the RVs in an area, you’ll get warning from the outlet tester before you get shocked on the door frame while stepping out."

I have read where AC polarity tested good when originally connecting up an RV but sometime during the stay, some electrical work was done that reversed polarity; leaving one of the polarity checkers plugged in would give you a warning that something is wrong that could be a potential shocking hazard should you step from the RV to ground.

I am a retired SW Bell Area Manager and safety concerns over installing or repairing service in trailer parks [including RV trailers] and marinas was always a major concern of our safety program. No trailer or marina was to have any installation or repair work begun until tested with a standard AC voltage tester [insulated probe type] provided to each and every technician. I have observed several trailer home installations where the installer or repairman called his supervisor to report a 'hot' trailer and corrections had to be made by the owner before we would continue that operation. Throughout the Bell System, some tech's did not bother to use the AC voltage tester and experienced severe shock, electrical burns, and even death. You never know the experience level of who has worked on the electrical service in trailer parks, RV parks, or marinas.

Of course leaving a polarity checker plugged in is up to the individual and what he/she feels comfortable with and since I have encountered no problems, I will continue leaving it plugged in.

Jerry Curtis
Fredericksburg, TX

Wrascal · 10-08-2013, 06:34 PM

Surviving these type of mistakes makes a lasting impression. About 40 years ago I took 20mA in my elbow, exiting out the wrist.

I still ain't right.

jcurtis95 · 10-08-2013, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrascal

Surviving these type of mistakes makes a lasting impression. About 40 years ago I took 20mA in my elbow, exiting out the wrist.

I still ain't right.

Wrascal,

LOL...LMAO...I think you may be mistaken, it must have exited your brain... LOL.

Jerry Curtis
Fredericksburg, TX

Wrascal · 10-08-2013, 07:38 PM

As it would be best classified as a hard insulator, that's not enuf current to exit from there; that'd require a full 50 amps while I'm licking the station ground.

Norton Rider · 10-09-2013, 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcurtis95

Norton Rider,

I have had one plugged in almost continuously for nearly three years; not to say that won't happen to me, but there is so little current flow and there is no heat build up. The bulbs are neon bulbs from what I have read. I do put it in an electrical outlet that is away from anything flammable.

I did a little research regarding leaving one plugged in at all times. One boat owner leaves his plugged all the time in since he travels from port to port and has encountered defective wiring from some of the marina land lines.

One professional recommends leaving the polarity tester plugged in RV's at all times:
RV Electrical Safety: Part II – Meters | No~Shock~Zone "I also like to keep an outlet tester like this plugged into a visible interior RV outlet at all times. That way if something happens to the campground power in the middle of the night that electrifies all the RVs in an area, you’ll get warning from the outlet tester before you get shocked on the door frame while stepping out."

I have read where AC polarity tested good when originally connecting up an RV but sometime during the stay, some electrical work was done that reversed polarity; leaving one of the polarity checkers plugged in would give you a warning that something is wrong that could be a potential shocking hazard should you step from the RV to ground.

I am a retired SW Bell Area Manager and safety concerns over installing or repairing service in trailer parks [including RV trailers] and marinas was always a major concern of our safety program. No trailer or marina was to have any installation or repair work begun until tested with a standard AC voltage tester [insulated probe type] provided to each and every technician. I have observed several trailer home installations where the installer or repairman called his supervisor to report a 'hot' trailer and corrections had to be made by the owner before we would continue that operation. Throughout the Bell System, some tech's did not bother to use the AC voltage tester and experienced severe shock, electrical burns, and even death. You never know the experience level of who has worked on the electrical service in trailer parks, RV parks, or marinas.

Of course leaving a polarity checker plugged in is up to the individual and what he/she feels comfortable with and since I have encountered no problems, I will continue leaving it plugged in.

Jerry Curtis
Fredericksburg, TX

As you say, it is up to the individual. I for one will not leave an outlet tester plugged in constantly. I will continue to check the polarity and grounds regularly, but I will unplug the tester once I'm done. There are a couple of reasons for this:

1- Virtually every outlet tester manufacturer states in their instructions that nothing else should be plugged into the circuit being tested, otherwise it may result in false readings. Following these instructions means that everything that is connected needs to be unplugged first. Why not just do this and plug in a tester temporarily?

2- While these testers do in fact draw little power when working properly, that has nothing to do with a catastrophic failure. The tester I had was made by a name brand electrical tool company. When it failed it smoked and heated up locally. My friend's tester that caused the fire was also made by a name brand company. I saw it after it failed; it was charred and melted. Incidentally, in both cases the circuits tested fine afterwards.

A better way to constantly monitor proper grounding and polarity of the power coming into an RV is to permanently install a reverse polarity/ground indicator device in the line coming into the RV. These devices are made for permanent installation and are rated as such. Boats commonly have these in their AC panel, but most RVs do not. Of course, a device like this will not monitor the individual outlets for proper wiring, but these will only have to be checked once. One of my to-do projects is to install one on my trailer.

Incidentally, I'm an aerospace engineer and am very familiar with electrical system safety. Moreover, I teach marine electrical systems and marine electronics classes.

RKeith · 10-09-2013, 03:55 PM

Okay well now that I read some more responses and discovered that there is more than a page 1 it seems that the trouble extends to more than the A/C unit.

I found a electrical splice at the corner of the unit by the closet in bathroom. It has "color for color" splicing with wire nuts but I found one red wire off that splice. Since the jacket isn't pulled back it seems to have never been connected. When I didn't see the microwave light come on I also suspected something else was wrong. Heck, I can't even get passed plugging the darn thing in without blowing my own breaker at our home!

At this point I will have to call an electrician. Will keep all posted as to the result.

By the way, I am a Fireman and it is never a good idea to leave a "tester" or meter connected to a live circuit in the absence of the user or technician. The boat fire was avoided luckily because someone was there.

RichR · 10-09-2013, 05:42 PM

"By the way, I am a Fireman and it is never a good idea to leave a "tester" or meter connected to a live circuit in the absence of the user or technician. The boat fire was avoided luckily because someone was there."

I have to go with what a fireman says.

RKeith · 10-13-2013, 09:52 AM

Greetings to all once again. After a thorough analysis of our Hi-Lo wiring we found that the electrical box in front had been replaced. The reason it was "popping" our breaker or GFI at our home was the alleged ground from the rear of the box poking through as several unshielded solid strand copper was connected to the white power wire instead of the green ground bar terminal.

It makes me believe that the fellow which sold me the camper wasn't being completely truthful or didn't know any better after he brought unit home from having the water heater and electrical panel replaced. All in all its was a mixed Blessing since I got to know the 12VDC side and 110VAC side of the entire unit very well. This should enable me to perform a repair on the road if necessary.

Does anyone know where to get a few misc. parts for my 2008 22 Hi-Lo? No big deal but I'd like to replace the plastic valve in the front corner to drain water tank and the fitting where electrical cord exits unit in the other front corner.

retiredcamper47 · 10-13-2013, 11:22 AM

You can find those parts at any RV store. They are not HiLo specific. I replaced my fresh water drain spigot with a brass house type. I posted pics of it on the forum.

Bob

joel · 07-20-2014, 09:48 AM

new guy question do you plug camp ground connection with converter into portable generator

RichR · 07-20-2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retiredcamper47

You can find those parts at any RV store. They are not HiLo specific. I replaced my fresh water drain spigot with a brass house type. I posted pics of it on the forum.

Bob

You can get the drain spigot at Home Depot in the plumbing department. They should be in the small fittings area.

JackandJanet · 07-20-2014, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joel

new guy question do you plug camp ground connection with converter into portable generator

I do. I THINK you're asking can we use a generator to deliver 110V AC to the trailer's onboard converter? If so, the answer is yes. Plugged in this way, the converter charges the trailer's battery at a safe charging rate, decreasing the charge rate as the battery nears full charge. And, you can simultaneously use 120-120V appliances inside the trailer, such as Janet's hair blower, charging cords for laptops and cell phones, and so on.

I actually run the generator's output through a small Watt meter into the shore power cord. The meter shows me how much power the converter is pulling, and it drops as the battery approaches full charge. I like to run my generator until I see the load below 70 Watts. The load can be close to 200 Watts when I first plug it in.

- Jack

ezfreddy · 02-01-2015, 10:29 PM

Just a note when a 13,500 btu airconditioner in a camper is plugged into 30 amp shore power it doesn't notice the momentary start amps on the name plate of split second 50amp that my nameplate said.

But the generator that is 3600 sure does,