Hi, I just purchased an 1997 21' Hi-Lo. The first time I raised the camper I noticed that when full up the corners were not even - about 1" or maybe even 2" different. Two questions:

1) Two of my adjusting studs appear to be adjusted almost all the way out, is there a way to easily shorten the cable to gain back adjustment or do I have have to try to find new cables?

2) How do I know when I have the Hi-Lo adjusted to max height? Is there a floor to ceiling dimension or do I lift until the base section's upper trim and the top section's lower trim are even?

Thank you in advance for any help provided.

Hookkey in Iowa

DO NOT try to judge correct height be the "trim" or any other "feature" inside the trailer! It is unlikely that you will get the bottom lip of the top half to match the top of the bottom half when things are properly adjusted.

Instead, you need to raise the top so that the rubber seal on it contacts the corresponding part of the bottom which will keep out bugs, wind, and so on. If you try to align things from inside, you will probably raise the top too far and it can distort the point at which the cables are anchored to the top. That may have already happened in your case.

I did that to one of the cables on my trailer when I tried to align things inside. To fix it, I unscrewed the cable at that corner, filled the depression I'd created there with epoxy, then added a short piece of aluminum L-angle plate to strengthen things before reattaching the cable.

I didn't take pictures during the repair, but I'll try to take and post one of the repaired area. I think once you see it, you'll understand what I did.

To adjust things properly, you may need to take some of the inner trim off so that you can see the seal. I was able to see it in a couple of places from the outside and so I simply adjusted the height of the lower edge of the top to match everywhere else per the directions in my manual. I measured from the four "rests" on the bottom half to the top half when I did this.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T
2005 F150 4x4 KR SCrew

I don't know if you have already checked this out. My trailer doesn't sit even on the inside either. I thought it was out of adjustment because I couldn't get the tip out to come back in. I just hit the up switch and the tip out came in after that. I did the creep procedure found here in the reference library and haven't had a problem with it since.

Cable replacement and adjustment 1998 24TD

How to fix top half creep in your Hilo Trailer

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2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Crewcab w/Astro camper shell
Far West Texas

Thanks to both "JackandJanet" and RCREYES for the needed information and speedy response.

I will do a more complete inspection of cables, pulleys and anchor points to see what I have got going on. I have inspected and lubed the cables and bottom pulleys while lying on the ground beneath the trailer. From that limited view I did not see any rust or broken strands on the cables or any broken pulleys. It does bother me that the adjustment screws are showing such a difference in exposed threads. I would not think that the cables would stretch and even if they did stretch some, it should a somewhat equal amount on each of them. That said, I have not seen the upper pulleys yet so that may be my problem.

I will also see what I have to do to view the mating upper and lower gaskets to determine the fully raised position.

Once again, Thank You!!

You're welcome, hookkey, and here's the pictures I promised. Working from memory, I find my description was a bit "off" in my first post. The pictures clarified things for me, and hopefully, for you.

The first picture shows the cable attachment to the top under the forward left side of the trailer. This is an "undamaged" area. The cable is held to the top by the lag screw and the pressure exerted on the edge of the top by the cable is spread out by the small aluminum plate that is held by the two screws.

When I tried to raise the other side too much, it actually distorted (bent in) that plate and caused a severe indentation in the top in an area that I've outlined in red. I was lucky the cable didn't break. Once I released the cable by unscrewing the lag screw and removed the plate, I was able to fill the (big) "dent" with epoxy, restoring the original 90 degree edge. I hammered the plate back straight again.

Then, in the second picture, you can see how I repaired the damaged front right side. I first put on a larger 90 degree aluminum plate (held on by 4 screws) to further strengthen the damaged area and then reattached the original plate on top of that. I could then reattach the cable, and adjust it properly.

If your top is damaged like mine was, it has the effect of "lengthing" the cable. You'd have to move the adjusting screws out to compensate. A repair like mine would "shorten" the cable.

You can do this repair with the top lowered onto and supported by 4 2x4s of equal length. (I put the 2x4s between the bottom half "traveling" supports and the top.) This takes all the strain off the cables and gives you enough slack to disconnect/reconnect them.

- Jack

Attached Images

	Left Front.jpg (80.5 KB, 51 views)
	Right Front.jpg (81.2 KB, 53 views)

This was an interesting read for me and it brought up a question I would like to ask RCREYES and JackandJanet. I read the reference RCREYES made about "creep" and realized I may have been doing something in all [3] HiLo's we have owned since the early 80's.

I have always made it a practice when raising the top and it peaks out, I always push the 'raise and lower' control switch to the 'downward' position. In my mind, I am releasing the pressure off the hydraulic system and the top was then locked and resting on the locking mechanism.

Am I wrong in doing this? When it tops out to full extension, is it supposed to remain up without releasing the pressure on the hydraulic pump?

Thanks,

Jerry & Carol Curtis
2406 Towlite

I don't think the HiLo manuals really address that. I have always run the top up until it stops and also listen to hear the safety catch drop into place. But, having operated a number of pieces of equipment with hydraulics, it is recommended to relax the hydraulics to relieve pressure from the system. I think there is no harm in backing off the top to rest on the safety catch. That position should be very close to full up if everything is adjusted and working properly. It could extent the life of the seals in the system.

Does anyone care to discuss this?

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Great Wife, Joyce
2010 2310H Hi-Lo
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Here's what MY HiLo manual says about raising the top (after you hear the safety lock engage):

To make sure safety bar is locked, depress switch to down position. If the top section does not lower, this indicates that the safety bar is in locked position. Once you have ascertained that the safety bar is locked, lift telescoping switch to pressurize hydraulic cylinder. If the safety bar does not lock, refer to (section 7.9.3).

I've bolded the part where I believe HiLO wants you to lift the top OFF the safety bar and leave the system pressurized. I'm guessing maybe the safety bar is not meant to actually support the full weight of the top over long periods but is just there as a safety device?

I know I don't lower my top onto the safety bar to "relieve pressure" when camping.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T
2005 F150 4x4 KR SCrew

Jack,
Thanks for that info. Although relaxing makes sense it would be best to go with what the manual says. If you take a good look at at the safety catch there isn't a whole lot there to support the weight of the top.

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Great Wife, Joyce
2010 2310H Hi-Lo
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

JackandJanet,

Thanks for the information. We bought our first HiLo in 1983 and since we had never owned one, and absent an owner's manual, the owner 'showed me the ropes'. He said to raise it, then lower it until it locks to relieve the pressure from the system. Since that time when I referred to a manual online, I never bothered to read the raising and lowering, assuming I already knew the proper procedures.

Funny isn't it, how I've done this with [3] HiLo's and didn't have a problem from doing it the wrong way? I suppose that is a tribute to the engineering that went into the design. Old habits are hard to break but I will certainly try and break this one.

Thanks again,

Jerry