Our 2006 Hi-Lo Classic has rotted wood at the bottom of the upper door. It appears the seal around the window has failed allowing water to soak the wood. Has anyone had to remove the window and seperate the interior and exterior panels?
Thanks for any help I can get on this one.

Had to do this on my 97 towlite door, the plastic window frame was cracked. Any rv parts house will have a replacement plastic window frame(this is the one part that is standard with other rv's) which is screwed together on the backside, you could use the same glass and replace the gasket material with a higher grade gasket from a home improvement center.
The upper door is put together with a alumium frame screwed around wood, you should be able to take the door off the hindges by removing the screws,remove the window with the door on a flat surface and then remove the alumium frame off the rotted wood. Save the inter & outer skins.These were glued to the wood, so you'll have to pry them apart and smooth with a scraper and sand paper before putting it back together with new wood. Basicly rebuilding the door.

__________________
Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

We had to rebuild our top half of the trailer door. As camp the west coast said just tear the door apart and you will see how to rebuild it.

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking of using styrfoam in place of the wood. With the movement seals around windows can fail, styrfoam may be a better option. Has anybody done this?

See my earlier post, http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f13/...952/#post17671.

__________________
Raul

2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab

LYB (like your build)

__________________
Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

I like the description of Norton Riders rebuild. I wouldn't use just Styrofoam. Wood can be treated so it doesn't rot. Our door rebuilds are better than the original.

I used wood for the frame and styrofoam for rigidity and insulation. Believe me, the door was much stronger than it ever was when I was done.

__________________
Raul

2408T
2010 Nissan Frontier, 4x4, Crew Cab

The door is DONE! Purchased a piece of Filon panel from a local RV dealer and replaced the alum. inside panel with oak wood look Formica. Used pressure treated wood in the frame and new high compression foam panels in the center. Used 3M double-sided outdoor tape to seal the window into the exterior plastic window frame to keep water from getting back in there again. The door will probable outlast the rest of the trailer. Thanks for all of your suggestions and comments.
This really is a GREAT! site

Sounds like you did a very good job with your repair. I'm sure others will benefit from your repair description. It has been several years since our door rebuild and it has held up very well.

Old thread, how thick is the wood? from.my measurements it seems to be 1 inch & a quarter.. so not sure what size wood to buy. figured have to piece a couple pieces together. I do not plan to put the window back in mine. it be one less spot to leak from. the top portion of mine is terrible shape. the door latch feels like about fall out.

can these latches be re keyed at a lock smith it be nice to have a key for mine

__________________
Camper is 1980 Hi Lo

I would Frame it with 1x1 sticks fill it with foam board. Cover with aluminum ( or painted paneling) on the outside and wood paneling on the inside.

Dh put the window back in our door and we have not had leaks in a number of years. Call a lock smith place and your question will be answered. Sounds like you could easily remove the lock when you are repairing your door and take it in for repairs/key. Your door will be much sturdier than original after your repairs.

Any lumber that is labelled as 2xWhatever is going to be 1.5" thick - you can just rip what you need from a 2x4.

Thanks, I do not know how door latch are on new campers but mine has 2 screws that hold it to the door you remove those and the inside part slides off then the outer part slides out..
My mom just asked today why don't I just buy a new half of a door. Not even sure you could find one and sure they be driffrent size then mine being it's 37 yrs old

Foam would be light but not very secure I wouldn't think. I need just get some wood and start making a new one.

Epower, I'm sure that as soon as you remove the skin of the door, you'll see how easy it will be to reconstruct. I've had very good luck with foam insulation on horizontal (flat) applications. Build the door and face the outside, then fill the inside with expanding foam, let it dry completely and shave it smooth with an old fashion hand saw. Then put the second side on. Not only is it more ridged, it also acts as a strong glue, holding ALL parts together. They're doing that in attic roofs now to hold everything tight together rafters to plywood etc.
Tree

__________________
Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC

Thanks, I can kinda see what your saying. I wonder if just a outside frame with wood and braces where the latch goes then fill with foam

What Treeclimer said. You will easily be able to figure out what you need to do when you deconstruct your door. I seriously doubt you could find a new door for a trailer of your vintage. The price would knock your socks off. DH has had to do this repair.