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Old 06-23-2014, 11:55 AM   #1
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Default Potable water tank questions

1. Can anyone tell me what storage capacity on the 1993 22L?

2. As I began to fill with water, I get to a certain point and water begins to flow from the door side/front. I get down and see that it appears to be an overflow line. Was this standard?

3. Does the pressure pump remain "on" at all times and it turns itself off when it has done its do or do I need to manually turn it "on" when water is needed in the trailer?r

These seem simple enough, but I am having 2nd thoughts and have not found anything in the paper work that came with the purchase. Any help will clear and old man's consternation on what is right and what is wrong.

Thanks
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:08 PM   #2
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I can't help you with the storage capacity, but:

2. The "overflow" you are seeing is what I have when I manually fill my fresh water tank with a hose. If I want to get it as full as possible, I cut back on the flow rate as it begins to overflow to minimize "splashing out".

3. My pressure pump is "pressure activated". It shuts off when the downstream pressure reaches a certain limit. If I open a faucet, the pump starts up very quickly to supply the demand. If you find the pump is cycling on and off frequently, you probably have a leak that needs to be fixed. My pump will cycle on briefly (about 3 sec) over night about two times if it is turned on. I consider this pressure drop to be "normal". You don't use the pump though if you are connected to a "shore supply" of water that is under it's own pressure. Of course that water does not fill the fresh tank, but it DOES fill the hot water tank.

Hope this helps.

- Jack
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Old 06-23-2014, 02:09 PM   #3
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You may want to check the brochures and manuals in this forum to see if you find one that lists your tank capacity.

As far as overflow, all tanks have a vent line that terminates into a vent fitting on the outside of the trailer. In some cases the vent fitting is integral to the filler neck; in other cases it is separate. Sometimes the level of a separate vent outlet is below the filler level. In that case, overflow will come out of the vent when the tank is full. This is normal.

The water pump has a pressure switch. When the pump switch is turned on, power goes to the pump and the built-in pressure switch. Opening faucets will cause a pressure drop in the water lines and this will trigger the switch to turn the pump on. When the faucets are closed the pump will run for a bit until the pressure builds up again. At this point the pressure switch will turn it off.

A constantly running pump may be the result of air in the lines, a bad pressure switch, or a water leak. Air in the lines is most common. Usually opening all the faucets for a bit will purge the air from the system.
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:32 PM   #4
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Default Here is what I have found so far

1. brochures give 41 gallons for holding tank, but does not list separate fresh water tank capacity.

2. My pump, left on, shuts off and then will kick on when I run some water.

3. Maybe I was trying to fill it to quickly. However, my gauges when showing full still has the overflow running outside. I will continue to try and see "why" this overflow appears to start long before I have a full tank of fresh water. I have looked under the front couch where the pump is located. No leaks nor do I hear any air escaping. I am thinking since this hasn't been used on this trailer for some time; maybe it just needs to be filled/emptied/filled/emptied a few times to get everything is sync? Just a thought.

4. Any suggestions are appreciated!
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:00 PM   #5
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Also, don't forget to sanitize the fresh water tank before you use it. The procedure is in the owners manual.
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Old 06-23-2014, 05:24 PM   #6
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Default Why would the potable water drain itself empty through drain?

I fill the tank up according to gauges and water running out of the fill up tube. Tank drains itself empty back through the drain to the outside, doorside, drain?????? Why?? I don't get it. Could there be a valve for winterizing that is open somewhere???Help.
I have sent this question to J & R by email. Hope to get to someone who has experienced this phenomenon before.
As with all my other issues, I suspect (before anyone says it) that it is operator error. Oh, how I wish Murphy would move to someone else's abode.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdmeister View Post
I fill the tank up according to gauges and water running out of the fill up tube. Tank drains itself empty back through the drain to the outside, doorside, drain?????? Why?? I don't get it. Could there be a valve for winterizing that is open somewhere???Help.
I have sent this question to J & R by email. Hope to get to someone who has experienced this phenomenon before.
As with all my other issues, I suspect (before anyone says it) that it is operator error. Oh, how I wish Murphy would move to someone else's abode.
OK, now I understand.

First of all, the gauges tend to be a bit unreliable; so don't go by them to judge when the tank is full. If you want a full tank, fill it until it runs out of the vent or the filler and you are set.

The tanks have a drain underneath. Usually it consists of a short length of hose attached to a nipple on the bottom of the tank. The hose runs to the side of the trailer where it connects to a valve. Look for the hose and valve. If they are not present, the valve and/or hose may have slipped and fallen off. Here are a couple of photos. Neither one is a Hi-Lo, but you get the idea:

http://airstreamlife.com/historysafa...k-close-up.jpg
http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/...pse10a04fb.jpg

If the above checks out, the water could be coming from is the water heater drain. Find the water heater access door and open it. The heater should have a drain plug or drain valve at the bottom.

The last possibilities are a broken water line, broken water line fitting, or loose water line fitting. Usually any of these are easy to fix.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:21 PM   #8
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Default Bingo!!!!! Happy days are here again!

That is it!!!
Thanks Raul, The picture made the difference for me.
What I have is the valve minus the "innards". I could put my finger on the bottom and water would come out the top. I could put my finders on both and it stopped. I am so embarrassed now. It never dawned on me that this was a valve with the insides gone. I think I was worried it might be more serious. I will go tomorrow and try and purchase said culprit. I shall let you all know how it works out. Thanks for all the help.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdmeister View Post
That is it!!!
Thanks Raul, The picture made the difference for me.
What I have is the valve minus the "innards". I could put my finger on the bottom and water would come out the top. I could put my finders on both and it stopped. I am so embarrassed now. It never dawned on me that this was a valve with the insides gone. I think I was worried it might be more serious. I will go tomorrow and try and purchase said culprit. I shall let you all know how it works out. Thanks for all the help.
I see! I see!

I've found this valve in the RV section at ACE hardware. I had to replace mine when the "handle" broke off. It was somewhat tricky to attach the hose, and I think I used an ordinary automotive hose clamp to do it. (Like the clamps in the second link Raul posted.)

But this comment: My pump, left on, shuts off and then will kick on when I run some water. is the way the pump SHOULD work, if I'm reading what you wrote correctly. When you open a faucet in the trailer, it reduces the downstream pressure in the lines, which activates the pump to restore that pressure (or pump water out of the faucet). Once the pressure builds back up, the pump should shut off. If you open a faucet to a small trickle, the pump should cycle, on and off as long as it is open that way.

- Jack
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:48 PM   #10
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You can find that drain cock at Home Depot in the plumbing dept. has the little drawers and small fittings. Take the remains of you old one with you to match up the tubing size. It looks like this:3/8 ? 1/2 Inch Barb Drain - Valterra A01-2025VP - Fresh Water Pump Accessories - Camping World
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #11
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Default Everyone take a bow!

I am telling ya'll. You have led the wayward RV person back into the fold. I truly just thought this was part of an overflow set up when I looked at it! I was lost, but now I am found!
Now if Murphy has moved his residence elsewhere, maybe the old shall come off easy and the new one shall go on easily...................nah probably not !
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdmeister View Post
I am telling ya'll. You have led the wayward RV person back into the fold. I truly just thought this was part of an overflow set up when I looked at it! I was lost, but now I am found!
Now if Murphy has moved his residence elsewhere, maybe the old shall come off easy and the new one shall go on easily...................nah probably not !
When I worked in my friend's hardware store I always told everyone with a plumbing problem that it takes three trips to the store to solve the problem. Plan on replacing the line from the tank to the valve, and use a tender touch removing the tubing from the tank. The plastic gets very brittle over time and can break easily.
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:42 AM   #13
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Default Repair (s) complete!

potable water and every thing works fine. Thanks for all the help.
Also, got the "porch" light up and working!
Waiting to get a new regulator in fro the propane place. The one I had was leaking back through the wheel that you turn to designate which tank you are using from. I figured that I could just replace a diaphragm or something, but the fellow said as old as that regulator (93) was I just should be safe and buy new. When that comes in and I get it in place, I think we will be good to go for the Colorado trip on July 2.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #14
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Cool! Are you having fun yet?

I found getting my trailer "improved" to the state it SHOULD have been in when I bought it new, intensely satisfying.

- Jack
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrdmeister View Post
I am telling ya'll. You have led the wayward RV person back into the fold. I truly just thought this was part of an overflow set up when I looked at it! I was lost, but now I am found!
Now if Murphy has moved his residence elsewhere, maybe the old shall come off easy and the new one shall go on easily...................nah probably not !
Aren't these type of forums great? I regularly go into this forum and the one for my boat. On occasion I go to the forum for my car and truck. Just yesterday I had a small issue with the air filter housings on my boat engines (Cummins Diesels). I asked for ideas in the Bayliner Owners Club Forum and got two great suggestions.

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Old 06-24-2014, 01:24 PM   #16
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Default Forum is life saver

Yes!!!! The forum is great and humbling (hahahahaha)
My Dad always said, "there are always people smarter than you think you are!"
Ain't it so!
I am enjoying working on the trailer. I certainly don't want to outrun my coverage however. Some things I am not sure I would even think about attempting. At some point, I would love to drag this thing to Ohio and get some professional work done on it. Things I don't feel competent to do. In the mean time I shall keep doing the things I think I can do (along with everyone's help here on the forum!!!!!!!!)
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