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Old 07-05-2017, 02:58 PM   #21
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If the guy who sold it was able to show him how it worked by connecting a battery-----then what happened between then and when he got it home? Or am I missing something?

i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:30 PM   #22
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i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick
Neither my 2176B nor 2600TFB has a Master Switch like those having been discussed. There is an on/Off Switch on the 2600TFB, But NO intermediate Stop for just the Pump, even though the Manual says it does! On the 2176B the only Switch is at the Breaker Box.
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:32 PM   #23
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If the guy who sold it was able to show him how it worked by connecting a battery-----then what happened between then and when he got it home? Or am I missing something?

i'm also not buying that there is no master switch. But- if it was off I dont know why he could hear the solenoid engaging.

Rick
Some older HiLos did not have master switches and old owners may have modified the electrical hookup. As far as what happened between the previous owner raising the top and Naomi getting it home, the HiLo may have been sitting for a long period and the towing it home may have loosened a connection from viberation. The fact that Naomi can hear a clicking of the solenoid shows that some voltage is getting thru.
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Old 07-05-2017, 06:40 PM   #24
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Jim,- My Old 2176B is connected just as yours. The Positive Cable goes directly to the Pump and all other Power is directed from that point. As I recall (haven't refreshed my memory by looking again) the ground connects to the solenoid or top of the Pump.{?}
On my HiLo the battery ground cable goes directly to the frame not to the pump. The pump is grounded either thru the mounting bolts to the frame or a ground strap to the frame. Cannot remember. My HiLo is parked under a low shed so cannot just go raise it, have to hookup and pull it out.
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:24 PM   #25
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Default Master switch

Our 1990 Classic doesn't have a master switch. It only has a toggle switch to lift the HiLo up,off or down. DH has had to replace the switch.
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:54 PM   #26
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"Our 1990 Classic doesn't have a master switch. It only has a toggle switch to lift the HiLo up,off or down. DH has had to replace the switch."

"Some older HiLos did not have master switches and old owners may have modified the electrical hookup."

Well....I happily stand corrected ! And, therefore, I am throwing my weight behind the bad-ground connection. That seems to make sense. Actually- I couldn't raise mine up this spring after pulling it down the road two miles. Bad connection on the positive terminal, maybe. I also had a lose connection at the toggle switch. Hard to say which one was the culprit.

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Old 07-06-2017, 07:42 AM   #27
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The clicking sound can sometimes indicate a bad or faulty solenoid when 12v is getting to solenoid, causing it to engage making the clicking sound. But if the solenoid is faulty, the 12v may not be relayed to the starter motor. This failure is often intermittent which may explain it working once then not later. A simple test with a multi meter to determine if 12v are getting to the starter motor when the switch is activated would help to isolate the problem.
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Old 07-06-2017, 03:11 PM   #28
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Update: sorry I have been slow to respond. My mother is in the hospital. I am going to read the posts and replies this weekend. I can't believe how much info I have already gotten. I was able to raise the trailer or my brother was. He gave the battery a jump! I bought the battery from Walmart. It may have set on the shelf to long. The battery is still not working and I traded it out, by the way Walmart does not let you trade out a battery that has been hooked up even for a second. I plan to charge the battery this weekend to see if it can stand on its own. Thank all of you. This site helped me hold it together, I wanted to take my mom to the beach if she gets on her feet. Felt stuck because I have no idea what I am doing.
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Old 07-06-2017, 05:54 PM   #29
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Naomi; Charge that battery up for 24 to 30 hours, then remove the charger for 5 or 6 hours and take the battery to one of the name brand auto parts store and they will check it, for free under a load test and will tell you if it is good. You don't have to take the battery into the store. This is the best test you can do on a battery and not a test most of us can do at home. That low battery was not putting out enough voltage under the load to hold the solenoid in and turn the pump motor. Glad you got it up.
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Old 07-06-2017, 06:13 PM   #30
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Naomi, I'm delighted to hear you got the top up too! Good on you, and I'm sorry to hear about the faulty battery. I didn't know Walmart would not let you exchange a new battery that doesn't work for one that does. That seems very poor customer service to me. Doesn't a Walmart battery come with any warranty?

Jim has again given you excellent advice regarding the "goodness" of the charge on your battery. If you don't have a charger, the shore power converter in the trailer should charge your battery if you plug it in to a wall plug with the battery connected to the trailer.

Regarding shore power at home, it will charge the battery and should operate the refrigerator, but it WILL NOT power the trailer's Air Conditioner - that device needs a 30Amp supply.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions! We have lots more confusing advice to give!

- Jack
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