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Old 08-31-2012, 10:29 PM   #11
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Default cabinet repair

This poor workmanship is exactly why HiLo is out of business. Can't always blame the workers. The standard comes from the engineers/management. I have seen another members HiLo with the inferior paneling/bumps. The bumps must have showed up after the warranty ran out or HiLo went out of business. Hi Lo always wanted top doller for the trailers. The way I understood the paneling issue is that the vinyl panels were bought in China. sp dollar. Clearly defective. Lack of quality control. We had a light in our trailer that didn't work for 22yrs. The wire was in the wrong bundle inside of the cabinet.

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Old 09-01-2012, 10:54 AM   #12
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Post a picture of the "after" please when your done. Good luck poprichie, hopefully you don't have a leak also.

Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:29 PM   #13
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Default Cabinet Removal


I am watching with great interest as you are trying to get the cabinets out. I will have the same thing confronting me just as soon as it cools down some and I can get into the trailer. Like you, I searched and searched for the cabinet mounting screws and they are just not there! Our problem is/will be compounded for the motor for the tilt-out is located in the center of the cabinet and that will be something else to figure out. As I understand it, there was no advantage gained by removing the bottom? My thought was that the cabinet was somehow bolted to the aluminum wall studding.

When I removed the ceiling inside one end of the cabinets and after tearing away the ceiling, there was a thick section of Styrofoam between it and the roof decking. Is that the way yours is? If I recall the Styrofoam was about an inch to 1-1/2 thick so that it would take a very long screw to penetrate it and get to the roof decking. Just curious to know if you find/have found any screw attachment to the roof decking.

The pictures you have posted are difficult to put into perspective. Once you have the cabinet removed, could you back off a little as the close-ups make it difficult to see where you are removing screws, staples, etc.? When you get some time, I would appreciate a clarification of where the mounting screws are located with pics if possible. Also, did you have to take off the end caps of the cabinets and if so, how are they attached? Ours are covered with cloth and I could feel no screws, nails, or staples through the fabric. Since it is not up against the wall on either end, I am thinking the end cap removal might make the cabinet removal easier [?].

I apologize for all the questions but your experience in removing should benefit a lot of us who will have to do the same removal so we can tear out and replace new ceiling tiles. Please keep us updated with your progress. Thanks and good luck.

Jerry Curtis
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:01 PM   #14
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I planed on repairing the cabinet with it up, looked easy till I got my head in there and then tried to get my arms and hands in, after about 3 hours, I gave up on that idea and realized that to do a proper repair the cabinet had to come out. Was so frustrated because I discover that there is some water damage at the top of the wall door side and I don't know where it is coming from, point is I didn't take any pics of the cabinet removal, as soon as I get settled down, I will take pics of the cabinet and explain how to remove.
On another note I would not try to screw up to the top roof panel as I don't think it is very thick and a slight misjudgement in screw length and it would go thru the roof. I am guessing at 3/8 s panel as I just put a solar panel on the trailer, it originally had one or they marked the holes and the wire hole and then caulked them in. I opened the wire hole up some and the panel wasn't very thick, could have measured it but didn't think too.
Anyway pics coming. Here they are. First pic is of the end of the cabinet, yours is covered with cloth. Second pic is of the inside,showing the back top panel of the hollow bottom.
3rd pic is showing the panel removed, I removed the staples close to the wall and then pulled the panel up, wall side and the staples pulled right out of the front. Last pic shows one the screws that have to be removed from the wall, they are inside the hollow bottom. The screws that are screwed to the roof are inside the top of the doors just open to see.
If I can help more just ask.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cabinet.jpg (93.4 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Cabinet 007.jpg (91.7 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg Cabinet 008.jpg (91.6 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Cabinet 009.jpg (92.3 KB, 34 views)
(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
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Old 09-01-2012, 02:04 PM   #15
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Default cabinet removal

Don't know if this will help. Remove the window under /around your cabinet. With the window removed you will be able to see the layers of your wall. This should help you determine the extent of your wall dammage/delamination. Thanks for sharing your story/problem as it will help others. If you remove your entire cabinet put your sheet/bottom back in before you mount to the wall. Forgot this step when we did our restoration. Gee,how could we forget this five months after the start of our restoration!!
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:22 PM   #16
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Hi all, I'm having the same problem that you had years ago in removing the upper cabinets, I haven't gotten to the lower yet and I am unsure how to post pictures on here, tells me to copy my URL but I don't have a URL for a picture. Any input? It's been years since you guys are posted so I don't know if you'll even get this but hopefully you do and you can give advice to a newbie! Thank you in advance, Karmen

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