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Towing, Hitching and Tow Vehicles Discussions about tow vehicles, tow systems, hitching, leveling, jacks and more.
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:47 PM   #1
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Default Breakaway Cable

I'm a little confused on the breakaway cable. How do ya'll attach it? The previous owner has it wrapped through the links of one of the safety chains. Not sure how he actually attached it to the TV.

Also, is it a good idea to test the switch before each trip? What is the best way to test it?

Thanks,
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:57 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Luckydog671 View Post
I'm a little confused on the breakaway cable. How do ya'll attach it? The previous owner has it wrapped through the links of one of the safety chains. Not sure how he actually attached it to the TV.

Also, is it a good idea to test the switch before each trip? What is the best way to test it?

Thanks,
I hook mine up to the hitch pin that goes through the receiver. As long as it's connected where it will do its job.... Best way to test it is to pull the plunger out and try to drive forward a bit. The brakes should be locked. Make sure you put the plunger back in because it will draw down your battery. I check mine every time I hook up. Never can be too safe.
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:40 PM   #3
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Well, I went out and tried to test it. I couldn't do a proper test because the trailer isn't hooked up but was thinking I would at least hear a buzz from the electric brakes. The pin was in there pretty tight- you really need a good tug to get it out! I didn't hear any buzz from the brakes so not sure what that means. The switch is powered off the house batteries, are they not?

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Old 06-10-2014, 03:57 PM   #4
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Powered by the trailer battery.
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Old 06-10-2014, 05:24 PM   #5
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Powered by the trailer battery.
That's what I thought.

When I plug the trailer into the TV and apply the vehicle brakes, I can hear a buzz from the trailer brakes. I guess that's what I was expecting to hear when I pulled the pin out from the breakaway switch but didn't. However, I put a voltmeter on the trailer batteries before and after pulling the pin and noticed a voltage drop after pulling the pin out so something changed.

Guess I just need to hitch her up and do a real test!

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Old 06-11-2014, 07:05 AM   #6
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Do not pull that pin with the brake controller hooked up or there is a good possibility you will be buying a new controller!!
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Old 06-11-2014, 12:45 PM   #7
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Do not pull that pin with the brake controller hooked up or there is a good possibility you will be buying a new controller!!
Hi Gary,

Interesting! When I pulled out the pin (several times) the trailer power cord was not plugged into the TV so there should be no possibility of affecting the brake controller.

I'm a newbie doing the towing thing - why would pulling out the pin (if hooked up) affect the brake controller?

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Old 06-11-2014, 05:17 PM   #8
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It can send power from the trailer battery back through the brake wire to the controller and that's not good.
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:32 PM   #9
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It can send power from the trailer battery back through the brake wire to the controller and that's not good.
So when testing the switch I should not have the trailer cord plugged into the TV. Better add that to my evolving checklist!

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Old 06-11-2014, 07:19 PM   #10
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So when testing the switch I should not have the trailer cord plugged into the TV. Better add that to my evolving checklist!

Thanks,
That's for sure. I think if they would put a diode in the brake wire that wouldn't happen.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:58 PM   #11
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...but a diode will lower the voltage another .7 volts; the last thing I would want.

My opinion...bad design if any of these controllers are not optically isolated from damage. Shame on them.

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Old 06-15-2014, 02:43 PM   #12
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Default Testing electric brakes

Buzzing in trailer brakes is probably due to brake controller chopping up the DC supply so brake power can be varied by the accelerometer in the controller.

Application of brakes by emergency breakaway switch should supply full DC power from the trailers power or a separate battery for breaks only. You may hear only a single clicking noise when testing.

You want to attach it to the tow vehicle as near to the center of the vehicles rear as possible and to a part that could not accidently come loose or be pulled out like the receiver pin or safety chains and then fail to activate or accidently activate.

By keeping it centered it is less likely to be accidently pulled out by taking a sharp corner, backing up, roadway trash or coming in contact with the road surface
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:25 PM   #13
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Buzzing in trailer brakes is probably due to brake controller chopping up the DC supply so brake power can be varied by the accelerometer in the controller.

Application of brakes by emergency breakaway switch should supply full DC power from the trailers power or a separate battery for breaks only. You may hear only a single clicking noise when testing.

You want to attach it to the tow vehicle as near to the center of the vehicles rear as possible and to a part that could not accidently come loose or be pulled out like the receiver pin or safety chains and then fail to activate or accidently activate.

By keeping it centered it is less likely to be accidently pulled out by taking a sharp corner, backing up, roadway trash or coming in contact with the road surface
Good info- thanks!
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Old 06-15-2014, 04:48 PM   #14
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...but a diode will lower the voltage another .7 volts; the last thing I would want.

My opinion...bad design if any of these controllers are not optically isolated from damage. Shame on them.

Rick
Good thought
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