In my blissful ignorance, hauling boats back and forth to the lake on weekends, occasionally helping a friend move by towing a U-Haul, or otherwise finding an occasional use for the Reese receiver on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma XtraCab, I simply didn't give much thought to anything more than the size of the hitch ball and whether or not a 2-inch drop was enough to keep the tail from dragging the ground when I hooked it up to my 4WD truck.

Last October, I obtained a thoroughly used HI-LO for the mere price of hauling it away, so I jumped on it, hooked it up to my truck, and dragged that puppy home - about 250 miles. Most of the trip was up I-85 at around 70mph. To my pleasant surprise, I didn't have any problems with swaying or buffeting and the V6 did a good job on the inclines. Closer to home, I had to make a hard stop for a quick-yellow light and made a mental note that I should probably spend a few bucks on the electric brake control if I decided to keep it. It's not that it nose-dived or caused my truck to sway - it just took a lot foot on the brake and a little more asphalt to get the whole thing to a full and complete stop than I was comfortable with. Aside from that, it all came off without a hitch http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/images/smilies/wink.gif

Anyways, I have a couple of extra pieces left over that I now know to be parts of a weight distribution hitch. I don't think I need a W/D hitch, do I? Unless someone can convince me that I do, I have a couple of extra pieces that need a good home. They're heavy, so shipping cost would probably be high, but if anyone wants these, pay me a few bucks for my gas and the shipping and they're yours.

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Hi Mike,

Recommend that you hang onto those WD parts until after you've hitched up with both your truck (loaded and with a full gas tank), and the trailer fully loaded with full tanks. Then see how much the hitch and rear of your truck are dipping, and how much higher the front of your truck sits. At that point I think you find those WD bars useful. A WD hitch system isn't meant to prevent fishtailing. Its supposed to spread the weight on the hitch equally between the tow vehicle and trailer... to level out everything.

Many trailers will set and tow just fine when everything is empty and light. A WD hitch really makes the difference when everything is heavy. Its especially important, for braking and steering control, to keep the tow vehicle (TV) level... and keeping the weight on those front wheels/tires. About 2/3's of your TV's braking power is designed into the front wheels... take the weight off them by having a heavy hitch weight (without WD bars), and the entire dynamic changes, and becomes dangerously unsafe.

Jim

__________________
1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969)
1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011)
2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present)
2015 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

Mike, Pug is looking for reese parts.

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2016 Toyota tacoma TRD sport
Classic 2693 RD
Luke 1:49

JM doering is 5000% right that you need to keep and use the weight distributing bars. He gets an Aplus for his description. Keep in mind that he is a very experienced tower and has loged many miles. We just want you to be safe.

Hi Sam,

Thanks for the nice words!

Jim

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1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969)
1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011)
2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present)
2015 Chevy Tahoe LTZ

Do yourself a favor and do the the WD hitch. You will be glad you did. You didn't say what model or size your Hi-Lo is but I know towing with the Tacoma is much better with WD even with a small trailer.

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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU

Once again, thanks to everyone for your quick and expert assistance. I'll keep the bars for now and start looking into the price of the W/D ballmount.

But, just another general question from someone who is totally ignorant when it comes to W/D hitches... with the variable weight of the freshwater tank and two propane tanks at the front end of the trailer, and waste water tanks at the opposite end in the rear, and the varying weight of gas in the truck, and the possibility of carrying one or two passengers, not to mention several days worth of gear and groceries, how do you ever figure out what is the "right" balance for your W/D hitch?

In my humble opinion there is a "desired" optimum for the WD hitch setting but but there is a lot of leeway either way.

The WD links the truck frame and the trailer frame into a semi-rigid unit, thus allowing the springs of both to work in unison. The intention is to keep the TV and the trailer from bobbing sporadically and reducing the drivers ability to control the vehicles.

Personally, I wait until the TV and trailer are loaded and on "level ground" and check to see that the torsion bars are "nearly" parallel to the U channels of the trailer hitch. Too tight and they will lift the hitch and too loose the hitch will sag.

Like Goldie Locks, some where in between is JUST RIGHT for me!

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John

2007-22T TowLite 50th Anniversary
2008 Nissan Frontier SE 4X4 Crew Cab, Snug Top

Look on the internet for some articles that will explain and hopefully show you how to set up your wd hitch. It took us several years to realize we needed to use wd hitch. You are way aheaD OF US ON THIS. Perhaps when you are loaded up for an Rv trip you can pull into an Rv place and they will help you determine if you are properly hooked up. If it close to your house tell them you will buy parts from their store when needed. I know my Rv dealer would do this for free. Ask for the parts person to give you his business card and the hrs. of the store. I Hope this helps.