Skid wheels - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

Antares · 07-08-2011, 05:27 PM

Since my older camper rides so low to the ground, I'd like to protect critical areas when a metal-scraping occurrence will happen. I've already bumped the hitch shank once backing out of the neighbors driveway (while unloaded) and this past weekend the skid plate around the sewer pipe drug on the ground a bit as we pulled out of our steep-ish campsite. Later this year we will be going on a trip that will involve pulling up a ramp to board a ferry that I am positive I will bottom out on both ends of.

Has anyone used skid wheels on the hitch and/or the rear of the frame? Any suggestions for putting these on?

JackandJanet · 07-08-2011, 07:17 PM

No suggestions at all. But, I've thought something like this might be good to protect those areas in my trailer too. When it was towed up on to a flatbed (my axle fiasco), the sewer valve hit the ground and cracked. Fortunately, there was nothing in the black tank but a small amount of sanitizer that I had put in prior to the (aborted) trip.

- Jack

JackandJanet · 07-08-2011, 09:39 PM

The OEM configuration in Hi-Los puts the drain valves at risk. The design really gives very little clearance between the valves and the ground. When I had my axle moved forward, I also had the body raised 1 1/2 inches, on the advice of the technician that did the axle work. Not only has this given me more ground clearance, but it's allowed me to install the next larger size tires, giving about 1/2 " more clearance above that and more importantly, a much higher load carrying capacity.

I had a problem slightly dragging the front jack pulling into the camp space in Yosemite last year (a steep incline off the road and still with the old tires) so this gives you an idea how low to the road these trailers are. I would not have gotten it up in the OEM configuration at all.

- Jack

Antares · 07-09-2011, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

The OEM configuration in Hi-Los puts the drain valves at risk. The design really gives very little clearance between the valves and the ground. When I had my axle moved forward, I also had the body raised 1 1/2 inches, on the advice of the technician that did the axle work. Not only has this given me more ground clearance, but it's allowed me to install the next larger size tires, giving about 1/2 " more clearance above that and more importantly, a much higher load carrying capacity.

I had a problem slightly dragging the front jack pulling into the camp space in Yosemite last year (a steep incline off the road and still with the old tires) so this gives you an idea how low to the road these trailers are. I would not have gotten it up in the OEM configuration at all.

- Jack

How much did it cost to have your lift done if you don't mind me asking?

This seems to be the best option to me since I can use a shorter shank at that point as well. I just feel that skid wheels might be a cheaper option.

RichR · 07-09-2011, 08:21 AM

You may want to check this older thread:http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f26/jacked-up-hilo-241/

DaveL, Joyce's cousin, posted on how he raised his Hi-Lo by three inches, which worked out very well.

JackandJanet · 07-09-2011, 09:48 AM

I just looked at the link Rich posted and realized I posted in that thread too. As I recall, the cost to move the torsion axle forward and put in a "spacer" (which raised the trailer) was in the neighborhood of $400. It was done at Arizona Spring here in Tucson and when I took the trailer in they had an Oro Valley firetruck there for suspension work. Those trucks are often called out on primitive roads to fight fires, so they take a beating. Knowing this place maintained firetrucks gave me a lot of faith in their ability.

As you might guess, I've been very pleased with the resulting configuration.

- Jack

robobd · 07-09-2011, 12:33 PM

Hi, has anyone used spacer blocks, say between 1 1/2 inches and 4 inches to lift their hi-los and is it safe?