90HiLo Classic restoration - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

sam · 09-28-2011, 09:06 PM

Need some advice. We have ripped out walls but have left the styrofoam in. Should we replace styrofoam that is black and wet? Or just let it dry out.?Is there a spray that kills mold. So far I have used Minwax Early American stain on both sides of the 1/8 underlay. The stain is oil base. It stains seals and protects. Next I was going to spray on Thompsons water seal to both sides of the underlay. Hubby raised a question about weather the liquid nails would stick onto the Thompsons properly for the new 1/8 Georgia pacific paneling. Not all the styrofoam is wet. My daughter promised she would post pictures tomorrow. We figured out how to take the big cupboard out above the dinette. I ended up ripping out quite a bit of the old wallpaper as it had lost the majority of the glue and was 21 yrs. old and brittle. I appreciate any and all advice from others that have done restoration.

RCREYES · 09-29-2011, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam

Need some advice. We have ripped out walls but have left the styrofoam in. Should we replace styrofoam that is black and wet? Or just let it dry out.?Is there a spray that kills mold. So far I have used Minwax Early American stain on both sides of the 1/8 underlay. The stain is oil base. It stains seals and protects. Next I was going to spray on Thompsons water seal to both sides of the underlay. Hubby raised a question about weather the liquid nails would stick onto the Thompsons properly for the new 1/8 Georgia pacific paneling. Not all the styrofoam is wet. My daughter promised she would post pictures tomorrow. We figured out how to take the big cupboard out above the dinette. I ended up ripping out quite a bit of the old wallpaper as it had lost the majority of the glue and was 21 yrs. old and brittle. I appreciate any and all advice from others that have done restoration.

I say you should replace the styrofoam being that it is a porous material. Here's a decent link on mold in trailers. Hope it helps.

How Can I Kill Mold Inside Trailer Walls? | eHow.com

sam · 09-29-2011, 10:27 PM

I know that mold is not good and the styrofoam should be removed. I just need to convince my husband of this. The styrofoam is tight to the fiberglass skin. All three layers were laminated together. The styrofoam has gouges from scraping the 1/8 underlay off. We had a busy day and I didn't get toask my daughter to post the pictures. We went to get tires for our f250 and had to get them ordered in. Dunn Iire should have them in by mid day Tuesday. I keeping asking these questions and not getting answers. Would Thompsons clear water seal be able to adhere to liquid nails on the 1/8 underlay.? How do you get the last pieces of soggy paneling/underlay that is stuck between the halves? Jack up tyhe top? or would changing the bad seal give me a way to clean out the last of the soggy mess? Just trying to do this repair correctly. Any advice appreciated.

sam · 09-30-2011, 02:31 PM

Here are the pictures I took with my daughter's camera.I'm not good with most electronic devices,so the pictures are a bit crooked.

sam · 09-30-2011, 02:37 PM

I couldn't upload all the pictures I took in one post.

sam · 09-30-2011, 02:45 PM

1st. set of pictures #3 shows how to remove the trim ring from the inside of the window. #5 shows where the Lexell caulk was applied above the trim on the upper half. This is where we think we got all our water intrusion.

sam · 09-30-2011, 11:24 PM

Today 9-30-211 Posted pictures of our restoration in progress Posted under off topic. Looking for answers to several questions. Thanks sam

PopRichie77 · 10-01-2011, 08:18 AM

Sam,
If it was me I would try to replace the Styrofoam, also if you have a dehumidifier, put it in the trailer and run it while doing the repair, or a small heater, anything to get rid of the moisture.

sam · 10-01-2011, 06:29 PM

I agree that the styrofoam should come out. It is defeniately a "Bear"job. Styrofoam is not that expensive. This way we will have all new materials,styrofoam,underlay and paneling. Last night I did a search on google for RV interior wall replacement and am still going through all the sites information. I told hubby that we should run the furnace to speed up the drying process. He thinks we would have to sleep in the trailer to monitor the furnace. Maybe I can sleep over later this week after mytwo MD apts. Oct. 21st is my rotator cuff surgery. I'm hoping to have everything torn out before my surgery.

sam · 10-10-2011, 09:50 PM

Today was a good day as we got to work on our restoration. Forgot to bring the camera with me. Another HI Lo owner that did construction for a living helped us. He has changed the cables on a previous HioLo. We cut 2x4's and placed them at the four corners and used the powerjack to raise the tophalf up more. I was able ro get some more wet underlay and paneling out withmy locking forcepts and a stiff putty knife. I,m hoping the wet area between the upper and lower half will dry out,,,It will be impossible to get all the "junk out." Other areas of the trailer have dried out beautifuly.Hubby took apart the Electrical cover on the outside and repaired the wood frame around the outlet on the inside. Filled the air leaks with expanding foam. This was a source of the water leaking in. He plans on using butyl tape to complete the repair on the outside.

sam · 10-14-2011, 09:41 PM

Stopped at My mother's and said hello to our HiLo..Today it is predicted to be 40 mph wind with gusts of 40 to 50 MPH. Sure don't want to be in the HiLo when it is so windy. Correction 50 to 60mph gusts. Any way has any one ever used externabond tape on other places besides the roof.? I'll check out their website.

sam · 10-22-2011, 10:47 PM

The other day we stopped into a electrical place to get a Leviton 20 amp cover plate and male outlet as one unit. NoLuck,showed us something that would have worked and we would have had to order in the "guts. This unit is on the topoutside(driverside). You pull out the air conditioner cord and plug it into the top electrical box. Then you raise the HILo up. If youforget this step you can stand on a picnic table to reach the plug. The old unit was badly coroded from water intrusion. Called our HiLo dealer and made the ! 1/2 hr trip to get two parts we needed. Electrical part was $20.00. Hubby installed today used plenty of lexell caulk and expanding foam on the inside. Used lexell caulk on the edges of the weather tight box. Will take a picture and post soon.Had to replace the shallow electrical box on air con/upper plug. It felt good to lick this problem. Later we are again going to get rain so he will be able to see if his repair worked. Felt like we turned the corner on our restoration. He had to buy some new screws to reattach the awning arm on the outside. Still not satisfied will try using a small dowel rod as part of the repair. I continue to pick out wet underlay and paneling between the outside wall and the layers on the inside. Will probably sleep in the HiLo with the furnace on in hopes that it will dryout somemore. R&R plenty of radio and good books to reat as I recuperate from my shoulder surgery. We are hoping to finish up before the snow flies. Spent some time on the Externabond website and foundout they make several waterproofing products. Not just for roofs. Can be used in otherplaces and forms to keep the RV dry. Also our HILo dealer has a web site and will ship parts anywhere. They have even shipped a HILo or two to other countries.

DebW · 10-23-2011, 03:06 PM

Sam,
Can you post the website for your Hi-Lo dealer?

sam · 10-23-2011, 11:09 PM

Mantelli Trailer Sales,6865 Transit Rd. Lockport,NY 14094 Phone (716) 625-88. www.mantelli.com Info@mantelli.com Fax (716) 625-8395 Ask for Jay Simon in parts. Steve Brandell is the service manager -very experienced with HiLo. Here is the complete phone # (716) 625-8877.

cav117 · 10-24-2011, 05:17 PM

Sam,

Thanks, for posting everything you have so far on this project. I am planning on doing something similiar to our Hi Lo when the wife and kids move up here.

Are you thinking of upgrading any of the appliances (water heater, furnance fridge) during your restoration?

Hope your doin well.

sam · 10-24-2011, 09:08 PM

Cav117,A few years ago our refrigerator died (original). Our dealer scouted around and found us a new two way ref. Couldn't get a three way for our application. So far the original furnice and original hot water are working. Our dealer put in the ref for us/got a three year warranty. The key is to do all the preventive maintenance on a yearly basis. If you take care of the HiLo it will take care of you. I know I'm not real good at describing our exact methods for repairs. Just want any one that does repairs to have an easier time of it. Today we were able to stop by our Harbor Freight store and picked up another pair of locking forceps,drill bits,cutting blades for the multi tool. The rest of the cupboards ect. in the HiLo are in great shape. We don't have any other repairs that I know of. We saved some of our tear off around the windows to use as a pattern for the new underlay and paneling. My biggest frustration at this point is getting the "junk " between the wall to dry out. I don't think it is a good idea to put in the new wall material when you have wet material under it. The walls are totally dry. We had leaks on the escape window,air conditioner exterior box and bottom exterior trim9top half). Caulk caulk and more lexell caulk. Take out each and every window and reseal. Our trailers are very sturdy and can be repaired. Thanks for letting me know my experience is helpful.

sam · 10-29-2011, 12:46 AM

We ended up doing a total tearout of the wall by our dinette as it was wet with our heavy rain. The last part was a super saturated brown paper that we scraped off. I'm thinking it was a water barrier paper. Does anyone know if it must be replaced? Looked at home depot today and couldn't find any suitable replacement.

RichR · 10-29-2011, 07:25 AM

Did you look at Tyvek Home Wrap? That's the stuff you see on new buildings before the siding goes on. It is an air and moisture barrier. House Construction ? DuPont You may have a hard time finding it in a small quantity. Try tracking down a contractor or someone doing a project, they may have some odds and ends laying around. Or, you could go buy a bunch of those big envelopes made out it.

sam · 10-29-2011, 08:31 PM

Thank for your response on the vapor barrier question. This may be the answer. I will be calling JR to ask him several questions. Just want to do this whole repair correctly.

sam · 10-30-2011, 05:09 PM

Here are the pictures I promised.
SDC10413.jpg I am using my forceps to get out wet underlay/paneling. Black strip is for electrical/shielding? Should the rusted metal be treated in any way before it is enclosed with insulation,underlay or paneling.?

SDC10414.jpgGood to take a PICTURE And do a detailed measured drawing because you won't remember placement four months from now.

SDC10415.jpgHardwear placement wall in good condition. Will just remove window and reseal with butyl tape.

SDC10412.jpgMy hand with gobs of wet brown paper that was next to fiberglass. Need to take a photography class in my spare time LOL!!!!

SDC10416.jpgsm tearout area under window next to pullout sofa-my bed. I think we need to remove styrofoam in any area we remove paneling and underlay.