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Old 03-24-2013, 09:18 PM   #1
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Default Using extra Connector pin for charging battery

Somewhere I saw an article about using 14G wire for adequate amperage to get from alternator to hiLo battery and using a vacant pin for additional charging so refrigerator can run on DC and not pull down the battery. Any help on this idea???? Joe(skyking)
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:21 AM   #2
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I don't think a 14g wire will do what you want. It is too small and will fry and short out
I used a 10g wire with a 30amp fuse to run power to the refrigerator circuit.
Not sure what the amp load is on the frig but it is high and well out of 14g range.
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Old 03-25-2013, 11:31 AM   #3
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I don't think a 14g wire will do what you want. It is too small and will fry and short out
I used a 10g wire with a 30amp fuse to run power to the refrigerator circuit.
Not sure what the amp load is on the frig but it is high and well out of 14g range.
steve
Figure 15amp for the fridge, that's what ours is. I wouldn't go any less than 10 gauge and maybe 8 gauge because of the length required.
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:57 PM   #4
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Figure 15amp for the fridge, that's what ours is. I wouldn't go any less than 10 gauge and maybe 8 gauge because of the length required.
Ran 8 ga with 30 amp breaker from battery to connector and it seems to work fine. Sky king fine. Skyking
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #5
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I'm glad to hear about your successful project! Happy Camping!!
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:34 AM   #6
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I wouldn't leave the line on when the tow vehicle is off, it could drain your battery in 2 to 3 hours, just a thought
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:44 AM   #7
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This is not the first post regarding running a wire for battery charging and I consider all of the info to be good and true.
However I have seen no mention of using a "battery isolator" as the starting point.
I mounted a battery isolator in the engine compartment, then ran a 10G fused, 30amp, wire to a truck bed battery position then extended it to the trlr battery.
Your regulator tells the alternator to produce power, and the isolator, tells it where it is needed. It is in use, only while the TV engine is running

The isolator is used so that your TV isn't continuously charging both circuits. Your TV battery cannot be drawn down by the trlr load, whether parked or moving.
If you overly drain your trlr battery during your trip you will still be able to use your TV vehicle to jump to the trlr to raise/lower.

They are reasonably cheap, $25-35
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Old 04-30-2013, 12:21 PM   #8
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...
However I have seen no mention of using a "battery isolator" as the starting point. I mounted a battery isolator in the engine compartment, then ran a 10G fused, 30amp, wire to a truck bed battery position then extended it to the trlr battery....
This is exactly how my old tow vehicle (1989 Chevy Silverado) was set up and it worked reasonably well for 20 years. The only issue that I ran into was two isolator failures in that time period. The symptoms were the same as an alternator failure and I scratched my head with the first one until I decided to replace the isolator. The second time around I knew what it was and replaced the isolator right away.

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Old 04-30-2013, 02:51 PM   #9
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I have used an isolator on 3 vehicles and never had an issue. But good to know it has happened to others.
I would suppose that the symptoms would be a loss of charge/ing in the trlr battery. Other symptoms to note?
My hi-lo only has one battery in the tongue area. I have another battery in the bed of my TV which is also charged, for extended stays. When using the truck and no trlr, is automatically charged during store, etc. trips.
I also travel with a small generator and battery charger if the need arises.

I live in the desert, and water is way more important on a daily basis than power!

Never owned a Commando, but have ridden several. I have a 1983 Honda GL 650, only made one year!
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Old 04-30-2013, 06:00 PM   #10
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[QUOTE=renoites;18624} ...I would suppose that the symptoms would be a loss of charge/ing in the trlr battery. Other symptoms to note?...

Never owned a Commando, but have ridden several. I have a 1983 Honda GL 650, only made one year! ...[/QUOTE]

Actually, in both cases it was loss of charging in the main battery. I did not check at the time to see if there was loss of output to the auxiliary battery. As you can see by this diagram the charge to the main battery goes through the isolator: http://www.mp3car.com/attachments/po...y-isolator.jpg This is one of my concerns with isolators.

The other concern is that isolators do not provide full charging voltage to the auxiliary battery. Relays are better in this respect, but a relay will not keep the main battery from being drawn down if there's a failure in the auxiliary battery while they are connected.

I have a 1974, 850 Norton Commando Roadster. I've owned it since 1978 and it is in pristine condition.

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Old 04-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #11
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Would love to see a picture of your pristine condition commando.
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Old 05-01-2013, 01:07 PM   #12
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Would love to see a picture of your pristine condition commando.
Now that I think of it, it's been so long since I've taken pictures of the Commando, that I don't have any digital photos of it. I'll take a photo next time that I roll it out.

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