Exterior Roof, doors, windows, awnings, etc
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Old 06-04-2018, 09:47 AM   #1
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Default The roof leaks.

My wife and I bought our trailer in 2010. It's a 1976 17' single axel.

My mom always took me camping with a pop up. I remember her saying after setup i wish we had a hi lo, and every time a brand new one pulled in the campgrounds. our daughter was born in 09 and we quickly realized that my wilderness gear was not going to work for the family. So for the past eight years we have been using the mobile nest(the hi lo)as a cargo trailer putting the gear and the bikes inside. It stinks and leaks like a strainer, it leaks so bad if the morning due is heavy my forehead would get dripped on in the dinette with the kids above me in the loft. We used the trailer every year gutting more and more. To try getting rid of the smell.

My wife (bless her heart) would ask to renovate every year. It was never in the budget or something else would suck the time from my life. I refused to fix anything inside the trailer, instead I worked on road worthy. Breaks,lights,outside aesthetics.

Last year we used the nest 15 Times. Everyone loves it, until they look inside. Ooh they would say. People don't understand why we would camp it. Most rigs we park next to dwarf mine. I never understood going camping with one hundred thousand dollars. The point is to get outside especially today with the kids and the devices.

Hi lo's are built panel by panel with the inside paneling as a place holder(The screws will hold just fill the gap.) So if you want it right disassembly should be done. Yes the entire trailer. I filled the gaps with metel shims and spray foam. I wanted as much insulation as possible 2" in the roof was the goal.

Ripping the nest apart made me question the quality of the trailer.( why not use stainless screws on the exterior baffles me). Anyway we put foam in between the frame and glued them in with silicone. we used 3/4 foam form Lowe's i laminated them together with contact cement and drywall hangers the plastic screw type i did not want anything rusting thru on the headliner just in case something gets wet. Then we stretched the metal on that we bought from Milton valley RV in California. 950.00 with tax and shipping. So we have about 1300.00 in the roof all said and done.

Life is busy. I wanted to start sharing the process with everyone, I just don't have the time to type this. So bear with me on the photos and the process of writing this up.

Not A poet.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:12 AM   #2
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All the insulation from the factory was just laid in the roof. Once I had the roof removed I sanded and painted all rusty and missing primer.

The front cabinet at the curve supports the aluminum so I rebuilt it with aromatic cedar. I used cedar just in case it leaks again it probably won't rot. There is no room for insulation in the curve so I used reflectics bubble. Flattened (popped)the bubbles at the frame. I did add a support in the middle which acts as a divider for the cabinet.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:30 AM   #3
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Putting the insulation in was a long process I wanted a curve in the roof so each piece was cut and sanded to fit so that it would bow from compression. A mistake that I made was left the foam sticking up near the edge. Once I started bending metal over it was in the way. (i had to sand down the ridge..... Flush at the edge.) after that long and doubtful process I ended up with inch and three quarters of foam before the headliner.
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:30 AM   #4
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Just a question The Ohioian (or should I say MUL SK NR?) did you seal the edges and seams of the metal? Or does the caulk suffice? I've assisted in replacing a metal roof with rubber (spray foam insulation), but was just curious about sealing the edge of the metal.
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Old 06-05-2018, 11:48 AM   #5
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Tree the seams are a acme seams just like the factory. takes a giant press...(milton valley has one). everywhere i called did not want my bussiness. or wanted to sell me 4x8 sheets that i would have to join. silicone is great, it just oozes out when you fasten it. i dont like waiting for it to cure before i rivet. yes the edges are sealed with a small bead right at the corner with silicone under before the bend.( just for insurance water tends to amaze me when the tension lets it flow up..lol..) its not needed. butal tape under the trim works fine. i also used the new flashing for curved windows on the curve and rear.

i am not mul sk nr... what is that..
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:25 PM   #6
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After I built the front cabinet we needed to reproduce the curve. The paneling used from the factory fell apart as it came out most of the stink was in this area.

When we started looking for a replacement I did not like paneling materials because it holds moisture and its cheap and ugly. I am sorry for calling paneling ugly it's not for me.

Frp.. Fiberglass reinforced plastic. I had worked with it before in surgery rooms so it not going to hold water. I used super 77 spray glue to laminate the frp to the reflectics after I cut and fit. Used rivets to try and stay flush.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:38 PM   #7
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here is a view from the outside.FRP.
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Old 06-05-2018, 12:46 PM   #8
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Happened to notice the license plate hanging on the wall. Must say, that's an impressive job your doing. You sure don't waste time. You'll be enjoying your Hi Lo in no time.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:56 PM   #9
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Default Good job on the remodel.

May you have many fun filled and leak free adventures.
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Old 06-06-2018, 10:07 PM   #10
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the reason i bought my roof for the rv place was they have dyes that bend in a s at the union of the siding. (i learned this from the shasta guys.) so i measured with a static rope from the top of the window and the side to the back took the average. i laid out the metal on a hot day in the sun on top the camper..

i cut off the chanel that holds the the trim along the top of the window test fitting and trying to level everything together. triming siding. leveling and test fitting. so..

i put two rivets on hidden in the s where i thought everything was lining up good ..

laid two ratchet straps across the top to hold down the metal.

clamped a ratchet strap on the back and pulled on a hot day in the sun...measured for the cut on the roof vent marked the roof vent...( freaked out took it all off.. re leveled marked and all came out the same.). cut the roof vent.
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