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07-12-2013, 01:52 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Currently San Antonio, Moving to Alaska '13
Posts: 189
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Roof woes...
Many of our HiLo's have metal roofs with a rubber roof, with many seams, put on over that at some point as a repair to the leaky, pin hole infested metal roof.
I've also seen either liquid epdm or some other "fix" applied over that. I own 2 with this same thing done to both. Bought them that way, I didn't do it. The one with the "hard" coating over the rubber roof failed HORRIBLY... it failed so bad, it split the seams of the rubber roof under it.
DO NOT DO THIS TYPE OF REPAIR!!! You will not save any money in the long run.
Both of mine failed in a hail storm. The hail hit the roof so hard it caused the original tin roof to poke up through both layers... you want to talk about leaks...
You can think "fluke" if you want - out of 75+ rv's in the park that day, mine were the only ones to suffer roof damage (staying in one, the other was in storage) varied levels of years... even the 70's model class c didn't get damaged.
Don't do it, spend the money and fix the roof like I have to... not on one but two bad idea for a "repair" method
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07-12-2013, 04:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 180
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So what method are you planning on using?
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PappaP
Former Owner of a 1999 Classic HiLo Model 29B
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07-12-2013, 07:44 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 8
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Are you talking about NOT using the elastomeric type coatings like dyco or cool seal offers as a repair for leaking metal roofs,or something else? Please give specifics Im getting close to this stage in my rebuild.
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07-13-2013, 11:29 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Currently San Antonio, Moving to Alaska '13
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PappaP
So what method are you planning on using?
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The only method that makes sense... because the original problem was the metal roof leaking, I need to take that off and repair the damage done from it's leaks.
I already have the new roof and kit (epdm) once I replace the underlayment.
A roof over a roof over a roof - where do you stop, take it down and start new? If the original leaked and the underlayment is suspect... and unless you know for sure how long it leaked, then it probably is, what ever you do is a bandaid from now on...
I have to take the metal roof off - it has tears in it from the hail, and it has many - putting anything on top of that is just waiting for it to fail.
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07-13-2013, 11:35 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Currently San Antonio, Moving to Alaska '13
Posts: 189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thingamabob
Are you talking about NOT using the elastomeric type coatings like dyco or cool seal offers as a repair for leaking metal roofs,or something else? Please give specifics Im getting close to this stage in my rebuild.
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Rebuild? Water damage? If you have "soft" spots on your roof, is putting something on top of it a good idea?
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07-14-2013, 09:36 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: near Tampa, Fla
Posts: 277
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pics
Love to see some pics on this one. I need to learn more that's for sure.
Later Tim
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03-25-2014, 02:12 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Georgetown, S. C.
Posts: 4
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Leaking Roof
Quote:
Originally Posted by thingamabob
Are you talking about NOT using the elastomeric type coatings like dyco or cool seal offers as a repair for leaking metal roofs,or something else? Please give specifics Im getting close to this stage in my rebuild.
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I had a leak in my roof not bad but a leak and I just put the elastomeric on top because we had a lot of rain coming I sure am glad I did no more leaks it rained enough to test it.
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03-26-2014, 11:03 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: central wisconsin
Posts: 41
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roof woes
A product I have used and would use again in a heartbeat is Eternabond. It's been three or four years and the repair still looks like new, with no leaking since. Eternabond sticks so well you cannot move it once it is applied.
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06-26-2014, 09:50 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Hudson, FL
Posts: 2
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Hi David, I just bought a Hi/Lo and I have to replace the roof and upper wall panels. Can you please suggest somewhere that I can order materials for this. Thanks!
Sincerely;
Matt
Hudson, FL
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06-26-2014, 09:18 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,070
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Roof woes
I need more information to help you. We did a upper wall rebuild of our 1990 25ft. HiLo Classic. All of our materials came from local lumber yard and ACE hardware. We had to order in our 1/4inch paneling with vinyl covering from ACE. It was made by Georgia Pacific. We didn't have to do all the walls so we just picked a paneling that sort of matched. All our windows were taken out and resealed with 2inch butyl tape that was purchased at our local RV store. Lexel caulk was purchased at ACE hardware. Do a search on the internet for paneling ideas and the best prices on any supplies that you may need. Ask our forum members any questions and you will surely get helpful advice. Our members know the best places to get supplies and the best prices. Look up my link to the photo bucket wall repair story. 4-6-2014. Welcome to the forum. McFeelys is the place I ordered boxes of 100 stainless steel screws. Others have gotten them from Fastenal store. Our trailer did not require roof replacement. Another forum member did extensive interior and exterior roof replacement.
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06-27-2014, 12:30 AM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Gilbert AZ
Posts: 70
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Why butyl? Isn't it very hard to remove a window when using butyl?
We used to use the ribbon (puddy) tape in the 70's. Life was rated at 20 years.
Rick
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06-27-2014, 09:21 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,070
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Removing and sealing window
Butyl tape is recommended by our RV dealer. It does a great job sealing the window. I don't plan on having to do this job again in our life time. It is certainly better than what HiLo used on our windows 20 yrs. ago.
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