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  #1  
Old 07-05-2010, 01:22 PM
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Angry My Trailer is Overloaded

OK, the title summarizes the problem, and here's how I determine this is true:
1. The GVWR for my 1707T is 3840 lbs, according to the CD-132 form inside the trailer.
2. The UVW, which includes ALL manufacturer installed equipment is listed as 3001 lbs.
3. The weight of filled fresh water (36 gals) is given as 299 lbs and the weight of propane (9 gals) is given as 40 lbs.
4. This leaves 500 lbs as the additional Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC).
5. According to the trailer manual, the hitch weight should be between approximately 12-15% of the full load weight, or 461-576 lbs at the GVWR.
5. There is NO "dealer installed equipment". Everything in the trailer is shown as "Optional Equipment Installed By Manufacturer. So, I conclude I should be able to add 500 more pounds of cargo to the trailer, with full water and propane and still remain within the weight limit.
6. I have added an additional battery, weighing approximately 50 lbs, most of which would be added to the hitch weight.
7. Additional cargo included pots, pans and dishes under the sink and microwave (maybe 20 pounds total).
The trailer is connected to my tow vehicle, a 2005 F150 SCrew, with an Equal-I-Zer Sway Control Hitch. The trailer is level while being towed and the compression difference at the truck axles are within 3/4" of the unloaded measurements.

On a public scale, with full fresh water and propane, I found the trailer axle weight was 3320 lbs. The axle is rated at 3500 lbs and the OEM tires (Goodyear 205/75R15 LR C) were rated at 1820 lbs each. It is clear that the axle loading is VERY close to the rated limits of the axle and the tires.

But - I then measured the weight at the trailer hitch (using the "bathroom scale" method) and found it to be 705 lbs! This brings the GVW of the trailer to 4025 lbs, which is 185 lbs over the limit.

My OEM tires on the trailer both failed due to cord separation in the second year, at less than 5000 miles. They were ALWAYS inflated to 50 psi (cold), and I always kept my tow speeds near 65 mph.

Additionally, the axle was replaced at this time because technicians said it looked like it had "failed". Dexter axle confirmed that the axle was "out of spec" due to unknown causes and the replacement was free.

The Dexter representative told me there would be insufficient clearance to mount a heavier axle on this trailer. But, the current design seems unsafe.

I wrote HI-LO explaining my concern and never got a response.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and does anyone have any suggestions on how I should proceed?

- Jack
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:57 AM
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You should weigh the trailer by itself to get the true weight. It sounds like you may have been hitched to the TV when you weighed it for the axle weight and have a WD hitch. That could affect some of the numbers.

By the way, where is the CD-132 located on you trailer? I have a 2310H and I cannot find any weight related stickers anywhere inside. There is a yellow weight sticker outside that gives 2664 pounds with no explanation at to what it means. That could be the cargo capacity.

I found this website that explains some of the questions we all have about weight. http://www.everything-about-rving.com/rv-weight.html

Last edited by RichR; 07-06-2010 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 07-06-2010, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichR View Post
You should weigh the trailer by itself to get the true weight. It sounds like you may have been hitched to the TV when you weighed it for the axle weight and have a WD hitch. That could affect some of the numbers.

By the way, where is the CD-132 located on you trailer? I have a 2310H and I cannot find any weight related stickers anywhere inside. There is a yellow weight sticker outside that gives 2664 pounds with no explanation at to what it means. That could be the cargo capacity.
Rich, thanks for responding. I wondered about that, since a WD hitch might easily add to the axle loading. But, of course, I'm still running uncomfortably close to the limit, with an empty trailer! As things stand, the only "cargo" we put in there on trips is food in the refrigerator and our clothing and bedding - hardly much weight at all.

The truck scale people won't let me drop the trailer on the scale, but I could probably disconnect the weight distributing arms and just tow it up on the scale connected to the hitch ball. That shouldn't put any additional weight on the axle.

I've ordered a Sherline tongue weight scale and it should arrive tomorrow. That will give me a more accurate measurement of the hitch weight too.

The CD-132 form is pasted to the inside wall just to the left of the door. I actually took mine off, laminated it with plastic and remounted it, since I wanted it as a reference. The original glue that was holding it on pretty much "gave up the ghost". I suspect you may have had one, but it fell off at some time.

Edit: Thanks for the link!

- Jack
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:14 AM
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One thing you may want to do is not run with a full water tank. Put maybe 10 gallons in just in case you need some water on the road and then either fill or hook up to city water at you destination. The only time we fill up is when we are going boondocking about forty miles away from home. Short lower speed non-freeway trips are not as demanding on all the vital parts.
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:50 AM
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Thanks again, Rich. I've already gotten to that point. We tow the trailer with EMPTY water tanks, which is a bit of a pain. Since we almost always "boondock", I end up filling the tanks when we get there, by hand, using 5 gallon jugs and a funnel.

Once in a while though, we go places where there's NO potable water (or maybe no water at all) and then I have to fill the tank.

It's ridiculous, really. We have the "next to smallest" Hi-Lo made, and I'm worried about weight?

It'll be interesting to get an accurate measure of the tongue weight. If it's actually as high as my bathroom scale measurement indicated, it suggests the axle should be mounted a bit more forward. (The tongue weight was 564 lbs with an empty water tank.) There's room in front of the tires to do this, but it would mean the mounting brackets on the frame would have to be moved (a welding job). Just moving the axle forward by an inch would give me room to use larger tires, or 16" wheels and tires with a higher weight capacity. (I know how to do the calculation to determine a safe movement distance too.)

- Jack
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Old 07-06-2010, 11:38 AM
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See if you can find a heavier duty tire first, like a Load Range D. I don't know what is out there in that size, but that may be the best solution. It could require a wider wheel rim also.

Last edited by RichR; 07-06-2010 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 07-06-2010, 02:29 PM
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I've actually done that Rich. I've put Maxxis ST205/75R15 LR D tires on the axle, which have a load rating of 2150 pounds at 65 psi. However, this brings up a possible problem with the rims, which I think are only rated to 50 psi! I have not been able to locate any 15" rims that are rated to 65 psi.

There are only a couple of manufacturers that seem to make LR D tires in the 205/75R15 size and the clearance between the tire tread and the step well on the right side is only about 1/2 inch. This is what is stopping me from using a larger tire such as 225/75R15 - the tire tread would contact the step well. All the LR D tires I've found require 65 psi too.

Personally, I think Hi-Lo has a questionable design here. And, I suspect the same problem may well exist with the 19T trailer too, since it uses the same 3500# single axle.

- Jack
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:18 PM
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I don't know if the pressure is an issue for rims, but if you go to a 225 tire you may need a wider rim. This is getting out beyond my school of experience, I will say no more.
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Old 07-06-2010, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichR View Post
I don't know if the pressure is an issue for rims, but if you go to a 225 tire you may need a wider rim. This is getting out beyond my school of experience, I will say no more.
It's OK, Rich. I didn't start this thread with the idea of not getting suggestions. You've actually been MOST helpful, because things you've said have triggered different ideas in my own mind.

And, I just used a better search string and found some 15" 5-4.5 bolt rims that ARE rated to 65 psi. The bad news is they are aluminum and are $84 each. I'll need to do a bit more checking to see if they are otherwise OK. (And, I'll keep looking to see if there's something else not quite so "fancy").

- Jack
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:11 AM
JRF JRF is offline
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Good Morning,

I also have been looking at the Maxxis ST205/75R15 LR D as a replacement for the OEM Marathon tires. I have the Eight-Spoke Dexstar wheels and have been trying to get a definite answer on their PSI capacity (Dexstar customer service is lacking). I will pull the defective tire tomorrow and check for a tag or stamping on the rim. I like the idea of a higher load-rated tire for the extra margin of safety. I also found the Sherline tongue weight scale and will be ordering one.

It seems I was blissfully ignorant during the time we owned our 1707 (tire wise) but am trying to be proactive with the 2310. I would hate having that little voice of doubt in my ear as we hurtle across Nebraska and into the Rockies this fall! Accurate weights, vigilant PSI checks, and slower speeds sound like the way to go.

Jack, thanks for the input on this subject.
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