New problem water coming out as fast as going in... - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

GiGi · 04-24-2013, 02:14 PM

I just bought an 87 Funchaser. During filling of the water tank, water was pouring out on the opposite side of the trailer (front passenger corner). I went over there and there seems to be elbow bend in the pipe with a nipple coming of off it. No cap or hose on the end; hence, the water draining out. Anyone know what is supposed to be there? I have attached a picture...

PappaP · 04-24-2013, 02:26 PM

That would most likely be where the fresh water tank drain is located normally. It sounds like yours is missing.

JIM L · 04-24-2013, 02:31 PM

Poor picture, but from what I see and what you said sounds like the drain valve for the fresh water tank. Should have a plastic shut off valve on the end of the tube. Past post have indicated they do break off from age or being hit. You need to find a new valve and cement to the pipe or nipple. Should be able to get everything at Lowes or Home Depot. Should be a simple fix.

GiGi · 04-24-2013, 02:48 PM

Does it matter what style of valve I get? The nipple definitely has a flange as if a hose was connected to it with a hose clamp. And thank you once again!

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIM L

Poor picture, but from what I see and what you said sounds like the drain valve for the fresh water tank. Should have a plastic shut off valve on the end of the tube. Past post have indicated they do break off from age or being hit. You need to find a new valve and cement to the pipe or nipple. Should be able to get everything at Lowes or Home Depot. Should be a simple fix.

JIM L · 04-24-2013, 03:06 PM

The valve on my HiLo is a plastic valve with a 90 degree turn knob to open or close. It is cemented to the short pipe but you will find some valves that use a compression slip-on attachment. Measure the OD of your pipe for the correct size. You will also find brass valves with compression fittings that can be used. HiLo used the plastic and the ones on my other RVs were also plastic.

GiGi · 04-24-2013, 03:19 PM

You, Sir, are a gem! Off to Lowe's

Quote:

Originally Posted by JIM L

The valve on my HiLo is a plastic valve with a 90 degree turn knob to open or close. It is cemented to the short pipe but you will find some valves that use a compression slip-on attachment. Measure the OD of your pipe for the correct size. You will also find brass valves with compression fittings that can be used. HiLo used the plastic and the ones on my other RVs were also plastic.

retiredcamper47 · 04-24-2013, 03:25 PM

In theory, here is what it would look like.Drain Valve 003.jpg Hope this helps.

Bob

GiGi · 04-24-2013, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by retiredcamper47

In theory, here is what it would look like.Attachment 2306 Hope this helps.

Bob

That's what I had in my mind's eye. Thank you, Bob!

retiredcamper47 · 04-24-2013, 03:38 PM

GiGi,

You might consider going with a brass house spigot for the drain. I got tired of replacing the nylon plastic shutoff valve. After a while, the handle gets brittle and breaks. I solved that by going with brass. MISC2 003.jpg

Bob

GiGi · 04-24-2013, 05:50 PM

I am really starting to feel dumb here. I am very mechanically inclined, work on my trucks myself, but this trailer is getting the best of me! LOL. It is the actual valve - nothing is missing. I felt around and found the petcock on the top of it and turned it shut. Am thinking the previous person winterized it (I have been reading a lot here)? I have now located the fuse box, water pump, converter box, etc, and various other items under one of the benches. The man I bought it from told me the water pump absolutely works when I asked him. Is there something I'm missing? Is there a way other than the rocker switch on the panel for communication center is to disable/turn it off when the trailer is not in use for a while? Is the rocker switch supposed to turn red when it is in the on position?

JIM L · 04-24-2013, 07:12 PM

The rocker switch should light up when turned on, but those little bulbs do burn out. Call J&R for replacements. You have not told us if you have a good multi meter and know how to use it. As for the pump it will have a DC fuse on the fuse panel or a inline fuse. Check to see if the fuse is good. Turn the pump on and see if you have 12 volts DC at the pump. Check the ground lead at the pump to make sure of a good ground connection. If you have the 12V DC and a good ground there is a pressure switch inside the pump that turns the pump on an off when you turn on and off a water faucet. This could be bad If it is bad its a new pump. I would first look for a disconnected wire, bad fuse, bad ground connection. Next remove the monitor panel and check for 12V DC input to the pump switch, looking for a bad switch. I have had to replace one. Got it from J&R. If you don't understand any part of this lets talk on the phone. hope this helps.

PappaP · 04-24-2013, 07:22 PM

Not sure if you know that in order to operate the 12V accessories you also will need to make sure that the main switch by the door is in the up position? When it is in the down position you operate the lift mechanism, center is off position, and up position will operate all 12V accessories.

RichR · 04-24-2013, 08:06 PM

The pump switch should light red when on, the bulb may be bad. I don't know if they are replaceable. The master power switch, which is part of the lift switch panel is supposed to turn of all 12 volt devices, including the pump, with exception to the fridge.

GiGi · 04-25-2013, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PappaP

Not sure if you know that in order to operate the 12V accessories you also will need to make sure that the main switch by the door is in the up position? When it is in the down position you operate the lift mechanism, center is off position, and up position will operate all 12V accessories.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichR

The pump switch should light red when on, the bulb may be bad. I don't know if they are replaceable. The master power switch, which is part of the lift switch panel is supposed to turn of all 12 volt devices, including the pump, with exception to the fridge.

My trailer doesn't have a main switch by the door or in the where the lift switch panel is. All there is there is the toggle switch, the safety bar cable and a red light. I found the 12v fuse panel - its part of the converter. The fuse was blown - however, when I replaced the fuse and the pump kicked on, water came out of the faucets as it should, but it also came pouring out of the trailer - not inside, but outside underneath on the passenger side. Is there some sort of valve or something that people close or turn off when they weatherize that would cause that? I couldn't get water into the toilet, either.

PopRichie77 · 04-25-2013, 07:35 PM

You could have a broken water line or there may be a valve close to where the water is coming out. Valve on the back side of toilet near floor may be turned off. Both of mine have this valve.

PappaP · 04-25-2013, 07:36 PM

Yes there is a shutoff valve that should be in place on the front passenger side area of the fresh water tank that you are talking about. Look at the pictures that "retiredcamper" posted earlier and they show the valve.

Also there is a shutoff valve for the toilet supply as well. Mine is located right by the toilet and visible. However not sure on yours maybe its located elsewhere for some reason?

RichR · 04-25-2013, 08:07 PM

I have both cold and hot drain lines that exit through the floor for draining the lines for winterization. The valves are located directly above where the lines exit through the floor. Maybe they are open if you have them.