A very common problem with raising and lowering the trailer, the upper piece of the telescoping vent pipe flange brakes.This flange is held in place by a set nut (like on a sink drain). The stress on the flange breaks when the plumbing pipe doesn't line up in the lowered position. Mine was broke when I bought my trailer used, the factory drilled the hole in my wardrobe countertop in the wrong location. I simply unscrewed the countertop and put it in the correct spot. I bought a new vent pipe from a dealer that had one laying around.

For anyone who has this flange break and can't get a replacement, Use (what plumbers call) a no-hub connector. A rubber sleeve with two stainless steel hose clamps. You may have to go to a plumbing supply house, because you'll want a tappering no-hub connector. One end to slip over the set nut threads and the other to slip over the 1 1/4 pipe. If the cloth cover doesn't stay up, use a zip tie to hold it.

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Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

CTWC - do you have any pics of this piece?

My plumbing vent is broken at the top, where it attaches to the roof. There looks to be about 3 screws that hold the flange to the roof - but they're all stripped from the wood, and it won't stay in place.

I could try wood glue, but that would really be a mess in the event that I needed to disassemble the unit for some reason.

I'm interested in seeing what you're suggesting. Sounds like what I'm looking for -

Seems to me that I remember someone saying that they disconnect the Vent pipe before they lower the trailer. We have never had to do this. I did use a seam ripper to take out the seam on the fabric cover that covers the bundle of wires next to the vent pipe in my classic. It needed to be washed. I then used my sewin g machine to sew velcro to make the cover go around the bundle of wires again.

Vent pipe miss alignment can be cause by broken or worn out glide blocks. This was the problem on our 95T. If the flange is broken off the ABS vent tube that goes up and down, it can be fixed by cutting a 3/16 piece of pipe off a PVC pipe that just fits over the vent pipe, then glue it on, you must use the glue that is for ABS and PVC tubing. Works great and you don't have to remove the vent from the roof.
J R Repair has new vent tubes with the flange on them, but it requires removing the roof vent to install, due to the length.

I just replaced the Stink Tube on my '84 Funmaker that I got from JR a while back. While I was at it, I decided to replace the exterior cap on the top as it had been leaking for some time. What the stink tube flange fits to is actually a 11/2x3" galvanized nipple. Because of the dry rot around the roof penetration, the cap was no longer stable, so had to remove the bottom flange. NOT easy due to rust/crud on Galvy pipe threads. I wound up having to cut it with a wood chisel, then prying it off. Hated to ruin it, but after a half hour of trying everything else, it had to come off somehow. Now the question was how to replace it? JR dosen't have any. I went to the good ol boys down @ H/D and started lookin'. New nipple, 11/2 ABS NPT to Slip and 1/12-2" galvanized bushing above roof. Next, I took another ABS NPT to Slip fitting and cut the "slip" part off with a hack saw, leaving me just the thread part. Placed another 11/2x2" bushing on nipple from bottom, srewed on my homehade "nut" and tightned 'er down!! I went back up on the roof, laid down a bead of caulk and screwed on the new cap. TA-DA!!

Love it when you have to doa repair and you"take it by force" We haven't had to do this repair yet.

I just purchased an '87 Funchaser that needs quite a bit of work. I'm actually pretty excited about it as I consider it an adventure.

My stink pipe seems to be missing. Both the upper and lower flanges seem to be in pretty good shape, no cracks. There doesn't seem to be a pipe in the bottom at all, so I need a replacement.

Having seen some of the videos on the newer models, I noticed they were using flex hose instead of a pipe. This gave me an idea. Why not use flex hose for the older models?

Since the diameters seem to be about 1 3/4 to 2 inch, it occurred to me that replacement hoses for your everyday wet/dry ShopVac might do the trick. You can buy the hoses by themselves. So I'm going to try to match one up and devise a way to thread or clamp both ends.

Just bought a 2008 Hi-Lo 22T. The black water vent line between counter top and ceiling is totally missing (still has connectors top and bottom).
1) Can anyone tell if this model came with Flexible or Telescoping vent pipe?
2) Should I repair it as a telescoping, or flex hose, at this point?
Thanks

What cha need is called a stink pipe. You can find it at the link below. Being that it telescopes with the raising and lowering of the trailer, I'd go with the original part that's made for it.

Home - JR REPAIR

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"Ruben"
2404T, 2003 2500HD 4X4 GMC Sierra SLT Crew Cab w/Astro camper shell and 2003 Chevy Tahoe LE 4X2
Far West Texas