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  #1  
Old 07-04-2011, 10:25 AM
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Default water running from under tub

I have water running from under my shower. What is the easiest way to access these pipes to find the link? It only happens whe preassured up by pump or water hose.

Last edited by Lisa A Cromwell; 07-04-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 07-04-2011, 10:57 AM
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Hi Lisa,

Not knowing what model HiLo you have, here goes. On all the models I have seen, the front panel of the shower (at the floor) can be removed by taking out the screws. This would expose the shower drain and water lines. If it is the water line itself that is leaking (hole in it), an easy fix would be with Shark Bite fittings and pex pipe from Home Depot. The fittings average $6 to $8 each but are super simple to use. Maybe you'll get lucky and it will only be a loose fitting that just needs to be tightened up.

Bob
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Old 07-04-2011, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by retiredcamper47 View Post
Hi Lisa,

Not knowing what model HiLo you have, here goes. On all the models I have seen, the front panel of the shower (at the floor) can be removed by taking out the screws. This would expose the shower drain and water lines. If it is the water line itself that is leaking (hole in it), an easy fix would be with Shark Bite fittings and pex pipe from Home Depot. The fittings average $6 to $8 each but are super simple to use. Maybe you'll get lucky and it will only be a loose fitting that just needs to be tightened up.

Bob
Hi Bob, thanks for your reply.
That was my first thought, I took the screws out, but could not manuver the panel out because of the cut off valve to the toilet being to close and the lip of the shower floor overlapping the top of the panel. GGrrr, probably going to have to take the valve off, I guess. I need a man around to do this stuff! Anyone have an extra? LOL.
Maybe I should pull the facet first? To make sure it is tight. I was thinking about cutting an opening in the pannel or bedroom wall behind the shower and putting a door on it. Think it would hurt anything?
I have a 29B classic 2001.
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Old 07-04-2011, 04:01 PM
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Lisa,

I went out and checked my unit. I have the 2001, 29' L model. Do not cut a hole in the bedroom/bathroom wall. The upper bathroom wall slides down into the lower wall. If you put screws into the wall, it might tend to shred the upper wall when you raise or lower. My shutoff valve for the toilet is 3 1/2 inches away from the front shower panel and not it the way. HiLo was noted for not making any model the same. How large is the slot in the front panel for the water line to the toilet? Mine is a good 4" high. I would suggest making the slot in your panel higher in order for it to clear the shutoff valve. It would be easier to hide the larger opening because the toilet is right there. By enlarging the slot, you should be able to pull the panel out from the bottom with no problems. The factory might have used a little sealer on the sides of the panel. With the panel off, have someone turn the water on while you watch for the leak. Remember, water seeks it's lowest level. Good luck.

Bob
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Old 07-04-2011, 06:43 PM
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Keep us posted on what you find with your water leak. If you figure out how to enlarge the shower, let me know. I have already ruled out a "tip out" shower Good luck with your repair.

Bob
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Old 07-04-2011, 11:36 PM
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Default Water leak in BR

We just had to take the panels off the side of the tub .The smaller panel off will expose the bathtub plumbing. I always wondered Why we had such a hard time getting the panel out. Then we cut 1/4 inch and it fit in much better.Came to the conclusion that it should have sl. shorter from the factory.
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:16 AM
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Default water leak

hi lisa,
I would check your cone seals on the back of your shower faucett. If you put a little water in your holding tank,it will be easy to just flip the pump switch and the pressure is not as great as a city line.then start by having the shower water lines open, and slowly close them to build pressure in the lines and fittings. also on the back of your shower faucett wall there was a opening on mine that was inside a cabnet, but i have a 22l (88) depending on the year, how much it is used,etc. if you change one seal, change them all (bath sink,kitchen sink,toiler,shower) that is what i did and prevented future problems.also,it might be easyier to remove your toilet so you can manouver around. also, remember the towels. best of luck!
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Last edited by robobd; 07-06-2011 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:46 AM
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Default can't get to the pumbing

Quote:
Originally Posted by robobd View Post
hi lisa,
I would check your cone seals on the back of your shower faucett. If you put a little water in your holding tank,it will be easy to just flip the pump switch and the pressure is not as great as a city line.then start by having the shower water lines open, and slowly close them to build pressure in the lines and fittings. also on the back of your shower faucett wall there was a opening on mine that was inside a cabnet, but i have a 22l (88) depending on the year, how much it is used,etc. if you change one seal, change them all (bath sink,kitchen sink,toiler,shower) that is what i did and prevented future problems.also,it might be easyier to remove your toilet so you can manouver around. also, remember the towels. best of luck!
Ok, it has been ignored awhile, but I am back on the project. I removed the panel under and infront of the shower floor, can't see or feel the pipes. The ducking for the heater is in the way as well as 1 by's that hold the plywood level that is under the shower floor.
There is no opening in my cabinet, but the pipes do come threw there. Looks impossible to remove that side of the cabinet.
There has got to be a way to get to these pipes with out pulling the shower floor out, any ideas?
So, how do I check the cone seals on the back of the facet? Do I have to remove the facet? If I pressure it up, I can not see where the water is coming from with out some access.
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by sam View Post
We just had to take the panels off the side of the tub .The smaller panel off will expose the bathtub plumbing. I always wondered Why we had such a hard time getting the panel out. Then we cut 1/4 inch and it fit in much better.Came to the conclusion that it should have sl. shorter from the factory.
Are you talking about removing the panel in front and beneath the shower floor? I took that off and the ducking for the heater as well as boards to support the shower floor are in the way.
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by retiredcamper47 View Post
Keep us posted on what you find with your water leak. If you figure out how to enlarge the shower, let me know. I have already ruled out a "tip out" shower Good luck with your repair.

Bob
Well, Bob, after months of ignoring this project, I am back on the job. With very little success! Can't get to the pipes.
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