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  #1  
Old 06-08-2011, 10:45 PM
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Default Running Fridge on the Road

We are currently camping down at Table Rock Lake in Missouri (nice place). The trip takes about 4 to 5 hours from Columbia, MO. I ran the fridge on DC the entire time. When, I got to the campsite, the battery was dead. I thought my tow vehicle alternator would charge the trailer battery through the 7 way hookup during the trip. Obviously, I was wrong.

Does anyone have a solution for running the fridge on DC and, at the same time, keeping the trailer battery charged ?
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Old 06-08-2011, 11:33 PM
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there was just a good thread on this topic. type in the word "fridge"
in your search box up in the blue section next to "quick links"
then scroll down to may 23rd and you will see it.'maybe it will help you
i will be heading out tomorrow but i just put in those blue frozen things for the trip. its only about an hour or so
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:56 AM
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ckindle56,

Here is a link to the thread about batteries and upgrading them.

Battery Power

Though, I suspect that your wiring and charging system is not a high enough grade. On my Tacoma, I had to upgrade my wiring and install a larger fuse to get enough juice to run the fridge on DC while towing. I'll have to find that link for you.
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Last edited by campthewestcoast; 06-09-2011 at 01:57 AM. Reason: add link
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:47 AM
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Depending on who wired your tow vehicle, there may not even be a wire for recharging the battery, a lot of people don't understand the 12 volt requirements that a Hi-Lo needs.
This is copied from one of my previous posts.---
The tow vehicle should keep the batteries charged as well as supply DC power for the fridge, it sounds like the wiring in your tow vehicle is not adequate. Both plus and negative wires should be number 10 wire and fused at no less than 30 amps. I have 2 wires, the original fused at 20 amps put in by the dealer which was very inadequate and I added another wire fused at 30 amps for a total of 50 amps, I also have two ground wires going to the tow vehicle plug, one is #10 wire. I have no problems with low batteries or with the fridge running on DC.
Check your tow vehicle fuse it is probably blown, to prevent blowing the fuse disconnect the 7 pin plug before raising the top. Even fused at 50 amps if the trailer batteries are down slightly the lift motor tries to draw power from the tow vehicle battery and will blow the fuse.

Last edited by PopRichie77; 06-09-2011 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campthewestcoast View Post
ckindle56,

Here is a link to the thread about batteries and upgrading them.

Battery Power

Though, I suspect that your wiring and charging system is not a high enough grade. On my Tacoma, I had to upgrade my wiring and install a larger fuse to get enough juice to run the fridge on DC while towing. I'll have to find that link for you.
Here's what I did, Go to ; Tow Vehicles, Battery Charging while towing.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2011, 10:25 AM
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In my opinion, running a fridge on 12v is a total waste. I plug my trailer in a few days prior to my departure. This allows the fridge to get to operating temp. I keep mine on #3. We place frozen items in the freezer compartment and pre-chilled items in the fridge part. This works out fine for a 4 - 5 hour pull. If the pull is going to be more than 5 hours, we put frozen water bottles in the fridge. I haven't lost any food yet doing it this way. Just thought I would add my two cents to the discussion.

Bob
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Old 06-09-2011, 11:02 AM
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Just adding our experiences with traveling with the fridge on 12 volts. We have done most of our travels with the fridge switched to 12 volts. On both of our trailers, past and present, we had dual deep cycle batteries, towed with a 2002 Explorer and now a 2007 Tacoma. We have never experienced any battery problems even after towing all day long in warm weather. We always pre-cool the fridge and put only cold/frozen food in. After arriving at our destination we raise the top and get switched to AC or gas ASAP. The battery indicator usually shows a full or near full charge. The wiring from the truck to the trailer has not been modified.

Maybe we are lucky!
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:56 PM
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"We place frozen items in the freezer compartment and pre-chilled items in the fridge part. This works out fine for a 4 - 5 hour pull. If the pull is going to be more than 5 hours, we put frozen water bottles in the fridge."

ckindle,

We've always done the same thing that Bob outlined above.

However, that was with our older 1969 Hi-lo... a design that did not allow for the proper venting needed for air flow behind the refrigerator when the trailer top was down.

Now, with the 2004, I'm rethinking the whole idea since this trailer is designed for the necessary refrigerator air flow when the top is down, so the reefer can operate without damage. I've tried it on DC underway and although the reefer works fine, our batteries do run down. I've also discussed the situation with our trailer mechanic, who, being VERY familiar with our Hi-Lo's design, flat out suggests running on propane while underway, the way its done with conventional trailers. I mentioned the issue of combustion gas build-up, etc., and he countered that because of the tip out design, and the 3 inch by 6 foot open gap, that there would be plenty of fresh air scouring out any toxic vapors.

Other contributors to the HTF have reported that they run on propane underway, without adverse effect. I've read the generic hazard warning advising to turn off the propane tanks, posted in our Hi-Lo... but frankly can't come up with what the actual danger would be.

Most of our camping is done within a 6 hour drive of our home, and the ice bottle method works just fine. But we occasionally strike out on road trips with 8-10 hour driving days, and my experience holds that the ice bottles just don't work very well on long on hot driving days. So I'm seriously considering using propane to operate the reefer underway.

Perhaps another Forum member can enlighten me as to the actual danger I'm overlooking.

Jim
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:23 PM
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I can think of two potential problems running the refrigerator on LP while underway, which would apply more or less to any heat source 120v, 12v or LP.

The first is will the refrigerator vent properly with the top down? It needs air circulation to work properly!

Secondly, if you are not driving on absolutely level highways you may cause irreparable damage to the the cooling system which relies on gravitation to work properly.

You can get dry ice at many supermarkets, which unlike block ice will not flood your HI-LO when it melts, although it was handy to have the water on the floor when I moped it up!
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:30 PM
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Major safety issue with running on propane is stopping to fuel up the tow vehicle. You do not want an open flame around gasoline vapors at the pumps.

Bob
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