My wife and I, along with our dog and cat, just completed a 6,500 mile round trip from the Pacific Northwest to the Gulf Coast with our 22' HiLo and I thought I would share some observations and questions. The HiLo is a 2006 model, but new to us. We purchased it this spring and had completed one shakedown trip before setting out for the Gulf Coast. Our tow vehicle is a 2005 Ford Expedition which has, at the completion of the trip, over 119,000 miles. In terms of RV experience we are fairly inexperienced, but not complete novices. We own a cruising sailboat and spent 4 years on it in Mexico. We also drove a 37' Winnebago from Mazatlan to Portland OR. As a kid I camped with my parents in everything from a surplus WWII tent to a fifth wheel.

At the suggestion of a friend we installed a weight distribution (no anti sway) hitch. We had previously towed a 7,500 lb boat and trailer from Portland to the Gulf Coast without a weight distribution hitch. The HiLo towed better than the boat and trailer but I am not sure it is because of the hitch. The hitch didn't get in our way, but I'm not sure I needed it. The HiLo presented absolutely no tow problems. In deference to the age and mileage of our tow vehicle we kept our speed to 65 mph. When we needed to go faster we were able to do so without problem. Our gas mileage was somewhere between 11 and 12 mpg.

We tried to average 350 miles per day. The limit is a personal preference not related to towing. Our trip took 7 days from Portland to Gautier MS and 8 days from Gautier to Portland. On those travel days we were setting up and taking down the trailer every day. We were able to get underway within 2 hours in the morning -- this includes a light breakfast. At the end of the day we were able to set things up within an hour from parking the trailer to relaxing with a cold one. In the future I would never travel more than two days straight before taking at least a half day resting. Again, just personal preference.

The air conditioner worked flawlessly-- a godsend in the heat and humidity of the Gulf Coast. In the future I will consider myself legally insane if I leave a Pacific Northwest Summer for even a part of a Summer in the Gulf Coast!

On our shakedown cruise, when we were lowering the trailer, we broke one of the rigid panels between the galley and the head. We replaced the broken rigid panel and the unbroken one with fabric. The cost of the repair was about $5 and it took about an hour to accomplish. I consider the fabric panels to be a vast improvement over the rigid panels. They can be rolled up when not needed and provide for a more spacious feeling, better air circulation, and better light distribution.

The bed was acceptable, and I would say even comfortable. Of course the person sleeping closest to the head was always disturbed when the person furtherest from the head crawled over them to get to the head. Not much you can do about that.

We have a small solar panel on the roof of the trailer. I am not sure of it's output, but I expect it is in the range of 60 to 80 watts. When we were going down the road we ran the fridge on DC power on a low setting and never ran out of battery, and the fridge kept things adequately cold.

We suffered one self inflicted injury but found something important about our trailer n the process. We failed to set wheel chocks one day and the trailer rolled forward and off of the tongue jack blocks. We were embarrassed and with the help of a neighbor in the RV park we were able to reblock the tongue jack without damage - we thought. The next day when we tried to set up the trailer we had no battery. Even connecting a battery charger wouldn't fully bring up the batteries. We had to take the trailer in for service, expecting to buy a couple of new batteries. No new batteries necessary. We found a couple of curious things. First, some of the circuitry in the converter had been bypassed and a couple of 30amp fuses had been installed. Both of those fuses had blown out so the converter was essentially off line. Also we discovered a crack in the cable connection to the battery. The crack was probably there before the trailer's fall and was exacerbated by the fall. New battery cable and a couple of 30 amp fuses and we were as good as new. We will need to look at the converter circuitry and probably replace it.

RV parks are curious places -- kind of like boat moorages but not really. I did not come up with a fail safe way to weed out clinkers. Admittedly, the major criteria I used for park selection was distance from the previous park and if I had selected on park amenities I might have done a better job. One obvious criteria is the presence of an on-site manager. The one park we stayed in that had no manager was hands down the worst. One park that I thought from the website would be very nice turned out to be a depressing collection of permanent residents crowded in to a parking lot. Another park I selected praying for the best since it certainly didn't look promising turned out to be a jewel. Factiously my wife and I decided that two criteria you could use to weed out parks that were primarily for permanent residents were the number of propane bottles larger than 30 lbs and the number of trailers or RVs with permanent weather skirting. I will mention by name the very best park we stayed in. That is Robidoux RV Park in Gering, Nebraska. It is just outside Scottsbluff. I think it is run by the City of Gering and it is an absolute delight. We paid $27 a night to stay there -- only $2 a night more than the worst park.

All and all we are extremely happy with our HiLo, but there are some things I have to comment about.

For something as well designed as the HiLo, dealing with the waste disposal hose is a major headache. Stuffing the waste disposable hose into one of the outside storage compartments was almost impossible. I kept thinking I would come up with the secret, but never did. WHAT IS THE ANSWER????? It was only after saying almost all of the words my mother does not know that I use that I was able to get the hose into or out of the compartment -- and this occurred everyday. Certainly someone has solved this problem. Please tell me!

The outside storage compartments are almost impossible to access when the trailer is in a lowered position.

What improvements do we have in mind?

I would like to install an external storage bin or rack on the rear bumper. Ideally I would like to carry my Honda 2000 there, AND POSSIBLY THAT PESKY WASTE DISPOSABLE HOSE AS WELL. Does this seem feasible? Does anyone have experience with doing something similar?

I also plan to install a battery monitor that would be visible by opening only the front part of the battery compartment so it could be easily read when the trailer is in a lowered position.

One final thing and I will end this overly long post. During the entire month we were on the road and through the entire 6,500 miles we traveled, and 14 RV parks we stayed in we did not see another HiLo trailer. Where are you guys?

Welcome to Hi-Los!
1st, If I'm not mistaken, on ALL RVs, the storage compartment for the Waste Hose is in the Rear Bumper. Just take out the Rubber Closures on the end(s)! You may already have one there from the previous Owner.

2nd Doesn't make sense to me, because I see them all the time in the Campgrounds I go too, and occasionally on the road! Have Two in my yard!

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Formerly 2176B Classic since 1988, needs work!
Now 2600TFB since May 2017
1982 G20 3/4 Ton Chevy Sportvan
Navy Vietnam Vet

A few comments. I am glad over all that things went well. We carry spares for anything that is in the HiLo and our truck. We even have some fuses for our kitty cat string lights. We keep our sewer home in a plastic container that the lid snaps..locks down. It fits in a side compartment or the back of the truck. One time we forgot it at home and had to buy another one at ACE Hardware. Dh has had to replace our converter and had to buy some additional wire to complete the job. Spare fuses can be bought at Walmart or RV places and some automotive stores. Best converter out of California is where we bought our converter. Know your model # and they will advise you on what to get. I have heard of other where the panel has snapped. We also went out the first time on a five hr. trip and didn't realize that you needed to block the wheels up. Just used leveling blocks under the tires. Then we found some cut logs and used them behind the wheels. It doesn't matter how many years you have been rving each campsite is different. Still learning. Perhaps when picking out a campsite you could ask to drive around before picking out a site. That way you could leave if it is creepy.

my wife and I did some research and ended up buying a Hi Lo 2706 T. I bought a 2008 Nissan Titan for our tow vehicle. we live in Tucson Az. i went to Minnesota to pick it up. I got it home and we fell in love with it. i did some modifications to our pick up. better brakes, helper springs and an enormous transmission cooler. we left May 1st. and so far we went east southern Florida. we went north then west. 14 states, and 5600 miles later we are in Michigan. we are heading towards Yellowstone in the morning. both units have worked flawlessly. in 2010 we had a 27ft Cougar 5th wheel and a Chevy 3/4 ton.our gas mileage was 6 low to 10 high. we are averaging 12 to 14 mpg. in the crosswinds i see other trailers pitching and our goes smoothly. we are going to Glacier, Palouse, Wa. Yackima, and hopefully Olympic penninsula, then down the coast. our trip will be 11000 to 12000 miles. Hi Lo's are great

I concur on sewage hose storeage. Back bumper. Next time I might suggest scoping out and reserving sites n state parks if you can. Most have at least some sites with electric. An App I use on my tablet and phone is something called Allstays which often has a link to reviews and you can get a better sense of what any campground is like.

The weight distribution hitch, as you know, is meant to keep the front of your vehicle fully weighted which keeps the headlights on the road and the steering firm. If set up correctly they work well and I wouldn't tow without one. And I also like taking a day or so somewhere while on the road to smell the roses , watch the birds, and hob nob with locals. Thanks for reminding me to chock the wheels.

Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

Thanks for the replys to date. I truly did not know about the back bumper storage. It makes perfect sense and explains the cheesy rubber plug in one end. Mom raised a swearing child, not a bright one. I notice one of the respondents is from Kansas. I am a native of Smith Center Kansas and passed through there on the trip I wrote about. We stopped in Smith Center to visit an uncle. The RV park in SC was the one without an attendant. In that instance I was aware of what we were getting into, but since I wanted to visit my uncle had little choice. Can anyone help me out with the question of whether or not putting a storage bin on the back bumper/waste hose storage compartment is a good idea?

Dave, concur with hose stowage in rear bumper, it does fit three hoses for extra length. amazon sells snap covers for the bumper, but I also use a rare earth magnet (VERY strong) just inside to prevent the hose popping out.
My DSO and I have been all over the south east, mostly in state parks, and have encountered only three Hi Los in those parks and fewer on the road.
As far as choosing a site, I'm picky. Knowing my destination, I select a park, google it's physical address, then look at it on google earth. This way I can see the comfort stations, shaded areas, etc, then I go back and reserve my site. Many parks only ensure you have a site, but you cannot RESERVE a particular site. You get there then find an open site, set up and then tell them where your at. State parks are pretty much the same with a few exceptions and some are worse than others. I DO uses the review system. They don't like bad reviews, so parks generally fix things quickly.
Sounds like you had a great trip, hope they are all as easy. My only burp so far was a fuel pump in my tow vehicle. We average 12 - 14 mpg (once went to 10 in mountains).
Tree

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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC

Dave, are you talking a battery monitor as in just to read the state of the battery? amazon has one, simple hook-up made by E-Bro for less than $15. I've had mine in place for over a year. Stays visible 24/7. Simple hook-up. 1 1/8" hole, feed wires to the batt poles, your done. I mounted mine on the lower skirt. I see it from inside the house.
Tree

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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC

Here's the batt state meter.
Tree

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Treeclimber
2703 Tow Lite
2002 Escalade
Bonita Springs, Fl. &
Andrews, NC

People have discussed and made storeage bins/ platforms before with some success. I suggest you try a search on this forum and see what you come up with. That said, the weight of that generator does become a factor hanging way off the back like that. I actually notice it a bit when I am just carrying a bike rack and bike. My 2000 generator ( not a Honda but similar size) weighs around 50 - 60 lbs. If you did it you would certainly want to re-set up your wdh once it was on.

Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

DaveReilly,

The previous owner of our 2407T added a rack to the rear of the Hi-Lo. It was not connected to the bumper but welded to the frame with reinforced 2" x 2" steel struts extending underneath the rear bumper. It works quite well for carrying a generator and gas or firewood and easily handles several hundred pounds.

Attached Images

IMG_0001.jpg (338.5 KB, 5 views)

Thats a nice looking rack there Astro.

I wonder though, when you add weight to the back like that (behind the axles), wouldn't you want to balance the load with equal weight *forward* of the axles?

Anyone have any thoughts?

It really depends on how much weight you put there, Knotty. Ideally, you want the tongue weight to be 10-15% of the total trailer weight (which includes any "cargo" you add). So, you would need to weigh the trailer and the tongue to see what you have.

The rear of the trailer is probably closer to the axle(s) than the tongue hitch too, so you would not necessarily have to add an equal weight forward (the "seasaw principle"), depending on where you were to add that weight.

In general, to minimize trailer sway, trailer tongue weights average close to 12%, so that's what I'd shoot for.

The other factor to consider is the GAWR of the trailer. You can only add so much weight before you overload the tires and suspension. Again, this is why one should ALWAYS weigh the trailer after some addition like this is performed.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

KnottyRig,

Our 2407T has the fresh water tank up front just behind the batteries. With a full tank of water we can always use some weight in the rear or to ease the tongue weight. Our generator and gas can only weight about 60 pounds. I think that the firewood we carry (when we can have campfires) is heavier, but we usually only have the generator. We use it more often to assist others as our solar panels usually keep us topped off.

George
WB4IPB

Interesting info guys - thx.

I asked because I've worked with utility trailers and making sure you balance the load has been crucial - too much weight behind the axles can make for a "fun" ride...

(yea, you only do that once!)

Believe Me, weight distribution is VERY important! I came very near learning the hard way one year. It was windy, and I had our extra well water, firewood and chairs all in the back (Bath & Tub), and evidently not enough weight in the front. Jack-knifed going down a short hill, and by the Grace of God, the on-coming traffic (two-lane highway) was far enough a way, and I saved it! Just had to have about ten guys help me get it up at the campsite because it was twisted a bit.

All of the firewood goes over the axles anymore.

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Formerly 2176B Classic since 1988, needs work!
Now 2600TFB since May 2017
1982 G20 3/4 Ton Chevy Sportvan
Navy Vietnam Vet

For the bumper end caps I drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the bumper directly below the top one and place a length of braising rod with a right angle bend on one end and feed down through the top to bottom holes to secure the caps. For someone less cheap than me, you may want to get long skinny bolts with wingnuts to secure the caps.

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My Great Wife Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
Formerly owned 1705T and 2310H
2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap
Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch
Amateur Radio K3EXU