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Old 10-01-2016, 03:09 PM   #1
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Default Left Front Cable Snapped

My left front cable just snapped about two inches from where it attaches to the underside of the top. What now? I don't know if you spice a piece on or buy a cable. But where? Any suggestions. I was planning on going camping tomorrow.
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Old 10-01-2016, 03:35 PM   #2
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Very sorry to hear that. Unless your going camping with several strong friends, you may have to put that off. Three or four friends to lift that section while you push the "up" button, then place a proper length of 2 x 4 or two under the top is a bit chancy. You can order a cable set/kit from J & R. The top must be separated from the bottom, etc. The operation is in "search" section. If you DO order the cable set/kit, double check your seal and the guide blocks in case you need any of that stuff. Better to do it all at once. Best of luck though.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:23 PM   #3
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Thanks for the tips. I religiously lubricated the cables under the trailer but it didn't break under the trailer it broke a few inches above the attachment point on the top. I don't even know how you could lubricate where it broke. Do you need 2x4's or 4x4's to hold up the top?
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:39 PM   #4
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Johnnie, Sounds like your taking care of the cables, except the highest stress area. With the top in the up position (kinda mute now), there is a CAP BOARD. Inside, you'll see it by looking at the top of the lower wall. If you visually locate the cables outside, then remove that respective cap board, you'll see the upper pulley and cable. Several times a year (between outings) I put about 6 good drops of sewing machine oil on the outboard side of the pulley and about 20 drops to the inboard side. Then I lube any cables I can see/reach, lower the top and do any cables I can see/reach again. Hope this makes sense. In order to oil that high stress area you must remove those cap boards. Hope this helps now and in the future.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnie View Post
Thanks for the tips. I religiously lubricated the cables under the trailer but it didn't break under the trailer it broke a few inches above the attachment point on the top. I don't even know how you could lubricate where it broke. Do you need 2x4's or 4x4's to hold up the top?
Johnnie, you have to unscrew the trim piece over the top of the lower half from the inside (with the top up). There are several screws along that piece, once they are out you can lift the trim off and you have access to the upper length of cable and the pulleys that are there.

I've used 2x4s to support the top when I've adjusted the cables. I DON'T think you actually have to "separate" the two halves to insert a new cable. I think you could do it with the trim rail off to feed it down on both sides of the pulley.

Rather than several strong friends, you could also buy a farm jack to raise the unsupported corner.

I would actually make my own cable if I had to replace one, rather than buying a set that are pre-made. You can find appropriate cable and the needed fittings at places like Home Depot or ACE Hardware.

Edit: I see Treeclimber beat me to the post again. He's saying the same thing as me about access to the cable ends.

- Jack
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Old 10-01-2016, 05:19 PM   #6
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Again thanks for all the tips. I found the trim cap. I found the 3/16 dia galvanized cable on line. But I don't know how I am going to put the fittings on the end of the cable that go through the frame behind the wheel well. Is there a modification like an eye bolt? The cable looks like it has threaded bolt attached to it(welded?). I also don't know how long the cables are. I plan on researching the proper swage tool and get some 2x4's. I have written a email to J&R but I don't even know if they sell parts. Their web site doesn't have much.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:33 PM   #7
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Again thanks for all the tips. I found the trim cap. I found the 3/16 dia galvanized cable on line. But I don't know how I am going to put the fittings on the end of the cable that go through the frame behind the wheel well. Is there a modification like an eye bolt? The cable looks like it has threaded bolt attached to it(welded?). I also don't know how long the cables are. I plan on researching the proper swage tool and get some 2x4's. I have written a email to J&R but I don't even know if they sell parts. Their web site doesn't have much.
Midget Trailer in Belleville, Ohio sells cables.
http://hilotrailerparts.webs.com/apps/webstore/
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:22 PM   #8
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I just got back from Lowes looking at cable. They have 3/16 galvanized steel cable for $0.50 per foot and 3/16 stainless steel for $0.58 per foot. I am curious, for $0.08 per foot more and given the corrosion issue, why wouldn't you use stainless steel for the lift cables? If I had a way to put the adjustment bolt on the end I would be using stainless steel. I imagine you could use a stainless steel eye bolt for adjustment but you would have to put another loop in the cable which could possibly create a weak point. The marine industry uses stainless steel everywhere. Has anyone used stainless? What's the issue besides cost?
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Old 10-02-2016, 04:04 PM   #9
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Johnnie - you ask a very good question!

I see nothing wrong with stainless steel cable as long as it has the same tensile strength as the other cable. I believe, that the original cables in a HiLo are "aircraft grade", (used to move control surfaces) so they are of a certifiable strength and resistance to fraying.

I think, as long as you use an eyelet at the cable end to go into the eye bolt (as in this picture): [http://image.shutterstock.com/displa...le-1018971.jpg there should not be any weakening of the cable.

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Old 10-02-2016, 10:41 PM   #10
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Default cable replacement

This is the document on cable replacement. It is fifteen pages with some color pictures. Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD. 3-3-2010. A member of my HiLo club had to replace his cables on two different RVS. He only had to spend about $18.00 for parts. You can do this repair!!
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