Steel tubing in side wall - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

dannylvn2009 · 12-28-2015, 12:22 PM

Bought a used '90 20 ft Funlite from my parents. They bought from a guy who did some "creative engineering" to the passenger side rear corner. I noticed the outside bottom corner molding was not attached. Pulled whole corner (outside) off. Found square tubing was rusted and falling apart from ceiling down to bottom to top section. Question is (1) has any one replaced one or made another repair? Thinking of two options make a replacement from a new tube or a piece of lumber. but weight i know is a consideration. Found multiple leaks from PO's "fixes" as well as large chunk of fiberglass missing from his fix. Also are the windows pretty generic or special size for HiLo? PO took out rear cantiliever and put a window AC in (maybe reason why leaks started?)

Help I want to keep this for a long time and appreciate it.

RichR · 12-28-2015, 02:16 PM

Welcome to the Forum!

It sounds like you got a new hobby! There has been much discussion here by members that have done some pretty extensive repairs and rebuilds. You can do some searches for repairs and also check in because I'm quite sure someone will post something that will be of help.

RichR
Moderator

Garry · 12-28-2015, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannylvn2009

Bought a used '90 20 ft Funlite from my parents. They bought from a guy who did some "creative engineering" to the passenger side rear corner. I noticed the outside bottom corner molding was not attached. Pulled whole corner (outside) off. Found square tubing was rusted and falling apart from ceiling down to bottom to top section. Question is (1) has any one replaced one or made another repair? Thinking of two options make a replacement from a new tube or a piece of lumber. but weight i know is a consideration. Found multiple leaks from PO's "fixes" as well as large chunk of fiberglass missing from his fix. Also are the windows pretty generic or special size for HiLo? PO took out rear cantiliever and put a window AC in (maybe reason why leaks started?)

Help I want to keep this for a long time and appreciate it.

Danny, the windows are generic but could vary from year to year. Joel at Midget RV in Ohio could probably tell you what brand was used in your unit. He was the plant manager at Hi-Low.

sam · 12-28-2015, 08:35 PM

I,m thinking you have a Funlite with a steel tubing frame. We have done extensive wall rebuilding due to water dammage. I have not had to replace tubing. I would weld in another piece of steel. All of your windows need to be taken out and resealed due to the age of the trailer. Our is also a 1990 25ft.Clasic. You will have to figure out the source of your water leaks and repair. Post pictures of any repair areas you need advice on. Do a serch for many back posts on rebuilds/repairs. Here is the info to get to my repair story. 3Sam TLPX's Library Photobucket 4-6-2014. Window resealing 7-31-2012. You tube also has a video on window resealing. Keep the questions coming and welcome to the forum.

dannylvn2009 · 12-29-2015, 11:08 PM

Well found source of leaks:

1. awning attachment to sidewall
2. plumbing vent at roof
3. vent fan above shower

So far am finding rust through at roof line, above window, and below window by dinette. This is quite extensive.

will look at other posts from the forum and get a plan.

sam · 12-30-2015, 08:16 PM

You have found several of the usual spots for water leaks. Here is a back post by a service advisor for HiLo. 7-31-2010. Reattaching awning bracket by Sam Shields. DH did this repair and it works. Another interesting repair story. Demolition begins by Garyk52.

dannylvn2009 · 01-13-2016, 08:46 PM

Well I think I have stepped into the world of a completes rebuild

I am attaching photos from todays tear down.

hilltool · 01-14-2016, 03:58 PM

Definitely looks like a project.

sam · 01-14-2016, 07:15 PM

dannylvin2009,You can do this just take your time.

dannylvn2009 · 01-18-2016, 12:54 AM

Good thing I found a metal dealer locally where I can get 20' sections of 2" square tube for about $20 each. Just have to figure out how I will bend it to shape back corner. Straight pieces will be easier to fit. Father in law has huge shop to back into and my dad was a welder before retiring.

notanlines · 01-18-2016, 04:41 AM

Danny, contact any of your local sheet metal/louver shops, those that make louvers for new homes and the like. It is not uncommon for them to have metal benders that will handle your problem.

sam · 01-18-2016, 10:57 PM

DH is a retired sheet metal fabricator. Any good sheet metal welding shop will have a power brake that can bend metal into any specifications that you need.

Hersbird · 01-20-2016, 04:01 PM

I personally would look at doing it differently then the factory did. I patched mine back together with basically scrap wood and metal ties (which is similar to how the factory built my 93) but at some point it think newer, lighter, never rot, better insulating, structural engineered panels with aluminum skin would be the way to fix it forever.

gus · 01-27-2016, 09:01 AM

If you can get the back section with rounded corner cut, then you have the general shape of it, make a jig out of plywood, get a length of 2" square tubing and heat the part that needs bending with a torch until the heated part is red (you may have to use oxy acetylene to get it that hot) then attach one end to the jig and wrap the heated section around the jig, a little hammering may help also to get it in the shape you need.

Garry · 01-27-2016, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gus

If you can get the back section with rounded corner cut, then you have the general shape of it, make a jig out of plywood, get a length of 2" square tubing and heat the part that needs bending with a torch until the heated part is red (you may have to use oxy acetylene to get it that hot) then attach one end to the jig and wrap the heated section around the jig, a little hammering may help also to get it in the shape you need.

I would be very careful with bending a red hot piece of square tubing around a plywood jig. The jig could very well erupt in flames.

gus · 01-27-2016, 03:34 PM

Garry
the jig will be one time use only, so as long as it holds its shape for 10 seconds its ok to catch in flames, you will be amazed how red hot steel can be bent in short period of time, you can also wrapped the jig with thin sheet metal to give a little protection.

Garry · 01-27-2016, 04:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gus

Garry
the jig will be one time use only, so as long as it holds its shape for 10 seconds its ok to catch in flames, you will be amazed how red hot steel can be bent in short period of time, you can also wrapped the jig with thin sheet metal to give a little protection.

Thanks for the response Gus.

dannylvn2009 · 08-01-2016, 10:25 PM

Well after spending the last two weeks of "vacation" on my project, have found the whole starboard side resembles swiss cheese. Major amount of steel is rusted. Have tore out all of the interior paneling, most of the foam insulation (what a major piece of work that was) and replaced broken forward vent.

Time to seal her back up for now until next break from school. Found out that the fiberglass panels on outside can be rehabed to look pretty good (no TLC by PO in YEARS) with a little elbow grease.

Garry · 08-01-2016, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannylvn2009

Well after spending the last two weeks of "vacation" on my project, have found the whole starboard side resembles swiss cheese. Major amount of steel is rusted. Have tore out all of the interior paneling, most of the foam insulation (what a major piece of work that was) and replaced broken forward vent.

Time to seal her back up for now until next break from school. Found out that the fiberglass panels on outside can be rehabed to look pretty good (no TLC by PO in YEARS) with a little elbow grease.

When you get back to your project...Good Luck!

sam · 08-02-2016, 09:00 PM

You should be okay since your dad is a welder. We had rusted metal frame on our classic. Then we wire brushed and coated with rust oleum primer and rust oleum paint. Consider doing this step that was recomended by JR. Since you have taken everything off your interior walls you are now down to the interior fiberglass. Get a can of bondo and following all the directions use a chip brush and apply it to seal up any pinpoint leaks you can't see. Use an industrial respirator and have all windows and vents open. Then when dry put your wall layers back in. Your trailer will last for many years with your tlc.