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Old 10-16-2015, 10:13 AM   #1
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Default update: wall repair /windows

Have nearly completed a three week project of re-sealing windows and repairing water damage. Some observations/comments.

1st- A shout out to Sam who was,of course, correct in in her observation to get rid of all the water damaged paneling. I did so on the inside ( about three feet worth) and glued in a new piece with construction foam adhesive. The outside delamination was minor and I just spread a bit more of adhesive there when I clamped everything. Used plain white paneling and it almost matches .

2nd- Reattached hood vent covering which was the culprit to start with . Could not find much for screws to “bite” into even going up a size. Used same technique I did for windows to attach and I think it will stay in place and seal- but I may need to revisit in spring. Maybe plastic dry wall anchors in the foam? Really- this remains an issue for attaching almost anything walls inside or out.

3rd- Used Butyl tape/vulcan1116/ Lexal Caulk for re-sealing. Thanks to whoever posted that technique ( Tree??) Looks pretty bomb-proof.

4th- Original window sealing was well intact when when I pulled windows so a nice job it seems by the original install crew (14 years). Still- I would not have discovered the other issue if I had not pulled them , so........

5th- Screws. When I took out the window over the kitchen sink some screws were rusted and about 6 sheared off. However, easy to get out once window removed. (thanks whoever mentioned THAT ) To Re-install I used old screws until I got to the six busted ones and purchased stainless to proceed. Had two heads shear and two more strip when I put those in and I had to revert to putting them in , VERY slowly, with a standard screwdriver. Talked to a couple of hardware guys and carpenter who all expressed surprise that the “hardened” stainless would do that. Talked to my RV repair “guy” and I had no sooner said “I used stainless”when HE said, “I bet they stripped, huh?” He claims the stainless is “softer” than the zinc-and he always uses Zinc. On closer examination- I also thought there was a “wider” thread pattern on the Zinc than new stainless. Just saying--beware.

I’ve got one more window to do when it briefly warms up (next week) to the sixties- but below freezing here the next two nights and barely reaching fifty during the day. Of course, in 5 months this, will feel terrific! anti freeze is already in.

Thanks for the encouragement and suggestions as I dove into this. By the way- those “vibrating-do-everything” tools are real handy. Get one if you don’t have one.

Rick
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Old 10-16-2015, 12:27 PM   #2
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Default

Great post Rick. Just as an FYI, I'm pretty sure stainless screws ARE softer/weaker than ordinary galvanized steel ones. I've used stainless screws in several applications, and found them easily broken or damaged at the screwdriver tip screw interface during insertion.

I still use them, but I've found if there's much resistance during application, I have to pull them out, drill a larger pilot hole and start over. There are thread lock compounds both for metal and for wood that can be applied to help hold them in place if they seem too loose after this.

- Jack
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Old 10-18-2015, 08:43 PM   #3
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Default Repair report

Hilltool, Good to get a report on your progress. Many time owners ask for repair advice and then we never hear from them again. I hope all your repairs hold up. We are experiencing the same weather you are getting. This week we are going to winterize and put old faithful to bed for the winter.
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