Gene, As "Ruben" says I just removed/repacked and replaced my actuator. It really didn't take long. I got real lucky because the hydraulic shop had it repacked the next day. I hadn't read Alex's link otherwise the safety bar wouldn't have dropped on my cheek bone,
no damage except to my pride. Caution when dropping that cylinder! The safety bar is held only by the cylinder.
Just a few notes that I experienced: my top would not rise so I had to do it when down, however there was very little fluid spillage that way.
When removing the cable pulleys, before you remove the cable pulley bolts, wire tie the four cables together, remove the bolts, stick a wire tie thru the pulleys this will hold the cables in place, then wire tie that bundle out of the way. Repeat for the other set of pulleys.
Next: I had to remove the stainless fitting from the cylinder, then had to rotate the cylinder to get it thru the frame bracket.
Note: My hydraulic shop cleaned, sandblasted inspected internally and also the rod, painted, then they repacked and pressure tested to 2500 psi.
Install was, of course, reverse. It's best to take pictures during the evolution (close ups, no choice) so less chance of mistakes. I worked on hyd systems on Navy aircraft, so it was old hat, but I wish I had to go along with a "how to", but I needed to get on the road pretty quickly. I recommend scanning everything involved while spraying WD-40 on all bolts, nuts and large end pin.
Take your time and you'll be ok, think thru the next step, then do it.
Tree
hydrualics
Linear Mode
