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Old 07-14-2017, 09:48 PM   #1
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Default 2004 27t

Hello everyone,

Just inherited a 2004 27T from my uncle....long story short, I have no power to A/C or refrigerator. Circuit breakers are not tripped, do they need to be plugged in somehow ? Any clues ? I can hear the little girl in Forrest Gump asking me....Are you stupid ?
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:55 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome! You're not stupid, just new to Hi-Los.

First, the A/C WILL NOT run on battery power. You have to be plugged in to "shore power", and it needs to be a 20A circuit, minimum. (30A is better).

Then, you MAY have to connect a power cord, usually found in the bathroom so that power gets from the bottom half to the top half where the AC lives. I say "MAY", because my A/C power cord is permanently connected. (I think they went to the permanent connection in later models.)

The A/C will not function on AC power unless the "Master Switch" next to the "Lifting Switch" is in the "camping" position. It also has a center, "neutral" position and a lower, "lift motor" position.

Finally, of course, there's the possibility that a circuit breaker has popped.

Now, the refrigerator is supposed to work on AC, DC or propane. And it is completely "silent", unlike your home refrigerator. What happens is that a heating element or gas flame heats ammonia in a closed circuit causing it to circulate and transfer heat to the outside. It will take about 24 hours for the refrigerator to become cold enough to use after you start it.

When you say it doesn't work, how do you know? If you run the refrigerator on battery power, it will drain the battery QUICKLY, unless the battery is receiving a charge current from the tow vehicle. There is a 30A inline fuse on the DC circuit that could be blown. It is most efficient on propane. It WILL run on AC power from a 15A circuit if your converter is functioning.

And that's the last possibility: Shore power is fed to the "converter", and from there, AC power is delivered to the refrigerator and A/C. If the converter is bad, nothing will work on shore power and your battery will not receive a charge.

I've possibly confused you by now. There is a link to videos on Hi-Lo operation in the forum. Here's a link to the first one: HiLo "Video" owners manuals... youtube!

Glad to have you with us!

- Jack
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:09 AM   #3
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U4ick, (unique handle). On my 27'er, the A/C power cord is in the bedroom, street-side and stored in the upper cabinet. It's plugged in the lower half near the floor.
Jack is correct in that it takes quite a while to cool the refer. And as suggested elsewhere on this forum, check out the videos on youtube, "Hi Lo owners manual". 35 videos system operations.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
Hi and welcome! You're not stupid, just new to Hi-Los.

First, the A/C WILL NOT run on battery power. You have to be plugged in to "shore power", and it needs to be a 20A circuit, minimum. (30A is better).

Then, you MAY have to connect a power cord, usually found in the bathroom so that power gets from the bottom half to the top half where the AC lives. I say "MAY", because my A/C power cord is permanently connected. (I think they went to the permanent connection in later models.)

The A/C will not function on AC power unless the "Master Switch" next to the "Lifting Switch" is in the "camping" position. It also has a center, "neutral" position and a lower, "lift motor" position.

Finally, of course, there's the possibility that a circuit breaker has popped.

Now, the refrigerator is supposed to work on AC, DC or propane. And it is completely "silent", unlike your home refrigerator. What happens is that a heating element or gas flame heats ammonia in a closed circuit causing it to circulate and transfer heat to the outside. It will take about 24 hours for the refrigerator to become cold enough to use after you start it.

When you say it doesn't work, how do you know? If you run the refrigerator on battery power, it will drain the battery QUICKLY, unless the battery is receiving a charge current from the tow vehicle. There is a 30A inline fuse on the DC circuit that could be blown. It is most efficient on propane. It WILL run on AC power from a 15A circuit if your converter is functioning.

And that's the last possibility: Shore power is fed to the "converter", and from there, AC power is delivered to the refrigerator and A/C. If the converter is bad, nothing will work on shore power and your battery will not receive a charge.

I've possibly confused you by now. There is a link to videos on Hi-Lo operation in the forum. Here's a link to the first one: HiLo "Video" owners manuals... youtube!

Glad to have you with us!

- Jack
I have to disagree with Jack on a couple of things. The A/C will work no matter what position the master switch is in. The A/C operates on 120volts and the master switch controls only the 12 volt circuits with the exception of the refrigerator. Also, the converter proper has no control over the 120 volt circuits. The converter only supplies 12 volt power to those circuits and controls power to and from the battery. However, the 120 volt breakers are located next to the converter and they control power to the A/C, outlets, and the converter. The fridge is wired directly to the battery as is the fridge cooling fan which allows both the fridge and fan to work while traveling down the highway.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:07 AM   #5
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Well- I'm going with Jack on this one- or at least he is correct some of the time on this.

On my trailer- if the master switch is in the neutral position then I DO NOT have ANY 120 circuits working , including the air conditioning. Now, though I have never tried it- I assume if I found an adapter that would fit the AC power male plug I could run an extension cord out my bathroom window and plug it into a shore power receptacle somewhere and have AC. ------( I THINK). But, now, as I write this I realize I must drive out to the trailer now and see if all of this is true. In retrospect- I am not sure I have ever TRIED to run 120 circuits in the neutral position while plugged in- I just seem to remember I have. I'll check, unless jack checks first (his trailer is parked in his yard).

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Old 07-15-2017, 12:41 PM   #6
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Ah, Rick - you give me too much credit!

RichR, thanks - I'm sure you're right about the Master Switch controlling only DC. I was thinking of the wording in the Hi-Lo manual regarding the function of the Master Switch.

I took a bit of "license" regarding the Converter. Since all AC power comes in to it, it would be a likely "choke point" if there were AC things that didn't operate. And, if you look at the wiring diagram, AC power goes "through" the Converter box, as does DC power from the battery, through the Master Switch. It wouldn't be a stretch to think that the Master Switch could also cut off everything that went through the Converter.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the only "active" thing the Converter does is to transform AC to 12V DC to charge the battery. Otherwise, it's just a circuit breaker and fuse holder. All the work is done in the "charger" section.

AND, there IS a 30A inline fuse on the DC feed to the refrigerator, so that is a potential problem point too. There's also a 1A inline fuse to the refrigerator fan.

So, not trying to be a smartass, just trying to add to the discussion that clarifies the confusing electrical system.

- Jack
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:03 PM   #7
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Who's on first? I just stepped out to my 2003, I have a dehumidifier running full time here in S W FL. Very humid. Anyway, with that running, I went through the switching on the master, I DO have full time 120v hooked to shore power. So my master switch does not interrupt 120v. Perhaps, SOME units master switch might control 120v in "lower" and/or "travel" position. Course I don't think you'd have shore power hooked up when traveling.
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #8
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It would probably be good if the master switch or an accompanying master switch controlled the 120 volt operations. The master switch only connects the battery to the converter or to the lift pump via a hefty #6 wire. The converter runs off a branch circuit from the breaker panel which happens to reside in the same enclosure as the converter.

I got educated on the operation and wiring of the converter last month when I had to replace the converter in my daughter's Aliner. It had a 20amp Elixir converter which was going bad. We replaced it with a MFCO 25amp converter which is almost a direct replacement. Elixir which is also in Hi-Lo is no longer available.

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Old 07-15-2017, 04:46 PM   #9
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Maybe what we all call the converter should be called the the power center since the converter is only part of what's hiding behind the panel.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:59 PM   #10
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I think you're right on what to call it Rich, but its name IS "Converter".

If you have to locate a replacement, you're stuck with the "name".

- Jack
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