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Old 03-17-2016, 05:41 PM   #1
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Hi
We found a Hi-low 22 ft. several years ago -- neglected & dirty but in pretty good shape -- did a lot of clean up work on it and have enjoyed several extended trips with it in the last couple of years -- Due to some medical problems we let it sit for a couple of months (during the rainy season) and have discovered that we had a couple of major leaks. We are slowly drying it out & killing the mold but have found that there is more questions than answers.
1. how much of the inner wall is it good to remove?
2. would just adding a thin wall panel type board be too much weight?
3. am planning on using some type of FRP for the bathroom -- again -- how do I calculate the added weight problem.
4. I have cleaned the front & rear end caps caulk lines & think I will just re-caulk them without taking our the screws and replacing the caulk tape --
5. I have noticed a few pin holes in the roof -- nothing really bad & was thinking of using a fiberglass patch or a patch made with the liquid aluminum before painting with elastomeric roof paint? ideas?

I have sure enjoyed looking through the posts & gleaning ideas about this project -- it's bigger than I hoped for but not as bad as I feared -- so there is hope for that camping trip in the future. Thanks again for any ideas.
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Old 03-17-2016, 06:28 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjynks View Post
Hi
We found a Hi-low 22 ft. several years ago -- neglected & dirty but in pretty good shape -- did a lot of clean up work on it and have enjoyed several extended trips with it in the last couple of years -- Due to some medical problems we let it sit for a couple of months (during the rainy season) and have discovered that we had a couple of major leaks. We are slowly drying it out & killing the mold but have found that there is more questions than answers.
1. how much of the inner wall is it good to remove?
2. would just adding a thin wall panel type board be too much weight?
3. am planning on using some type of FRP for the bathroom -- again -- how do I calculate the added weight problem.
4. I have cleaned the front & rear end caps caulk lines & think I will just re-caulk them without taking our the screws and replacing the caulk tape --
5. I have noticed a few pin holes in the roof -- nothing really bad & was thinking of using a fiberglass patch or a patch made with the liquid aluminum before painting with elastomeric roof paint? ideas?

I have sure enjoyed looking through the posts & gleaning ideas about this project -- it's bigger than I hoped for but not as bad as I feared -- so there is hope for that camping trip in the future. Thanks again for any ideas.
Welcome to the forum! Several member have done extensive rebuilds of their trailers. You can do a search of rebuild or restoration and see their projects. The best thing to do is use something as close to the original product to keep the weight close to what it was before. After your project is complete, take it to a CAT scale and get the true weight. Kool Seal is the roof coating of choice. A couple of cross coats should cover your pin holes without any patches. I'm sure someone that has done a rebuild will chime in soon. Good luck with your project.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:44 PM   #3
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It was helpful that you posted pictures. Do a search for our repair story. 9-3-2013 Link to 3Sam TLPX's Library Photobucket. We have a 199025ft. Classic that we had to do extensive rebuilding of the upper walls due to water dammage. Tear out your walls until you hit dry areas. Especially tear out every bit of the moldy material. Use a multitool HF. I would think the moldy sections would have to all be torn out until you get to the fiberglass. The inside of the fiberglass can be coated with bondo. Follow all directions on the can an industrial respirator. The walls are in layers sheets of foam insulation/12/8th underlay then 1/8th paneling. Mine was Georgia pacific with vinyl coating on it. We used Heavy duty liquid nails from Walmart. Use big s curves to apply. Then we used a floor roller to smooth it all out. I would highly recommend you remove and reseal all your windows. With the window removed you can see the condition of your wall. We didn't have to do any interior roof repair. It is a must to cover your floors and all counter tops with cardboard and some duct tape. Use Lexel caulk around your windows. We also used a can of spray insulation to seal up any air leaks. Utube has a video about resetting your windows. I would use externabond tape on your roof. Search the net for a good price. Hope this makes sense to you. I wouldn't be concerned about the weight. Just replace all the layers and you will be fine. Rip out don't just cover the mess up with new paneling. The older HiLos are very sturdy and worth the time and effort to restore.
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Old 03-18-2016, 10:16 AM   #4
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Thanks -- makes good sense to me with all I have read & what I am seeing in my camper. I will post more pics as I progress.
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Old 03-18-2016, 09:26 PM   #5
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Welcome pjynks
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Old 03-20-2016, 03:33 PM   #6
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Welcome pjynks, You're at the right place to get answers. Where in Fla are you? I'm in Bonita Springs. If your close to another Hi Lo owner then both of you can assist each other.
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Old 03-22-2016, 05:46 AM   #7
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Want to thank you'all for the imput -- I had been looking at one of those HF tools for a while & just hadn't sprung for one -- It sure is going to make this job easier -- Started the ceiling demo yesterday -- thanks again for the advice & encouragement.
Pics to come
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:23 PM   #8
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Default Tools at HF

We used several tools from HF to repair our water damaged trailer. Luckily we now have a HF 30minutes round trip from our house. We always catch a sale or use the 20% off coupons. I remember buying several mf blades to get her done. DH got to buy a few new tools. The old store was 1/1.2 hour round trip. Most every tool now a days is made in China no matter what store you purchase at.
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Old 03-25-2016, 09:43 AM   #9
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Want to thank you all again for the input -- have been reading the other stories also --
As I take out the areas that I know are damaged -- seems to be all cieling -- the upper wall area that I have tried seems dry -- like the water ran only in the ceiling for the most part -- I am going to remove a little more to make sure of this but am thinking that I may go to the outside and work the outside first -- seal the roof -- caulk the seams -- and then come back to the inside & remodel.
One area of concern is a small area of the beam that the cables go to seems to be pretty soft -- it is only a small area just in front of the door -- I will need to address that for sure.

more pics soon
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Old 03-25-2016, 06:18 PM   #10
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Default Repairing water damage.

Just a thought. If you remove a window you will be able to see all the layers of your walls. This will also tell you if you need to rip your wall out further.
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