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Wrascal 06-15-2013 02:15 PM

New to this experience
 
Hello folks, I'm new to campers and have much to learn.

Several months ago I purchased a 2001 H-L Model 2401TD (I think) after seeing it advertised on craigslist. I first visited it shortly after a major rain storm and things inside were wet (over the protective covers). They immediately dropped the price and we had a deal. It included a heavy hitch with weight dist. and sway bars. I towed to my current location (220 miles) without incident.

NOTE: NO NOTED LEAKS IN THE SEVERAL MINOR RAINS WE'VE HAD SINCE TOWING IT HOME.

Poor etiquette here but ... on several occasions I've attempted to join this site. For some reason my (Hotmail) account was prohibited from joining and my requests for assistance to admin went unanswered. This time I used a gmail account and it was accepted ???

We have used it (in our yard), by trial and error figuring things out. Lift works, Air Conditioner works splendid, the fridge works (both propane & ac). Just two days ago I put water to it and eventually by twisting various valves got water thru the systems without any leaks. After that I fired up the propane water heater and it worked for the single session that I observed it.

I've found one overhead light that doesn't work (bulb is good) over the shower. I also have an unknown purposed switch -located on the back wall, again in the shower area. Any ideas?

The interior walls show many stains blemishes etc, they do not bother me enough to fix but I would like to take care of exterior penetration points soon.

I've not yet put water in the clean storage tank. Is there a switch to pressurize that? Could that be the one in my shower????

With temps in the 90's I've not tested the furnace yet. Also not tested - the two dirty water tanks, although the toilet does appears to be functional/ several flushes now.

So where do I begin? Right here with you knowledgable folks.

Looking forward to meeting y'all....

JackandJanet 06-15-2013 03:06 PM

Hi - Glad you're joining us. Maybe Rich will know why your hotmail account wasn't accepted. Probably in attempt to limit spam access.

You're learning about the trailer the RIGHT way - by experimenting and doing. Good on you!

There's no "pressurization" on the fresh water tank. The water is delivered by way of a DC powered electric pump that is probably in the vicinity of the hot water tank, but under a couch or something and forward of the tanks toward the faucets. When it is activated, it runs until the lines are pressurized, then cuts off and waits for the pressure to drop before running again.

In my newer trailer, the switch for the pump is near the switch for the hot water heater. It only runs if the 3-position master switch is in the "up" position.

Regarding your interior lights, I'd look for a fuse or circuit breaker. I don't know where these are located in your trailer though. You COULD have a wiring fault to that light socket. You'd have to pull the socket out to check.

I don't know about the "unpurposed" switch. Possibly, it's for an outside light. I thought I had a similar switch by my door, but discovered it was for the "porch light" outside.

There's not much to test regarding the fresh and waste tanks. Mostly, you just don't want any leaks. The fresh water tank can be sterilized with 1/4 cup bleach per 10 gals of water. Put at least 10 gals into the tank before you add any bleach though, or it will concentrate in the hot water tank which fills first.

You SHOULD be able to find an owner's manual in this forum for a model that is at least close to your model year. They don't change much at all from year to year.

- Jack

campthewestcoast 06-15-2013 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrascal (Post 19513)
Hello folks, I'm new to campers and have much to learn.

Several months ago I purchased a 2001 H-L Model 2401 (I think) after seeing it advertised on craigslist ($3000). I first visited it shortly after a major rain storm and things inside were wet (over the protective covers). They immediately dropped the price to $2000 and we had a deal. It included a heavy hitch with weight dist. and sway bars. I towed to my current location (220 miles) without incident.

NOTE: NO NOTED LEAKS IN THE SEVERAL MINOR RAINS WE'VE HAD SINCE TOWING IT HOME.

Poor etiquette here but ... on several occasions I've attempted to join this site. For some reason my (Hotmail) account was prohibited from joining and my requests for assistance to admin went unanswered. This time I used a gmail account and it was accepted ???

We have used it (in our yard), by trial and error figuring things out. Lift works, Air Conditioner works splendid, the fridge works (both propane & ac). Just two days ago I put water to it and eventually by twisting various valves got water thru the systems without any leaks. After that I fired up the propane water heater and it worked for the single session that I observed it.

I've found one overhead light that doesn't work (bulb is good) over the shower. I also have an unknown purposed switch -located on the back wall, again in the shower area. Any ideas?

The interior walls show many stains blemishes etc, they do not bother me enough to fix but I would like to take care of exterior penetration points soon.

I've not yet put water in the clean storage tank. Is there a switch to pressurize that? Could that be the one in my shower????

With temps in the 90's I've not tested the furnace yet. Also not tested - the two dirty water tanks, although the toilet does appears to be functional/ several flushes now.

So where do I begin? Right here with you knowledgable folks.

Looking forward to meeting y'all....

I had the same light and switch set-up in my older 97 towlite, both wall switch and light switch have to be on for light to work. Put good bulb in light, put wall switch to ON and move rocker switch on light, should go on, now you can operate the light from wall switch.

JackandJanet 06-15-2013 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campthewestcoast (Post 19515)
I had the same light and switch set-up in my older 97 towlite, both wall switch and light switch have to be on for light to work. Put good bulb in light, put wall switch to ON and move rocker switch on light, should go on, now you can operate the light from wall switch.

I guess that's a nice "feature". Seems a bit confusing though. :)

- Jack

Wrascal 06-15-2013 06:39 PM

ta daa
 
I just read this and within one min I had checked it out.

Absolutely right, toggling both switches eventually resulted in light on, but just briefly. I thought I'd blown the bulb - but no, toggling a second time and all was well.

I guess the electrons got lazy after sitting in this open switch. Many thanks for one less mystery.

Wrascal 06-15-2013 06:44 PM

Next question
 
Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?

I found the two valves closest to the input weird. One - or the other - would result in draining the fresh water, yet toggling just one valve would pressurize the camper. Obviously I haven't studied it; I'm just muddling along trying things out.

What I was expecting was the closest one would enable water/disable water and the second one (I was expecting) would divert the flow to whatever was on the other end; perhaps hot water tank or not.

A visual would help much.

campthewestcoast 06-16-2013 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrascal (Post 19519)
Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?

I found the two valves closest to the input weird. One - or the other - would result in draining the fresh water, yet toggling just one valve would pressurize the camper. Obviously I haven't studied it; I'm just muddling along trying things out.

What I was expecting was the closest one would enable water/disable water and the second one (I was expecting) would divert the flow to whatever was on the other end; perhaps hot water tank or not.

A visual would help much.

On most newer hi-lo's there was two valves on the backside of the water heater (didn't have it on my 97 but had it on my 06)to isolate the water so you can put antifreeze in the water lines to winterize to trailer. This would prevent antifreeze to fill the water heater and then you remove the drain plug on the water heater and drain so water doesn't freeze in the water heater and spilt the tank. I removed this set-up when I modified my hot water system, because I live in a warm climate I don't use antifreeze to winterize my trailer. I drain my water heater by removing the drain plug and open the two valves under my sink area to drain the water lines of the trailer for winter. My hot water system modification, I added a adjustable thermostat on the water heater so I can rise the temperature of the water and added an automatic thermostatic mixing valve to the back side of the water heater(that adds in cold water)so output water temp won't burn you. This gives me 9 gallons of hot water from my 6 gallon water heater.

retiredcamper47 06-16-2013 05:56 PM

As Les said, there usually are two by-pass valves at the hot water tank. Also, there are usually two valves that empty thru the floor. One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines. Mine are located near the water pump.

Bob

Norton Rider 06-16-2013 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wrascal (Post 19519)
Is there a reference that explains the various water valves?.

Check out the owners manuals and videos in the reference section of this forum.

Wrascal 06-16-2013 07:11 PM

Well that would explain that
 
"One will drain the cold water lines and the other drains the hot water lines."

Next up:
I haven't poked around the hot water tank beyond the one time when I was watching for water to go thru it ... BEFORE firing it up. I only noticed one valve there but from what y'all are saying there is a second one.

It has also been indicated that my water pump is likely in the same area and has a power switch nearby. That seems odd to me, I would expect it to be readily accessible/ not hidden down low in a cabinet.

I'll be looking for that next week - when I can get back to it.
Just finished a mess o ribs.... um, umm.


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