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Old 06-21-2013, 11:05 AM   #21
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Default For sale, real cheap

one failed RV water hose.

Debating whether I should also replace the second hose (appears to be its sibling).

ACT NOW BEFORE IT GOES ON eBAY.
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Old 06-21-2013, 11:42 AM   #22
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Garden hose -type water hose?? If that is it-be sure to replace with a "drinkable" water hose- usually white and sold in RV stores. Maybe that IS what you are talking about. So far, if that is the extent of your problems----you are doing pretty good , here.

Also- I've got a 2001 22 ft and I cannot imagine there is much difference between the two( yours and mine) as far as all components go. Mine is a mile or two away at a storeage lot and I dont have time today but tomorow if I can get over there I will snap a photo or two of my by- pass valves for winterizing. However, mine may have been set up a bit different given I live in Wiscosnin and I assume this is more critical here than down in your parts. All that said- if you dont have extensive water damage----you got a HELL OF A DEAL IMO on that set-up. Count your lucky stars.
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Old 06-21-2013, 12:46 PM   #23
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Default Yes it was

an RV type hose (one of the two that came with the camper). They were both pressurized for several days when one coupler blew off. And no, the water pressure is typical, nothing excessive.

I've now replaced it with another RV hose, but this one in bright blue with a large standoff ? connecter. I went with it because the two original white ones showed lots of dirt and I'm hoping this one will disguise the dirt better.

As I haven't had even a frost in 2-3 years I don't plan on running anti-freeze thru it, just draining and leaving them all open. Doing that will ensure an extra cold winter.

I can't tell how bad my water damage is; from my viewpoint as long as they stay upright on the walls then I'm OK with it. If I get ambitious I might try and cover them up with a sealer/paint - or wallpaper. Function over beauty.

Any bidders for the old blown hose? (Sexy new one shown for comparisons only).
NO LOW-BALLERS!
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:38 PM   #24
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The white water hoses are made for drinking water. The material they are made of will not give you a rubber or vinyl taste. The blue one is a household, garden variety hose and it will affect the way the water tastes in your trailer. Just thought you should know this.

Bob
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Old 06-21-2013, 02:50 PM   #25
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And, Wrascal, you should not connect your RV hoses directly to "line water pressure" and leave them pressurized. You should buy a water pressure regulator (they sell them in Camping World, I have one like this: In-Line Water Regulator Gauge Combo - Lead Free - Valterra A01-1124VP - Faucets & Inlets - Camping World) and put it on the supply end of the hose. Mine reduces the supply pressure from about 75-80 psi at the faucet to 45 psi through the hose and inside the trailer. You can buy them without the pressure gauge too, but make sure you get a brass one (not plastic) and don't just buy a common one at Home Depot or Lowes. You want one made especially for RV use.

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Old 06-21-2013, 03:47 PM   #26
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Default RV water hose

Quote:
Originally Posted by retiredcamper47 View Post
The white water hoses are made for drinking water. The material they are made of will not give you a rubber or vinyl taste. The blue one is a household, garden variety hose and it will affect the way the water tastes in your trailer. Just thought you should know this.

Bob
I compared both white and blue side by side - they were both marketed the same - IE: RV drinking water/free of all the nasty types of materials. I just liked the large standoff and the bright blue. I think it cost a buck more than the white one.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:51 PM   #27
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Default Pressure regulator

"Wrascal, you should not connect your RV hoses directly to "line water pressure" and leave them pressurized."

I previously considered one then figured I'd pick one up somewhere down the line. I believe in this case it was just an old hose that's out lived its life. That's why I'm considering replacing both hoses.
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:56 PM   #28
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Default Misadventures

Well today I went back to the waste tanks. The gray was still full but the black was a tiny bit low ... checking underneath I could see it drip - drip - dripping from around the discharge tube. As this is currently my tight spot/close to the ground with just enough room to look but not able to climb under, I don't know how they attach to each other.

Is there a gasket clamped between them or just glue/sealant, etc?
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:02 PM   #29
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Default I fixed the drip, drip, dripping

by emptying the two dirty tanks. As hoped for the black water looked like fresh water with no paper, chunks or odors. The gray water (emptied secondly) actually had a moment of cloudiness before clearing up. So .... one more thing completed on my to do list.

Of course I still need to stop the drip when tank is being used.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:21 PM   #30
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Default My first real failure

is my water pump.

Leadup:
After my sewer flush checkout I filled the fresh water storage tank (and will observe it for 24 hours); I also toggled the discharge valve several times and am happy that it opens and seals properly.

Assuming it is still holding water then tomorrow I'll add Clorox. I haven't a clue how big this holding tank is nor how much Clorox to use. Guess I'll just wing it and then do multiple flushes for several days. I am aware that (once I get a running pump) I should run the cold water (but not the hot side? is that the current consensus?) to flush the lines with Clorox treatment.

I would think the hot side tank would be a greater problem area and could also use treating.

Problem:
the pump doesn't pump; the motor runs and it sounds like it's trying but no joy. I gave it about 5 min. to prime then shut it down. It'll be a bugger to get to as it's behind some plumbing and then bolted down to the floor. Any hints or tips will be eagerly read.



I wonder if it can be fixed (parts availability) or if it is even worth it, I would imagine it shouldn't cost too much ???

The best helpful tip will be invited over for burgers and beer Sunday. Plus I also have room for another camper or two.
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Old 06-21-2013, 04:44 PM   #31
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Default Another discovery

that I made today is that I have a DC distribution box. I'd seen it before (bolted to the floor between the converter and the water heater) but paid it no attention. I just assumed all this was wired directly to the converter box, but nope, an assumption bit me once again.

This time I gave THE BOX a good look-see (what is that thing?). I popped off the cover and found many additional 10A fuses (plus one that was black and labeled 1A). I guess I also need to add them to my shopping list.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #32
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The pressure regulator is used to protect the RV's interior plumbing too. My lines are rated to 100 psi, but I don't know if that rating degrades with age.

I move chlorinated water through the hot water tank too. But I make sure it is flushed with "plain" water right afterwards. As I recall, the disinfecting rate is 1/4 cup Clorox per 10 gals water. You need to put about 10 gals water into the fresh tank first, before adding any chlorine, because the hot water tank is filled first. If you dump all the chlorine in with the first bit of water and the hot water tank is empty, it will all go into the hot water tank. Use the pump and the various faucets to move it through all lines.

There ought to be an owner's manual in this forum that tells you the fresh water quantity. I suspect the fresh tank is 30 gals, and the hot water tank is probably 6 gals.

- Jack
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:34 PM   #33
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Default Regulators AND flappers

I had to make an emergency run to Walmart for my lady this evening and while there I accidentally found the RV department. It was clear across the store, opposite from where my grocery list items were eventually found. They had water regulators so I picked one up, $8-$9, solid brass with an inlet screen.

Later on - as one end of my water hose was still hanging free I decided to reattach it to the trailer - just to keep it clean. This hose is now regulated, attached, but turned off.

While re-hooking the hose to the camper I observed yet another new thing about it. I have a flapper type door vent above my sink window. It was in the latched position. I realized it was about where the over the stove hood is located and deduced that it's the vent. Something I wouldn't have considered if I hadn't seen it. Now I know I need to open it while camping and secure it for the road.

If I discover many more items I'm gonna have to create a check list.

Why hasn't one already been created for us simple minded ones?
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:09 PM   #34
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Default Lowering checklist

Check out this thread. The original poster has created a lowering checklist and it would be recommended to use this until you feel comfortable with the operation of your HiLo.

Lowering Checklist
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:28 PM   #35
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Default So little time

to play today, but I did remove the pump (SHURflo 2088-403-144), disassemble the pump, and found absolutely nothing to indicate that it had ever been used. The diaphragm was immaculate, no visible cracks in the pump, etc. Reassembled it but then had leave it ... to be an unwilling guest of some friends of my dearest. At least the boston butt was fine!

Eventually I got home and re-installed it. Same-same, the motor runs but no suction. So ... enough screwing around with this ....

I went to Amazon and ordered a replacement.

SHURflo 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution, $68 delivered. Tuesdays delivery will see me revisiting this item.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:41 PM   #36
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Do you have an antifreeze intake line on the tank side of the pump. If so, the valve may be turned to pull in antifreeze instead of water from the tank. It may be just sucking air. Also, make sure you have a few gallons of water in the tank to be sure the dip tube is submerged in the water.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:55 PM   #37
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Default As I wasn't sure

of many things (sucking air and/or a blocked pickup tube) I tested the pumps action by placing my thumb directly over the input side of the pump /while the motor was running. No suction.

I found a complete replacement pump for $58 but decided to do a complete unit for the additional $10.

The packrat that I am I'll just chunk the old one into a corner and forget about it. One day my family estate can auction it off.
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:23 PM   #38
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Default Another mystery RESOLVED

All this time I've been unhappy with the previous owner for tying the window shades down creating a very dark camper interior.

Well today I noticed a one-half inch thick white band along the bottom of these blinds. Getting all touchy feely and poking around I discovered that my blinds can be pulled upward at this point. Doing so changes the blinds from private to lightly covered. WOW, why didn't someone mention this?

They've been in this position for so long that the pleats have taken a set, so chances are that they didn't know either; perhaps they've been in this position since new.

It sure is nice to now have daylight in the camper. Apologies to the former owner for my dark thoughts!
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:10 AM   #39
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Default Still NO shipping notice from Amazon

that's very unusual, they've previously always shipped my items their first work day back. As I guess it won't be in today I'll be looking for another project.

Oh yeah, question .... am I correct in assuming that I should leave one faucet open when priming my water pump? I've tried it both ways - with no success - but it seems to me that water being pumped in needs the room that air is occupying.

Incidentally, I still have my blown RV water hose available, now FREE.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:47 AM   #40
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did you fill your water tank up? sounds like you have the hose hooked up to the city hose connection. open the 4x4 inch door on the front street side and there should be a cap you need to open and fill with water
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