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Old 06-21-2013, 04:44 PM   #31
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Default Another discovery

that I made today is that I have a DC distribution box. I'd seen it before (bolted to the floor between the converter and the water heater) but paid it no attention. I just assumed all this was wired directly to the converter box, but nope, an assumption bit me once again.

This time I gave THE BOX a good look-see (what is that thing?). I popped off the cover and found many additional 10A fuses (plus one that was black and labeled 1A). I guess I also need to add them to my shopping list.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:02 PM   #32
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The pressure regulator is used to protect the RV's interior plumbing too. My lines are rated to 100 psi, but I don't know if that rating degrades with age.

I move chlorinated water through the hot water tank too. But I make sure it is flushed with "plain" water right afterwards. As I recall, the disinfecting rate is 1/4 cup Clorox per 10 gals water. You need to put about 10 gals water into the fresh tank first, before adding any chlorine, because the hot water tank is filled first. If you dump all the chlorine in with the first bit of water and the hot water tank is empty, it will all go into the hot water tank. Use the pump and the various faucets to move it through all lines.

There ought to be an owner's manual in this forum that tells you the fresh water quantity. I suspect the fresh tank is 30 gals, and the hot water tank is probably 6 gals.

- Jack
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:34 PM   #33
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Default Regulators AND flappers

I had to make an emergency run to Walmart for my lady this evening and while there I accidentally found the RV department. It was clear across the store, opposite from where my grocery list items were eventually found. They had water regulators so I picked one up, $8-$9, solid brass with an inlet screen.

Later on - as one end of my water hose was still hanging free I decided to reattach it to the trailer - just to keep it clean. This hose is now regulated, attached, but turned off.

While re-hooking the hose to the camper I observed yet another new thing about it. I have a flapper type door vent above my sink window. It was in the latched position. I realized it was about where the over the stove hood is located and deduced that it's the vent. Something I wouldn't have considered if I hadn't seen it. Now I know I need to open it while camping and secure it for the road.

If I discover many more items I'm gonna have to create a check list.

Why hasn't one already been created for us simple minded ones?
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Old 06-22-2013, 12:09 PM   #34
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Default Lowering checklist

Check out this thread. The original poster has created a lowering checklist and it would be recommended to use this until you feel comfortable with the operation of your HiLo.

Lowering Checklist
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:28 PM   #35
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Default So little time

to play today, but I did remove the pump (SHURflo 2088-403-144), disassemble the pump, and found absolutely nothing to indicate that it had ever been used. The diaphragm was immaculate, no visible cracks in the pump, etc. Reassembled it but then had leave it ... to be an unwilling guest of some friends of my dearest. At least the boston butt was fine!

Eventually I got home and re-installed it. Same-same, the motor runs but no suction. So ... enough screwing around with this ....

I went to Amazon and ordered a replacement.

SHURflo 4008-101-E65 3.0 Revolution, $68 delivered. Tuesdays delivery will see me revisiting this item.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:41 PM   #36
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Do you have an antifreeze intake line on the tank side of the pump. If so, the valve may be turned to pull in antifreeze instead of water from the tank. It may be just sucking air. Also, make sure you have a few gallons of water in the tank to be sure the dip tube is submerged in the water.
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Old 06-22-2013, 08:55 PM   #37
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Default As I wasn't sure

of many things (sucking air and/or a blocked pickup tube) I tested the pumps action by placing my thumb directly over the input side of the pump /while the motor was running. No suction.

I found a complete replacement pump for $58 but decided to do a complete unit for the additional $10.

The packrat that I am I'll just chunk the old one into a corner and forget about it. One day my family estate can auction it off.
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:23 PM   #38
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Default Another mystery RESOLVED

All this time I've been unhappy with the previous owner for tying the window shades down creating a very dark camper interior.

Well today I noticed a one-half inch thick white band along the bottom of these blinds. Getting all touchy feely and poking around I discovered that my blinds can be pulled upward at this point. Doing so changes the blinds from private to lightly covered. WOW, why didn't someone mention this?

They've been in this position for so long that the pleats have taken a set, so chances are that they didn't know either; perhaps they've been in this position since new.

It sure is nice to now have daylight in the camper. Apologies to the former owner for my dark thoughts!
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:10 AM   #39
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Default Still NO shipping notice from Amazon

that's very unusual, they've previously always shipped my items their first work day back. As I guess it won't be in today I'll be looking for another project.

Oh yeah, question .... am I correct in assuming that I should leave one faucet open when priming my water pump? I've tried it both ways - with no success - but it seems to me that water being pumped in needs the room that air is occupying.

Incidentally, I still have my blown RV water hose available, now FREE.
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Old 06-25-2013, 08:47 AM   #40
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did you fill your water tank up? sounds like you have the hose hooked up to the city hose connection. open the 4x4 inch door on the front street side and there should be a cap you need to open and fill with water
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