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Old 08-10-2012, 03:37 PM   #91
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Just a thought, did you back the brakes off with the adjuster before trying to pull the hub? The brakes shoes may be catching on the drum.
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Old 08-10-2012, 03:51 PM   #92
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Just a thought, did you back the brakes off with the adjuster before trying to pull the hub? The brakes shoes may be catching on the drum.
I decided to take a break and eat a sandwich, and while I was mulling over the process, came to the same conclusion. It has been too many years since I did this! I just finished a cup of coffee, and am about to head out the door to test our hypothesis.

Thanks, Rich.

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Old 08-10-2012, 05:12 PM   #93
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Aren't you supposed rest for an hour after eating and before you jump in?
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Old 08-10-2012, 05:59 PM   #94
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Just a thought, did you back the brakes off with the adjuster before trying to pull the hub? The brakes shoes may be catching on the drum.
I am in complete agreement with Rich R. I have always replaced all my brake shoes and have run across this in the past. Probably, what happened was that when the shoes were initially installed, they were tightened too tight.

You actually are at a point of no return. The hub must come off. Try taking the tension off the brake shoe adjustment and that failing, you have to go for it and forcefully remove the drum. There is nothing to hold the drum on except the brake shoes. The worst you can expect is to have to replace the shoes, which I think is eminent, and turn the drums.

Give it the 'old college try'.

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Old 08-10-2012, 06:04 PM   #95
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Aren't you supposed rest for an hour after eating and before you jump in?
I still have the workaday mentality: go-go-go. The midday sun has a way of cooking that out of you, however. It is only 76 degrees here, but crawling around on concrete with the sun directly overhead has wilted me just a bit, so I decided to take a break and cool down before I continue on my post-trip inspection.

You hit the mark, Rich. I backed the brakes off a tad, and easily pulled the hub. In spite of our efforts, however, with everything apart and all pieces analyzed, I can find no reason for the dirt-caked grease on my left rear wheel. Everything looks perfectly normal. So I repacked the bearing and re-assembled everything. I guess it will have to remain a mystery. One theory I am working on is that the super-heated temps through the Midwest (110 degrees in SD) liquified any stray grease around the hub, which then spun out onto the wheel. At least it gives me a peg to hang the question on.

Next up is pulling the wheels on the right side where I heard off and on squealing when braking. Having updated my learning on the left side, I hope that the right side goes a little easier.

I did try JR Repair around 4 PM EST, but got an answering machine (again). I guess my only option is keep trying. In the meantime I'll do a little research to find a good n' easy patch for the stone guard bracket screw holes that tore out of the end cap.

Ron
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:19 PM   #96
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RG,

What was the thickness of the remaining brake shoes? When they get to 1/16", they are due for replacement.

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Old 08-10-2012, 06:22 PM   #97
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It's common practice to coat the wheel center hole with grease or anti cease, on wheels that fit tight to the hub especially alloy wheels to prevent them from corroding fast. Steel wheels will rust fast also if a tight fit. The previous person that removed the wheels may have done this but used a little to much grease. Can't remember if it is necessary on HI-Lo wheels, but mechanics do this without even thinking.
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Old 08-10-2012, 06:22 PM   #98
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I'm glad you had success. I think sometimes a buildup of brake dust will cause squealing. The boys at JR Repair, Jim and Rob, are the sum and total of the company. My dealer friend says Jim is the hands on repair guy and Rob is more the up front guy, so I think thy are usually up to their ears in work. Keep trying and you will eventually get in touch. They are pretty straight shooters.
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Old 08-10-2012, 07:06 PM   #99
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RG,

What was the thickness of the remaining brake shoes? When they get to 1/16", they are due for replacement.

Jerry Curtis
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I remembered your previous thread, Jerry, and checked the thickness of the brakes when the hub was off. I didn't measure, but am usually good with dimensions. The shoes are more than 1/8", maybe as much as 1/4".

Considering the excellent condition of the innards on the left, I suspect Rich is right, and I am not going find much wrong on the right--brake dust may be causing the squealing. I am going to head out there right now and check it out.

PopRichie, your idea about the grease on the wheel is a perfect fit.

Thanks everyone for all your help.

Ron
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Old 08-11-2012, 04:57 PM   #100
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Default Brakes?

A new kink in the process. When I pulled the right rear hub (after backing off the shoes a few notches), I saw that the primary (rear) shoe liner was cracked the entire length--maybe a fingernail thickness wide. I did a quick check around the web, including the Dexter manual, and saw that "hairline" cracks are considered normal and acceptable.

The question is: what constitutes a "hairline crack?" Since my lining crack runs lengthways and appears to be an even height throughout, I assume it is okay. At the same time, because it runs slightly side-to-side like a river's course, it makes sense that it could present an edge to the rotating hub and cause a squeal.

I am inclined to just close it all up--the bearings/grease look great and the inner hub surface is a smooth as silk--and run it a while. Any thoughts?

Ron
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