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Old 07-28-2012, 03:56 PM   #81
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I'm pretty sure it's grease leaking from the hub. Could be it was overfilled the last time the bearings were re-packed. Could be the grease seal has gone bad.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:20 PM   #82
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PopRichie77 "rgcronk, that wheel pic looks like someone painted the black center piece and it ran down the wheel, but I can't really tell from the pic. Pull the wheel there might not be anything wrong."

Fireballsocal "I'm pretty sure it's grease leaking from the hub. Could be it was overfilled the last time the bearings were re-packed. Could be the grease seal has gone bad."

Thank you for your suggestions. The black deposits were not there when I left on my long trip, and I don't think they were there at the half-way point in Illinois, which means they happened along the way back home, but I haven't gotten into that problem yet.

I have been trying to figure out what happened with the rock shield over the front window, and I think I have it deciphered. There are six holes on each side: two next to the window, two in the area of the present bracket but doing nothing--on one side filled with a filler, the other side with screws-- and the two that the bracket was mounted to before the wind tore them out in SD.

After surfing the net looking at pictures of Hi-Lo rock shields, I can see that the original shield was not much bigger than the window and the original mounting point for the brackets was next to the window. Apparently a previous owner had damaged the shield and replaced it with an oversized non-HiLo shield. The second set of unused holes was the location of the brackets when they tore out from wind or misuse before I got the trailer. The third set of holes is where the shield was remounted slightly offset from the second set of holes. Those were the holes caused when the SD wind tore the shield loose on my shift.

Thus, we have six holes, and with the current rock shield, none of them are useable. The skin they are mounted into is flexible and only about 1/8 inch thick--it wouldn't/didn't take much wind to whipsaw them right out of the skin. Light tapping of the skin in the area of the original screws next to the window reveals a solid "thunk" vs. "tink" lower down, which tells me the original was mounted into a window surround structural member.

The question now is, can I find a rock shield that will allow mounting into the solid window member? I have looked all over the web for a place that sells rock shields, without luck. I know there must be some place; do you have any ideas where to look? I would like to fix it with a Hi-Lo part, but anything that allows a solid fix is a candidate.

Once I have a reasonable solution for mounting the shield, I will have to clean the multiple holes and fill them with a solid patch. The material Hilltool suggested may do the trick; that part will have to wait until I figure out a rock shield solution. Any suggestions are welcomed.

Ron
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Old 07-28-2012, 08:10 PM   #83
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Ron

Keep checking here. Now and then you get somebody "parting-out" a trailer. From your photos it is clear that we have a totally different set up, which is interesting, because otherwise, your 2001 19 footer looks very much like my 2001 22 footer except the end is different. I have a molded ( or vacu-formed: see photo) polyethelene end "cap" that fits over the end of my top section of the trailer and it has a recessed area that the stone guard fits in. It is reminiscent, sort of, of a clam-shell case that might fit on the back of your cell phone. You appear to have the same fiberglass paneling on the front as you do on the sides except for the top. My actual guard appears to be plastic. That said- your hypothesis makes sense. Your guard does look over sized. Getting Back to my original suggestion, G-FLEX MIGHT work at filling the holes and, once hardened, be something you could sand down and re-drill-or paint, but I would test that theory out on something before I tried it. You might want to call J&R to see if they have access to original stone guards. I have never dealt with them but many on this forum have and have found them very helpful. ---edited----actually, I have no idea what is on the front of yours the more I look at it. I found a 91 funlite on the web{ http://daleycampersales.com/ } that has a similar configuration but with aluminum siding. All the other 2001s I have seen have the full end cap and recessed opening for window/stone guard.

Rick
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:55 AM   #84
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rgcronk,
Look in the Reference Library at the 2000 TowLite brochure, it looks just like yours.
It also looks like your cover is not the original as you said.
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Old 07-29-2012, 02:45 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopRichie77 View Post
rgcronk,
Look in the Reference Library at the 2000 TowLite brochure, it looks just like yours.
It also looks like your cover is not the original as you said.
Hi PopRichie--

I think you nailed it! I had come to the same conclusion, but hadn't thought about looking in the brochures. Interestingly, my trailer's VIN tag identifies it as a 1901 TL, but the tag shows it was manufactured 7/00. My interior looks the same as the 2001, different than the 2000, but the exterior looks like the 2000. It must be a 'tween model, kind of like the auto industry does when they introduce next year's model in the Fall of the year. I'll include a picture of the VIN tag so you can see what I am talking about. Reminds me of the old Johnny Cash song that went something like, "A 55-56-57-58 Cadillac Automobile."

I sent an e-mail to JR Repair last night, asking them whether HiLo could have a between model, made in 2000 but sold as a 2001. I am hoping JR has a HiLo rock shield, or at least a good suggestion of a way to brace the shield brackets so the next high wind doesn't tear them loose again.

I think I will wait to repair the holes until I figure out whether I can get a HiLo shield. When I look into the enlarged screw holes, it looks like the end cap is made from fiberglass, so I will have to find a compatible repair material. It would be nice to find a pre-colored patch material, so I don't have to sand and paint a larger area.

Maybe I will tackle the left rear wheel question today, while I wait to hear from JR Repair.

Ron
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Old 07-29-2012, 04:30 PM   #86
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Yes, I know that song, LOL. Maybe JR can come up with something. You may find that the metal cap is missing or came off the hub on that wheel, have also saw them with a hole worn in the middle from wacking with a hammer to put on. Better way is to use a screw driver and tap around the flange on the cap, this causes no damage or distortion.
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Old 07-29-2012, 06:59 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PopRichie77 View Post
Yes, I know that song, LOL. Maybe JR can come up with something. You may find that the metal cap is missing or came off the hub on that wheel, have also saw them with a hole worn in the middle from wacking with a hammer to put on. Better way is to use a screw driver and tap around the flange on the cap, this causes no damage or distortion.
Another way to put the hub cap back on is to get a socket wrench that fits over it. Tap on the socket thus putting the cap on with even pressure on the flange all the way around.
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:22 PM   #88
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Quote:
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Another way to put the hub cap back on is to get a socket wrench that fits over it. Tap on the socket thus putting the cap on with even pressure on the flange all the way around.
Your right Rich, but every body has a flat blade screw driver and if you go around it several times, it works.
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:04 PM   #89
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What you described is the way RV manufacturers do things. Their model years do not match with the calendar. A trailer manufactured in May of 2000 would be a model year 2000, while a trailer manufactured in July of 2000 would be a model year 2001.

My Roadtrek Class B is a RT model year 1996, but it's actually built on a 1995 Chevy chassis. With class B's, you can have a 1996 model year built on either a 19958 or 1996 vehicle chassis.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rgcronk View Post
Hi PopRichie--

I think you nailed it! I had come to the same conclusion, but hadn't thought about looking in the brochures. Interestingly, my trailer's VIN tag identifies it as a 1901 TL, but the tag shows it was manufactured 7/00. My interior looks the same as the 2001, different than the 2000, but the exterior looks like the 2000. It must be a 'tween model, kind of like the auto industry does when they introduce next year's model in the Fall of the year. I'll include a picture of the VIN tag so you can see what I am talking about. Reminds me of the old Johnny Cash song that went something like, "A 55-56-57-58 Cadillac Automobile."

I sent an e-mail to JR Repair last night, asking them whether HiLo could have a between model, made in 2000 but sold as a 2001. I am hoping JR has a HiLo rock shield, or at least a good suggestion of a way to brace the shield brackets so the next high wind doesn't tear them loose again.

I think I will wait to repair the holes until I figure out whether I can get a HiLo shield. When I look into the enlarged screw holes, it looks like the end cap is made from fiberglass, so I will have to find a compatible repair material. It would be nice to find a pre-colored patch material, so I don't have to sand and paint a larger area.

Maybe I will tackle the left rear wheel question today, while I wait to hear from JR Repair.

Ron
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Old 08-10-2012, 02:43 PM   #90
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I feel like I'm in one of the old Arnold Schwarzenegger movies: I'm b-a-a-c-k! After nearly two weeks, I am back to revive this old thread. Life just kept getting in the way of tackling the issues I had with my 1901T after my trip to the Midwest last month. I am still working, and nobody did my work while I was gone (although after taking nearly two weeks off and tasting a little of the free life, I am re-thinking that issue), and then we had a taste of the weather the rest of the country has been having. We were in the middle 90's over the weekend, so I just put the trailer on hold and hid out in the shade. Air conditioning is still pretty rare in this part of the country, so mostly on those hi-temp days, we just hide out.

The errant stone guard is still on hold. You may recall that those brutal S. Dakota winds tore the mounting brackets out of the trailer skin, and I have been somewhat in contact with JR Repair to see whether we can get a fix. They have not been easy to contact; phone calls and emails unanswered. I did get one email reply that said my stone guard appears to be from a newer model, and they did have a replacement for my model, but I have not heard back yet about some mounting questions I asked. I will try to call them again today. I don't blame them; I am in business, too, and sometimes a quick reply is just not possible. Maybe the fact that I am three time zones away is a factor.

Anyway, I decided to tackle the left rear wheel this morning, while temps were in the 60's (forecast to be near 80 today--a hot day for this locale). You might recall that when I looked the trailer over after my trip, I saw a blackened area radiating out from the hub. After I jacked the trailer up, I spun the wheel around a couple times, and heard and felt a pretty obvious rub, just short of a grind.

I went ahead and pulled the wheel, inspecting pieces as I went. The lug nuts were grease coated and dirty; the blackened area on the wheel appeared to be dirt-caked grease. Everything wiped off pretty easily with a clean rag. When I pulled the wheel, the plastic hub cover was actually relatively clean; I was anticipating spun grease on the inside, but nope, not there. The hub cover flange that fits between the wheel and the hub is worn through at several places at the angle where the flange bends, which would seem to indicate abrasive movement ... not sure what to make of that.

First inspection after pulling the bearing cover looked perfectly normal. The grease was normally-colored and adequate amount. I spun the hub without the wheel, and could feel a bit more resistance, and felt more pronounced but still light grinding. My impression was that the brake shoes were putting a bit more pressure on the hub than normal. I pulled the cotter key and the washer and bearing, inspecting as I went. Everything looked normal.

As I began to pull the hub, I felt strong resistance, almost a locking up. I tend to be careful--the old saying "measure twice and cut once""--applies, so when I felt the lock-up, I applied side-to-side outward light prying pressure. The hub came off with firm pressure far enough to get my fingers around the edge, but did move any further. I tried light prying with a nearby claw hammer, but when the hub did not easily come, I backed off.

Has anyone encountered the same kind of locking of the hub onto (I assume) the brake shoes when inspecting or repairing? I have done many brake jobs on the old shoe brakes in the past, and generally know what is in there, but I have not worked with electric brakes and prefer to be cautious going in. Shall I just pry the hub off, or will calamity ensue? I have read the brake threads on this forum, but I don't recall this particular issue.

It is lunch time here, so I think I will take a break and eat a sandwich, while I wait to see whether anyone has a ready answer. Maybe I will try JR Repair again, while I am at it. I appreciate your help.

Ron
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