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Old 10-07-2014, 04:20 PM   #11
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Okay, thanks! Had no idea what in the world a Guide Block was when you said that the other day. Now I know!

Unscrewing the guide sounds like a much easier task. You all are great!
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Old 10-07-2014, 05:44 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by misfit429 View Post
That is the glide block I was talking about. Not sure if that buildup of grease is covering a damage side or not from the photo. Remove the buildup and it should look the same as the side on the right. If it is damaged that would be why it won't stay on track. Replace the glide block and then reset it on the track. If the track is screwed to the outside of the trailer and you can get to all the screws, you can remove the track, slide it into the glide block, then replace the screws. Would be a lot easier than lifting the top off and guiding it back down onto the track.
Excellent post, misfit! Since I've never had this problem, I don't know if you can get to all the screws in the track. I was under the (very possibly mistaken) impression that the top one would be covered.

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Old 10-07-2014, 05:58 PM   #13
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It may be but I don't think you will have to raise the top completely off in order to get to the top screw. I can't say for sure but taking the top completely off will require aligning all the glide blocks back on the track simultaneously. I would try sliding the track into the block first.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:17 PM   #14
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I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:04 AM   #15
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Thanks! That right-angle ratchet screw driver looks like a great investment. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:20 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie b View Post
I read somewhere on this forum where someone was able to use a 90 degree screwdriver to remove the guide block from the beam , place it over the guide rail and reattach it to the beam. they said it took some time but faster than lifting the top. Harbor freight makes a small ratching screwdriver that might work as well 8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver
I remember that as well. I believe they used one of the simple right angle screwdrivers with phillips on one end and straight on the other. They also had to wedge the top and bottom sections far enough apart to get to the glide block.

Found it: Glide block replacement?
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:42 AM   #17
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Rich, looking at that post makes me think the rails CAN be removed with the top still on the trailer. That would be all that is needed if the guide block is sound.

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Old 10-10-2014, 12:41 AM   #18
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Harbor Freight has a small ratcheting wrench that accepts 1/4" bits. Just pop a #2 square head bit into it and you are ready to go. With the top up you can remove all the screws in the guide rail except the top screw. Lower the top a few inches and you can now get the top screw out. Now you can remove the guide rail from the trailer. Put a 2x4 in between the top and bottom of the trailer to give room to access the two screws in the guide block. Slide the guide rail into the guide block. Replace the lower screws first for alignment and get the top screw last. Just hope that the wood is not wet & rotted that the guide block screws into. This is the method we used the other week on a club member's trailer. Hope this helps.

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Old 10-16-2014, 08:30 PM   #19
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Done! It was really easy. Just took out the few screws on the guide rail, slipped it back onto the guide block (it was sound, just excess grease) and screwed the rail back on. No need to move the top of the camper at all (it was up the entire time).

Thanks for all of the suggestions and helpful hints!
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:28 AM   #20
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And, I checked my trailer with the top up and all screws in the guide rail are below the blocks, so no need for right angle screwdrivers on mine. I know this may not apply to ALL HiLos, but I'd bet it applies to many or most of them.

The two topmost screws are closer together than the others, so I think this gives the needed structural strength near the top. And, there should be little stress at the top of the guide rails anyway, since you should never move the trailer with the top up.

- Jack
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