manual lift
the manual lift system looks like an add on that bolts on the top of the pump with 2 bolts. could be that something would have to be removed but it looks like it could be added to a trailer that came without one?? does anyone know
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What model and year is your Hi-Lo? Neal |
towlite
it is a 2000 towlite 22 ft.
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Here's the contact information. Hi-Lo Factory Parts Neal |
Prior to my current trailer, I had a manual lift on my 2200TL. So, I suspect it could be added to your unit.
Mark |
How many times has anyone ever had to use their manual lift? I think it is a rarely used item. It is good to know you have it if you need it, but jumper cables may be a better investment. I'm just throwing that in for general debate.
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I used the manual lift one time on our Hi-Lo. Not because we needed to, I just wanted to try it. It was a real pain to use, it was hard to pump and it took a lot of pumping to fully lift the trailer. In the event that the battery ever fails to lift the trailer, I'll opt for either shore power or jumper cables or mental telepathy :rolleyes: before I'll use the manual pump again. But I do like knowing that I have the option.
Neal |
Shore power lift
I have a 94 funlite and was wondering if anyone knows if that year will lift with shore power? Mine seems to only lift with full battery power and still a little slow.
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It is possible to manually lower the unit, but you need two people. One must be by the door and pull the cable to release the lock bar. If the top has settled slightly, you will need to lift it before pulling on the cable. The other person uses a screw driver to turn a small release value on the lift mechanism. You should be able to identify it by looking for a screw type bolt head with a slot for the screw driver.
Mark |
Rich and Neal,
Manual lift used to be the ONLY lift Hi-Lo used to offer! I know because it was my job to crank the darn thing up for my folks when they had their 1967 16' Voyager. The crank was inserted onto a square headed drive screw that came out the center of the back. The bumper mounted spare had to be mounted off to the side to give straight access to the lift screw. By the way, that system was entirely mechanical, no hydraulics... Jim |
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Mine had the 20 amp breaker "fuse" from the inverter to the battery wire, that was inoperable, $2.50 to oreilly's I think it was, and replaced it, now it is working and keeping the battery up. (when I bought it the dealer gave me a new battery, so at 1st I didnt realize it wasnt charging when plugged it) so about the 4th up and down the battery was dead when it was home, and it wouldnt finish lifting the 5th time. |
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Morning Sting32 - So no manual "UP" options for the '94 Funlite? No juice, no camping? I better make sure my battery is in good shape! |
Keep a set of jumper cables just in case the battery dies. It is hard to attach them when the trailer is down so it would be good to study how you would attach them while you are at home before you actually will need them. DISASTER TRAINING!
I believe there are some posts here that have addressed that issue and how it was handled. Somebody installed external terminals for that purpose. If the battery dies you must charge it back to a point to run the lift. Power from just shore power is not enough. |
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Plus, after a few months more of dicking with my new hilo, I find that I need to amend my statement above about shore power, lol. Dead battery means (pretty much) no way to get roof up, without a jumper to a good battery! WHY? Well, shore power only trickle charges the battery, if battery is shot, trickel charge is like 2 amps, and those amps go nowhere when battery is SHOT. on mine, the top wont budge on shore power, pump runs until pressure is about 2/3rd what it need to lift. So, if you want to have a backup way to get the TOP up, I suggest you find Battery cables you can bolt on to the battery terminals, and have them safely mounted somewhere you can hook jumpercables to this when top is down (as I understand you guys on this forum, you cant get to the battery, hardly when top is down) Mine's a 5th wheel, compartment on side so I get to it same up or down. I am in the process of adding another battery to my system and BOTH batteries will have a easy disconnect so they dont go deead in storage. Same problem you will have if top is up and battery is shot, and the top has settled to the saftey rod, you got to lift a tiny bit, to release saftey... I was able to hit my safety with a LONG punch and hammer and I tell you it scared the SNOT right to my jeans... (scary as hell, :eek: and very potentially dangerous :o, but hey, I am an old farm boy :rolleyes: ) It would been better if I had the manual pump for this reason, when top is up and stuck on safety. But I now park the 5th wheel with enough room to run jumper cables, lol. I will not try hammer and punch thing again! I also since have sworn to keep top on blocks when in storage (if I store with it up, like summertime, where I might load a few things a night during the week). |
Yikes - I bet that WAS exciting.
I like your idea of mounting cables/remote battery terminals, so that you could at least get a jumper battery hooked up. Might be worth carrying an extra battery somewhere just for that purpose I suppose. Heavy and expensive, but would be worth it, sounds like. |
cptmoney
We always carry jumper cables when we camp. If our trailer batteries run down (and they have before we made some improvements), we jump the trailer battery with the truck, and have enough power to raise the trailer to release the lock. |
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Great description of the sound! Actually, you've inspired me to consider adding yet another point to the long list of things my Hi-Lo can do that I think are cool: Musical instrument! Now, the thud whump part is easy... if only it weren't so difficult to strum the thing...:rolleyes: Thanks for the chuckle, Jim |
Sting, your comment about a battery going "dead in storage" made me think of a problem I had and wrote about some time ago.
My battery used to go dead after several weeks sitting and I finally traced the cause to the TV/FM/DVD player that had been installed in the trailer. It was always receiving power from the battery for its "keep alive memory" (channel presets I think). So, I installed a simple ON/OFF switch in its power circuit that completely takes it off the battery. I've tested my fix with an Ammeter in series with the battery - no current flow. I've left the trailer now for several months with no loss of battery charge. Before that, I was always disconnecting the battery when the trailer was not being used. - Jack |
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