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Old 05-11-2011, 02:52 PM   #1
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Default '70s HiLo luruker with questions

We've had our early 26' 1970's HiLo (serial #7001?) for about 2 years now. Trailer was used but in good shape when we bought it but it needs some maintenance.
Some of what I hope are basic questions:

1. Trailer seems to tilt towards the outside away from center so both stove and fridge tilt out. How level does the fridge (propane/12V/120V) need to be for operation?

2. There are rails along the top edges, and another rail on the door side. These rails have a groove in them like they are meant to hold a cover for the roof and perhaps some sort of awning. I have never seen anything like these. The trailer did not come with a cover and the awning was homemade. Is there a standard for these?

3. Failed to winterize and burst the copper water lines. Any pros/cons for PVC vs the flexible plastic lines?

4. Lastly, does someone have schematics for the 12V converter/charger?

Thanks!

ArkTinkerer
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:19 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkTinkerer View Post
We've had our early 26' 1970's HiLo (serial #7001?) for about 2 years now. Trailer was used but in good shape when we bought it but it needs some maintenance.
Some of what I hope are basic questions:

1. Trailer seems to tilt towards the outside away from center so both stove and fridge tilt out. How level does the fridge (propane/12V/120V) need to be for operation?

2. There are rails along the top edges, and another rail on the door side. These rails have a groove in them like they are meant to hold a cover for the roof and perhaps some sort of awning. I have never seen anything like these. The trailer did not come with a cover and the awning was homemade. Is there a standard for these?

3. Failed to winterize and burst the copper water lines. Any pros/cons for PVC vs the flexible plastic lines?

4. Lastly, does someone have schematics for the 12V converter/charger?

Thanks!

ArkTinkerer
1. Page 9 of my owners manual says, "It is especially important that your trailer be level for most efficient operation of you refrigerator." I don't think being off by an inch or two would make a whole lot of difference.
2.A picture would clarifiy this. Could it be the rain gutter?
3. My trailer is all PVC
4. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...g-diagram-113/
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Old 05-11-2011, 03:31 PM   #3
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Pex piping and Sharkbite fittings will make your plumbing job a whole lot easier. The Pex and Sharkbite fittings can be purchased at Home Depot or probably any major hardware store.

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Old 05-11-2011, 04:22 PM   #4
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Tilting may be caused by the outer frame supports sinking into the plywood floor at the outer edge. All the weight of the top when up is on the lower side walls.
This type of ammonia gas fridge uses gravity to return the ammonia back to the bottom, to far out of level and the ammonia won't return to the bottom, this will ruin the fridge.
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Old 05-11-2011, 05:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArkTinkerer View Post
There are rails along the top edges, and another rail on the door side. These rails have a groove in them like they are meant to hold a cover for the roof and perhaps some sort of awning. I have never seen anything like these. The trailer did not come with a cover and the awning was homemade. Is there a standard for these?
On my Hi-Lo, there is an aluminum raling on both sides of the camper - it holds down the rubber roof. One side has a groove in it for the awning. Perhaps that is what you are seeing? Here's a pic - but it is hard to see the groove from this distance.

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Old 05-13-2011, 08:48 AM   #6
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Default Awning extrusions

Attached is a drawing of a similar extrusion. Based upon the name it appears they are meant to hold an awning/cover.

For the 12V supply/battery charger I was hoping for a schematic of the unit. I have the original paperwork that came with the trailer and it has the wiring diagram but the unit is not putting out power. I should have the make/model number somewhere. What is the view of this forum about putting up scans of the manuals from my appliances? Is there a files section for uploading that sort of thing? I would think people would find them useful and can't see why the manufacturers would object after 40 years...

Pex looks easier than PVC for the plumbing but I've never done it before. Anyone have any issues with leaks in PEX? Any issues with using it near the water heater? I'm also looking at relocating or adding a water inlet near the left rear. This matches most of the newer models. My older model has it at the right front. Rather a pain to have to run a longer hose to that corner every time.

ArkTinkerer
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:46 AM   #7
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Pex will work out great. Takes vibration and light freezing better. Easy to install also. Have not used the sharkbite fittings but see them being used in many places. No problem with the pex close to the hot water heater. Pex is used in most homes now. Have found that manufactures are not willing to give up their schematics. You can download their owners and parts manuals for free but not schematics. The groove in the channel is for the awning. If you can't figure out the problem with the power supply, I have one that I took out of my Hi-Lo that was working at the time. Wanted a new one that has the battery minder circuit. Would sell it if anyone wants it. Don't know why it would not work on a older Hi-Lo.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:10 PM   #8
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ArkTinker,
You haven't looked the forum all over yet, I guess. Check the Library out, that's where manuals are put, many there now. Yes, you can scan and upload. Your molding picture is for an awning. To my knowledge there never was a schematic for any of the battery chargers. This is a guess but I would say your charger is a transformer and 1 or 2 diodes, very simple design.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:32 PM   #9
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Decided to go with CPVC. The PEX itself wasn't too bad but the connections were $6+ each and they didn't have everything I needed.

Will try and get scans of my manuals and upload them. One nice thing about this trailer was the previous owner kept all the docs.

On the awning "rail", is I can't imagine that you have to slide the awning in from one side all the way down??? Does the awning have a "tube" on the edge you can squeeze into the rail? It doesn't appear that this was designed to hold an awning to the side while the trailer was in tow like the modern ones. It seems like it would be a real pain to put up the awning or attach the roof cover.

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Old 05-14-2011, 11:40 PM   #10
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Ark,

Our 1969 Bon Voyage came with a similar extruded channel. In fact it is for mounting an awning. Our trailer didn't come with an awning... we added one in 2004 and even after all those years, the new one had the same diameter mounting bead as the old ones apparently had.

We bought a 10' long awning and I installed it myself. It wasn't the easiest job I've had, but it wasn't frustrating either. You'd think it would be impossible to thread a continuos aluminum bead through that continuous extruded channel, but after cleaning the channel REAL well, applying some silicone grease the full length and opening up the pinch points (little dents)... I was able to push it home by myself.

Jim
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:44 PM   #11
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Does the awning hang on the side even when on the road? If so, what additional hardware is required?

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Old 05-16-2011, 07:09 AM   #12
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Check Fishermark picture above, there are vertical arms a spring loaded roller that the awning rolls up on, the end of the awning stays in that groove.

as RichR pointed out the size has to fit the Hi-Lo these are for reference only

Check this out may help explain. http://compare.ebay.com/like/3704922...Types&var=sbar

http://www.rverscorner.com/RV_Awning...Pictorial.html
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Old 05-16-2011, 10:50 AM   #13
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You have to keep in mind that Hi-Lo trailers require a different size of awning, different arms, and a special mounting bracket. Since the awning only attaches to the upper half the arms are shorter and the bottom mounting bracket attaches to the bottom of the top half. This also requires the length of the awning that rolls out to be shorter(I think) than a standard travel trailer awning. A&E brand awnings are the standard factory installed awning.

Take a look at the pictures in the above post and you will see pretty well how the awning mounts.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:59 PM   #14
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Artinkerer,

Everything Rich and Pop wrote is true... unless you get a completely different style of awning, as we did.

Our 1969 was too old to install the standard awning that Hi-Lo's came with from the factory. I couldn't find the extensions needed to mount the bottom of the support arms, and the top half is slightly shorter. As previously written our trailer did come with a standard-size awning rail installed. Our local RV parts guy found an awning made by Carefree of Colorado. In 2004 the model name was Freedom III. This is a crank operated box awning with support arms that fold up into the box case when the awning is retracted. In this style awning the roller actually mounts on the trailer (slides onto the awning rail). There are two little bottom brackets to install and that's it... relatively easy to install. Here is a link to the current version of what we purchased:

Carefree Freedom Wall Mount Patio Awning

Now we have the regulation Hi-Lo awning on our 2004 Hi-Lo. Comparing the two, I'll say the Carefree awning is OVERWHELMINGLY easier to deploy... really all you do is crank it out and rig the two support arms. But in all honesty, the A & E awning is a lot sturdier in that it will stand up to higher winds and has MUCH stronger support arms. One nice thing about a box awning is that the fabric is protected from sun and road dirt when its retracted, since it folds itself into the box case. I appreciate this since I just finished dealing with sun-rotted awning fabric on our 2004.

The 1969 Hi-Lo photo album in my personal info. area has a picture of said trailer with the Carefree Freedom III awning installed.

Jim
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:02 PM   #15
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Found a line of rivets down the side of the top half at the aft end of the trailer. These had a bit of fabric in them like there may have been an attachment to make the awning into a screened room kind of thing. Didn't find the equivalent up front though.

I have not found any mounting holes that seem to be for supports for the awning anywhere at the bottom of the top half or on the bottom half.

I'm guessing that the duplicate rails at the very top edge on both sides were for some sort of storage cover.

Whoever said the 12V supply was simple was spot on--the circuit is just a center tapped transformer with two rectifiers and either a tranzorb or MOV and a relay to disable the battery. The battery charger is on another board. Based upon the output voltage, this thing won't charge the battery at all until the battery is below 12V.

I'm looking at adding a couple bridges to it to get full better efficiencies. That will also split the taps and allow me to use 24V to drive a better charge circuit. Have to decide if its worth the effort. At a minimum I'll add some capacitance to smooth it out a bit. Anyone want to weigh in on the reliability of new electronic power supplies/chargers? This thing is simple but one big mass of copper in the transformer. Cleaned the contacts and its good to go.

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Old 05-17-2011, 12:12 AM   #16
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Default Awning HiLo

Thoughts on awnings. Awnings are very expensive to replace..We use a awning strap tie down. It stakes in the ground goes all the away across the awning and stakes down on the other side of the awning. This helps a great deal with windy cionditions. If it extremenly windy weroll up the awning. This can be purchased at most Rv stores ect. Any awning should be washed and dried real good. Apply a product like Son of a gun. The extra TLC at the beginning of the season pays big dividends..The dirt can easily be broomed off and the awning stays really clean. If you can't afford to replace your awning right away then you could use an easy up shelter. I always see them on sale. Put son of a gun on both sides of the awning. Kinda like wax on a floor. the dirt goes on the protector rather than directly on the awning. We do this yearly and get many compliments on how clean the awning is and how clean it seems to stay. Always roll up the awning if you are going to be away for the day. If you have to break camp and the awning is wet put it out to dry at home to avoid mildew. We always have old towels to dry off the dew from the awning before rolling up for travel. We have also rolled up the awning the night before departure. I carry a soft full sized broom that I wrap a towel around th knock off leaves ect.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:22 AM   #17
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The output of the charger should be a min of 13.5 to 14.8, if not there is a problem.
You said, rectifiers, if it has the old selenium rectifiers, they probably need replaced. When they age the output drops off.
The chargers in newer Hi-Los are electronic no transformer.

If you want to replace that old charger get one of the newer kind, no transformer, I think these are one of the best chargers.
http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_...ters_9200.html
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:30 AM   #18
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Hi-Lo s also came with Horizon awnings, they are in a metal box fastened at the top and crank out and the supports can be put on the ground, patio style, needs no brackets on the Hi-LO, there is also brackets that can be put on the Hi-Lo, but not necessary. Both A & E and Horizon awnings are now under the Dometic name.
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