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Old 10-29-2011, 07:21 PM   #61
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Sam, thinking back I should've let the paper dry out and than recover it with the styrofoam, it does provide strength to the walls, I did line the inside of the wall with a poly barrier, just like we have in our house, i'm not sure if it is the right thing to do but it has been sealed up now
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:23 PM   #62
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Sting I was thinking about maintaining an inside temp when we were camping, i'm pretty sure it'll be just as cold in the inside as the outside come January here in Minnesota


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You could place a pillow in there but I dont see a reason why, except to keep wasps from building nests outside the screen. The temp inside will be as cold as outside when stored.

Vanooch was stating, that the top half camper seal, runs above this opening, of course, so fridge will vent..
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:46 PM   #63
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It's been over a year since I bought the Hi-Lo and i'm just about finished, unfortunatley all the inside panels that I replaced last year have water stains on them so over the last week I have removed the piece that covers the end caps on the front and the back of the unit and have replaced the butyl tape, put new stainless screws back and have sealed both sides of them, put new screw covers on also, I have also done this to the ones on the side on the unit. There are still voids in the outside skin but I talked with somebody that does vinyl lettering and he said it would be easy to cover the voids, this way it'll have a new look that nobody else has. With most things sealed up i'm going to start pulling out the water stained panels and will replace them in the next couple of weeks.

My wife has been busy and we have new curtains and also have recovered the cushions, the fold out couch has been a bit of a challenge to recover but my wife has ordered a new cover for it, the one they sewed just doesn't fit right, I have to admit that this thing is starting to look awesome.

I put up the popup for sale yesterday and sold the thing within an hour and a half, I paid $1200 for it 6 years ago and sold for $1100!
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:06 PM   #64
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Dirtfan, I will not beat you up for having problems with your repair. Stained paneling. I,m not an expert. We just got extremely lucky to have been given good advice by our HiLo dealer and a few critical pieces by Jr repair. I don't want you to do the vinyl lettering repair because it won,t work. I would ask you to consider ripping everything out of your walls go back to "barenaked fiberglass.". Then go to an auto parts store or better yet a lg. automotive supplier of paints and get liquid bondo to paint on. This will give you a very hard seal and will seal up any holes. You will need an industrial respirator and every window open. Please review our 1990 25 ft. HiLo Classic restoration. Don't worry about your walls not being strong enough. Your walls will be strong with the 1/8 underlay,1/8 paneling and 1inch sheets of styrofoam. Calk every nook and cranny and use expanding foam. If I had our repair to do over again I would have used thin insulation film on the ones we tore out to the fiberglass. I wanted to tear everything off the walls,but dh wasn't in agreement. I wish I lived closer I would give you all our left over material/supplies. We have had several hard rain storms and no leaks. The brown paper on the walls is way outdated. Get rid of it. You will be spending all your popup sale $ on material forthe HiLo. You can do this repair correctly so you have no leaks. Let me know if you have any questions. I truly believe the older units are sturdier and worth restoring. Chin up it will get better. The pink thin material i was refering to is a moisture barrier. Use stainless steel screws. Anywhere you find rusty screws is a sign of water intrusion. HiLo should have used stainless steel screws in the manufacturing process.
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Old 07-08-2012, 08:17 PM   #65
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See more details on the 3M bondo in my 1990 HiLo Classic restoration. This is a two part epoxy glue if my memory serves me correctly. Dries tough as nails. Did you have water dammage stains on your end cap paneling. We didn't have to do any repair to our inside or outside end caps. Just replaced all screws with stainless steel. I highly recommend you remove all windows and reseal with butyl tape and Lexell caulk. While the window is out it will give you a look at your interior wall/delamination.
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