Best way to level?
 

Greetings,

How best to make sure that the trailer (1993 21 ft HiLo Funlite) is level? I have a suspicion that the outside bubble levels cannot be trusted. Both bubbles are perfectly centered, but measuring the inside floor tells me that it is leaning quite a bit to one side.

Thanks!

Chris

I would rely on the level on the floor.

Leveling is necessary for proper operation of the fridge, and, it reduces stress on the tracks/guides that the top slides up and down on. So, you'd like the fridge to be level and the tracks ideally would be vertical fore and aft and side to side if things are plumb. If all that happens with a level floor, then that would be your guide. You might do better checking the lower frame with a level.

Once you get things as level as possible, you could adjust or replace the outer levels to reflect the proper condition.

- Jack

We place the level either on the floor or the countertop above the fridge. I use a "bullseye" level on the trailer tongue as a general reference but rely on the inside level for the real deal. Everybody mentions that proper leveling is for the fridge, which is true, but it also affects the entry door into the trailer. If not leveled properly, it can cause the door to bind.

Bob

Don't try leveling with the crank down stabilizers, they are not meant to hold the weight of the trailer, just stop movement.

I agree. I've got outside bubble levels that I use to ball park it in----but also use level on the floor in both directions and will often check on top of the fridge. I sometimes re-check after I put the stabalizers down and if it is off I may back off on one of the stabalizers as,has been mentioned, as that can throw the door off. usually on a a graded campground pad I figure two orange plastic squares under the low side gets me where I need to be side to side----then I check fore and aft with the floor level.

Rick

I have placed these on the tongue and rear bumper:

Cross Check Level

I have placed these on the floor and countertops:

Bullseye Surface Level

The price is right. I bought a handful of each. The cross check is magnetic and I leave them on the tongue and rear bumper, and the bullseye I just set on the floor and countertops and after I'm level, I just toss them into a drawer.

I level using four scissor-jacks. Keeping an eye on the door is helpful and making sure that it opens and closes freely without "a life of its own". The floor is a fairly good guide but results may vary depending which spot I pick. (Probably the result of the trailer being old.) Measuring at frame, the tongue and rear should be best. Thanks for all the feedback!

It is OK to to level a trailer using externally mounted bubble levels, provided these levels are installed correctly. Sometimes external levels are not installed just right. Also, some of them are installed using an adhesive backing. This tends to sag a bit over time, resulting in an erroneous reading.

I recommend that a trailer be carefully leveled using a carpenter's level on the floor. Once that is done, external levels can be installed using screws, epoxy, or some other method that ensures that they won't change their index over time.

There is something else that is unique to Hi-Los. The upper may not be perfectly level in relation to the floor, when in the up position. This is due to cable stretch, tolerances, etc. I recommend that external levels mounted on Hi-Los be attached to the frame or the lower body. If they are attached to the upper body, they should be installed and used when the upper is fully retracted, and is resting on the supports.

Raul

Chris,

All the responses to your question are good. If you are in a situation that you do not have a level, you might try using a tape measure; measure the distance from the bottom of the front of the trailer and the rear until they are equal. Side to side would depend on how level your parking spot is.

Jerry Curtis
2406 T

Here is one of my "brilliant" ideas. Set a partially filled bowl of water on the floor and level the trailer to evenly level the water in the bowl. I was not a boy scout. :D

Note: As an option, borrow your dog's water dish and use it for the level.

Rich,

I have another one for you. For leveling front to back, take an unopened plastic water bottle, set it on its side on the floor near the front of the trailer. If the water bottle rolls and hits the toilet, the trailer is not level.

Us two water bottles at the same time and you can get forward-aft and starboard-port. Or you could use a level.

Brilliant!

Also, there are several free "level" apps out there for smart phones. Makes a nice and very accurate bubble level right on your screen. I use the frame by the tongue or the floor.

Curious as to why this discussion is exploring the complicated? The best, simplest, and cheapest way is to use a level. Trying to substitute a chrome plated 100 spoke wheel with knock off hubs when a round disc of wood with a wooden axle would do the job?

Using a level is just too high tech, but it doesn't require batteries, WiFi, or 4G, unless you have a smart level. I use a level and if it is within half a bubble it is close enough.
I was using the bowl of water as an example to use in case the level got left back home in the garage.

I've got a couple of stick on levels that don't get left at home. Optional would be a small torpedo level that doesn't leave the camper. Not like I wouldn't end up "borrowing" it 'cause I couldn't put my hands on the one in the shop!!

I have a little two bubble T level that always stays just inside the door and a bulls eye level in a drawer, like the ones RCReyes posted earlier. They both work quite well.

Two page post on using levels. Must still be winter.......:)

rick