Does the roof have to be up or down to replace one cable ??
I had a cable bolt pull thru the lip so I added a 6-inch piece of steel to the lip to hold the bolt and cable but I need more slack in the cable to make it work.
I have not found anyone close to me in central Illinois that is willing to work on camper so it is up to me to fix it.

Jamesh - I've never "replaced" a cable, but I DID disconnect one where it attaches to the edge of the top to repair that area. Mine did not pull out, but it had deformed the edge and I fixed the rather large "dent" that it made there. I don't think it matters if the top is up or down, but I imagine it would be easier to do your repair to the side of the top if the top was up. If you can get the top up, you can hold it there with a 2x4 between the top and the outrigger below it.Tape the 2x4 to the side of the lower half with duct tape to keep it in place if you need to.

To get enough slack, you MAY need to completely release the cable at the adjusting bolt next to the wheel. But, see if you can do the repair with the bolt all the way "in" to the side of the frame first. I think you'd get enough slack that way. The top will have to be held up on the end where the cable is not attached or you will not be able to secure the cable at both ends.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Thanks for the help. I have tried with it and tried with it down but have not been under the trailer to the adjustment bolt yet. We have had so much rain I can not get under it yet but that will be the next thing I do. In fact, I just came into the house from working on it and I am wet because it is raining again. Thanks again. Jim

Jim, you can raise the top with a farm jack between the top and an outrigger. You'll have to electrically raise it a bit at a time and then jack the part up that is not being lifted. Repeat. Take your time, you don't want to put stress on the guide blocks.

Sorry, I just re-read your first post and it looks like you've already made the repair and now just have to get the cable back in. I think if you release it from the adjustment side you'll definitely be able to attach it to the top half. Then, I think there will be enough length for you to get the bolt back in to the side of the lower frame. If not, you can always get a new cable - they are longer than needed and have to be shortened.

- Jack

Thanks, that is what I was going to try next if it ever stops raining here. when I get that done do I have to make an adjustment on all the cables to make sure they all ways raise the same? where are the adjustment bolts, are they inside the frame or someplace else, just one bolt or two?

Jim, the cable terminates in an adjustment bolt that simply extends through the frame of the trailer in front of the street side tires. You will see four bolts there, one for each cable. You will see them if you get down to the tire level and look for them from the outside. They are held in place by two nuts, the outer nut is a locknut. You will loosen that one first to make any kind of adjustment to that cable. You will probably have to hold the bolt on the inside of the frame (under the trailer) to turn any of the nuts.

Locate the cable you are planning to reattach, unscrew the lo cknut on that bolt (I'd just take it off but put it in some safe place). Then, unscrew the second nut to the end of the bolt and see if that gives you enough slack to reattach the cable to the top. If not, take the nut all the way off and that will free the cable.

Once you have the cable attached, you should be able to reinsert the bolt into the frame and attach a nut if you had to take it out. Make sure the cable is still on all the pulleys. Tighten the nut till the cable slack is removed and the cable feels as rigid as the others. Put the locknut on and tighten it down. You will NOT have to adjust the other cables if they were ok before.

Check that the bulb seal on the top meets the lip on the lower half when you raise the top. If it does, you're done. Tighten the cable more to raise that section, loosen it to lower. You want the bulb seal to JUST meet the lip, and not be deformed.

- Jack

I thank you again sound like I will get my camper back in shape before I leave after the first of the year. I am having new graphics put on next week.

Read the posting in this forum about replacing cables. I actually printed then read it several times. I considered the toughest part was tightening the cable where it attaches to the underside of the top section enough so I could then tighten the adjustment nut.

Jacking up the street side then supporting with jack stands and removing the tire made accessing the adjustment nuts easier.

Fortunately this is no longer my problem.