Frame Issue
 

Hello HiLo Friends, I need some help/advice on a frame issue and how to attack the repair myself. As I was setting up my 2007 HiLo 28c on gravel, the wheels on the trailer rolled back (even though they were chocked) when trailer tongue disconnected from the ball. Needless to say, the front of the trailer came crashing down to the ground. After getting the trailer back into the correct position, I noticed that part of the exterior wall had caved inward near the door where the cable is attached to the top section of the trailer. Can someone please help me figure out how I can repair this issue? Thanks for any advice. I've attached one picture to show everyone what I'm looking at, but I have many more to share.

Welcome to the Forum!

There are lots of members that have done some pretty major repairs on their HiLos so I'm sure you will get some advice here.

Could explain how your your trailer came off the the hitch ball to allow it to crash to the ground? Was the top up or down when this happened?

Unhitched
 

Thanks for the response. My family and I was setting up the trailer for a weekend at the lake. I backed the trailer in our designated spot, which was a gravel pad, and started to setup. Of course, the first thing I did was chock the wheels, plug in the electric, and release the tension bars from the hitch. Afterwards, I did raise the top section so I could put my level on the countertop to determine if I need to place pads under the tires to level the trailer from side to side. Everything was perfect, so I put blocks under my tongue jack and started to crank the tongue off of the trailer ball. As soon as the tongue separated from the ball, the trailer rolled back a few inches. This caused the tongue jack to slide off of the blocks underneath and the jack hit the ground. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for any advice.

Braddavs,

I don't think you're going to like what I have to say. I believe you will have to lift the top half from the bottom half, then remove the top half of the door, remove the inside paneling so you can see what actually happened and probably some of the 1" styrofoam by the bad spot. The way it looks I think the weight of it coming down hard, bent the 1" tubing inward because of the way the cables are mounted to the top. If you can get it apart and straighten the tubing then either weld or bolt another piece of tubing to it for strength then put it back together. Sounds easy on paper doesn't it? :D

So this doesn't happen again, do what I did, make these
Homemade Wheel Chocks

I had almost the same thing happen at Yosemite. The trailer space we were given was far from level and the tongue jack slipped off the blocks I had put under it when I raised the tongue off the hitch ball. Fortunately, there was no damage and we were able to move to a different spot.

Part of my problem is that with a single axle, it's more difficult to chock the wheels to prevent "slippage". I've since modified a wheel chock by attaching a strip of aluminum under it that the wheel rolls onto and I've bought a chock that fits "Leggo" like onto leveling pads for a side that has to be raised. This gives me a more secure chocking capability. I also bought an orange circular foot for the tongue jack that I've screwed onto one of the Leggo pads that does a better job of holding jack when the trailer is disconnected from the tow hitch.

A trailer with tandem axles should be fine with two of the "between the wheels" chocks. It should lock both sides.

- Jack

I agree, it's easy on paper. Any suggestions on how to separate the top section from the bottom?

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f55/...of-gasket-220/

Your explanation of what happened should be good food for thought for the rest of us and how easily things happen sometimes.

The top should not be raised prior to leveling because the lift system can be put into a bind. You only need to place the level on the floor to level the trailer, it doesn't need to be precise.

Off subject (repair) but on the leveling line....
 

I used a couple of stick on levels (Walmart); just slapped them on (front and side) so I can easily view them from the tongue jack.

What seems to work for me is to use one plastic leveling pad per bubble (per tire - double axle) off the center mark.

Confession: I only guesstimated placement - but got pretty close; I don't get that dizzy feeling inside when off level and the fridge works just fine.

Hindsight is always 20/20.

The trailer should be fairly level front to back more so than side to side for proper flow of the ammonia inside the tubing. If operated to far out of level the fridge will be permanently damaged.

... would that be the fridge's front to back or the camper front to back?

Well, if one is leveled front to back, the probability of the other being leveled front to back is likely.

Well in my case they are perpendicular to each other; IE: the campers front/rear are the fridges sides.

Mine's the same way, Wrascal. I think that's the "norm" in most cases. I'm interested in the answer too though, since I'd never heard about this "front-back" criteria. I just try to level the trailer in all directions.

- Jack

Sorry didn't explain correctly, meant trailer front to back. All around level is best.

The operation of an absorption refrigerator depends on the flow of liquid water and ammonia in the tubing that forms part of the coils. By design, the tubing slopes gently downward and the flow of fluid is dependent on gravity. If a refrigerator is not level the liquid may flow too slowly, collect, or pool in the tubing. Not not enough fluid will return to the boiler and the cooling will stop.

Since the tubing in the coils typically slopes from side to side (as viewed from the front door of the refrigerator), leveling in this direction is more critical. This is why most manufacturers recommend that refrigerators be level within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back. Again, this is as viewed from the front door side of the refrigerator.

Leveling is not an issue when traveling because the motion, bumps, vibration, etc, will prevent pooling of the liquid in the coils.

https://origin-ars.els-cdn.com/conten...001770-gr1.jpg

Thanks, guys. That all makes sense.

- Jack

Doing the calculations on that you can be 8" left to right on the wheels and 12" front to back on the trailer length to stay within the allowance. I think we all try to stay within that just for the comfort of being on a level floor.