[SIZE="5"][/SIZE]My grey water tank is severely broken. I looked it over and it looks simple enough but campinworld wants $950 to install a new one. Is it heart surgery or what? What is actually entailed, any hope I can do it???

Robin, I'm sure you can do it. If you can get the old one out, you can get the new one in. It's not rocket science. The major problem is going to be clearance for you under the trailer. At RV repair places, they can put the trailer on a lift to make access easier. You're going to find things pretty "tight" under there.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Get 6 pieces of 2X6 - 3 for each side, put each one on top of the other spaced about 3 to 4 inches from the end in a step fashion put a couple nails in each to keep them from sliding, place in front of the wheels on each side and pull the trailer up on, this will give about 5 inches additional clearance under the trailer.
I have wood ramps made and use 4" solid concrete blocks with a 2 X 6 on top of them, this gives me about 5 and 5/8 inches lift. Great for lubing cables or other work under the trailer.

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Rich
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(215TL) - 1995 21' TowLite
(2209T) - 2009 22' TowLite
(2510 ) - 2010 25'

Robin,

Google "rv gray water holding tanks" and it will give you alot of options. I would suggest that you start spraying the threaded rods & nuts now that hold the tank support straps with WD40, PB Blaster, or something similar. You can bet your bottom dollar that they are really rusted on. Might take a day or two for the nuts to get saturated.

Bob

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2014 FR Heritage Glen 282RK
2013 F250 HD 6.7L Diesel
Formerly Owned: 1995 22D Fun Chaser & 2901L Classic

Machinist's Workshop MagT recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.
Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best,
but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.
*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid