How to winterize 27T
 

OK, have had a 17 Funlite, and now 27T for years. Funlite was easy to winterize, but every winter I struggle with pumping RV antifreeze into 27T.

Here's the problem: the diagram in the generic manual shows TWO shutoff valves to isolate the hot water tank (6 gallons) - one in and one out of tank. My system has ONE valve, located in the cabinet next to the bed and water heater. The cold water feed to the hot water tank has no shutoff or bypass. Not really sure what the valve that I have does.... I ran colored water thru system to find out where water goes so I wouldn't waste antifreeze - water goes into hot water tank.

There are also two valves in the rear storage compartment that do nothing but drain water out under the tail end of the trailer. Weird - What are they for?

When I try sucking the RV fluid thru the pump and out faucets and toilet, the hot water tank tries to fill, and I can't get the antifreeze to come out all faucets. End result is that I waste most of the antifreeze.:mad:

Any 27T owners out there with same system of valves?

Thanks!

Reno

I don't, but it sounds like you have a plumbing system that can be retrofitted with the bypass valve(s). I've seen a kit for this at Camping World. I bought one there before I found I didn't need it. It may be available elsewhere too.

- Jack

I'm not sure about your WH bypass valve, but I do know the valves on the floor are for draining the water from the system. Open all your faucets and then open the drain valves, most of the water will drain from your pipes. Don't forget to open the outside shower, the inside shower, and the city fill during the operation.

Reno, check real close the fittings that go into the water heater. My HWH valves are between the HWH tank and the piping, easy to miss.

Rich thanks for the reminder. I started the winterizing today and forgot all about the outside shower. Thankfully I haven't bought the antifreeze yet.

No funlite 27, but my HW-Heater's bypass valves are ON THE the inside or back of HW-Heater itself. Also have seen and read not all have them (optional?).

Thanks for replies.

I've triple checked both inside and out, and traced lines to/from water heater: only one bypass valve located inside. Odd, since it does basically nothing.

Don't have outside shower, so no issue there.

I think fix is to put shut off between cold water feed to heater, and already have the other half of bypass - however, no room to do so with current setup as junction of hot/cold water feeds is too close to heater, no room for valve.

May have to re-jigger whole cold water feed. Sounds like a spring project!

Thanks again!

Reno

Winterize 27T
 

Reno- I have the same model with same problems. You really halped me in that I did not know where the two drain valves were and if they are in the storage area near the bumper, I will open them to drain tomorrow. If the other single valve beside the bed cuts of water to the HWH then that is great as you do not want antifreeze going into the HWH anyway. You should have a pickup line in the front access panel which can be put into the gallon antifreeze jug to pull antifreeze into the cold and hot lines as you turn on one faucet at a time with the pump bypass hose in the gallon jug. I am trying to be clear but call me if you like. 5403205351. joe Jones in virginia.

My 2707T has two valves near the hot water heater, accessible from the bedroom closet that is nearby.

Last winter for the first time I decided to substitute RV antifreeze with just draining with the two valves opened in the rear storage compartment, raising the HiLo some to have front higher than the back. Had all inside faucets open. I also poured RV antifreeze in all drains. This worked fine; no freezing pipe damage. I live in Colorado, i.e. plenty cold at times.

So, I have done the same thing for winterization this year.

Outside Shower
 

My 2705t does not have outside shower and I would like to add one. Can u send pics of the installation so I can see how to install myself! Joe Jones

Winterize
 

Did you use bypass hose in front compartment to pull antifreeze into cold water pump or skip that step? Joe

No, never thought of doing that. So apparently, it's not necessary.

2705T Winterization
 

I have NO experience in this but from what I read a side benefit of pulling antifreeze into the pump is that is protects the pump from water being left inside of it and busting the pump? Does that sould reasonable?? Joe

Not sure, perhaps someone else will weigh in.

Yes that is correct you should get some anti freeze into the pump. I didn't do this one year on the 95, it had a water filter on the intake to the pump this froze and broke, was getting ready for a trip, the trailer was plugged into a 110 outlet, I started putting water into the tank, it sprayed out of the cracked filter onto a new electronic battery charger and it went up in smoke, lesson learned for me.

Even though I didn't have a problem from last winter, given your experience I decided to suck a little RV antifreeze into my water pump today. Thanks, Rich.

If you have the antifreeze intake hose installed it will draw antifreeze through the pump and then through the entire system. Also, when you are pumping in the antifreeze open the faucets furthest from the pump first, and don't forget the toilet, the shower, and the city fill line, and work your way toward the pump. This minimizes the amount of antifreeze needed.

This is absolutely correct. One year I just drained the potable water system in my boat and did not run antifreeze through the lines. Unfortunately the little bit of water left in the pump froze and cracked the housing.

If you are not going to run antifreeze through the lines, make sure the system is totally drained, including the pump.