Hi all,

There are times when one may want to make a quick overnight stop without disconnecting the tow vehicle. To properly level your trailer, does the hitch need to be disconnected from the tow vehicle? If not, are there any precautions if doing so?

Thanks,

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Greg
2004 4x4 Chevy Tahoe
Former owner of a 2407T

Hi Greg -

Ideally, when you tow with a WD hitch, you should adjust it so that the trailer is very close to level front to back in the towing configuration. If this is true, you might only have to level it side to side if the parking space is level. If not, you might be able to raise the nose of the trailer if needed by using the jack on the front of the trailer. You can get a large lift this way without disconnecting anything. It lifts the back of the tow vehicle too, but that won't hurt anything.

If you have to lower the trailer's nose, you'd need to disconnect the WD hitch leveling bars. Then the weight of the front of the trailer will probably drive the rear end of your tow vehicle down enough and you control the drop with the jack again.

I've only had to completely disconnect mine when the slope in the trailer parking area is extreme, or I wanted to use the truck.

- Jack

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Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Hi Jack,

I think I understand.

While we're talking about leveling, my past RVing experience was with a shorter class C motorhome so I never had to deal with the towing/ hitching issue. Back then, I did mostly boondocking and my understanding was that, other than for comfort, you really only needed to level for proper operation of the fridge while in propane mode. Does using the fridge on AC require it being level? And when I say level, I mean within a half bubble or so. Are there any other nuances with the Hi-Lo's that require them to be level, such as the lift system?

Thanks,

__________________
Greg
2004 4x4 Chevy Tahoe
Former owner of a 2407T

I believe the refrigerator should be level regardless of the power source - AC/DC or propane. This is so that there will be ammonia in the chamber that is heated. When traveling, the "sloshing" that occurs takes care of keeping the chamber filled properly.

I think your 1/2 bubble tolerance is good enough. I try to get it better, but I don't believe it needs to be perfect. And having the trailer level front to back and side to side causes less stress on the guide tracks that the top slides up and down on, so I'd try to get it pretty level before raising.

It's kind of hard to describe your four possibilities in a parking situation. The space could slope down or up fairly constantly, or, it could have a "hump" that would put the TV sloped down and the trailer up, or, a "dip" that puts the TV sloped up and the trailer down. I've had the "hump" situation a few times and often have a constant up or down slope. Usually, the slope is not too severe for leveling, without disconnecting the towing hitch (ball), but if you have to lower the trailer nose, you'll have to disconnect the WD hitch bars. (Their function is to hold the nose of the trailer and the back of your TV UP.)

- Jack