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Old 05-10-2011, 09:59 AM   #21
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If the cables show signs of damage (broken strands or rusted areas), then they should be replaced. If not, adjustment is a simple matter of blocking the top to a level position with the strain off the cables (lowering onto 4 equal length 2x4s is the "textbook" way) and then adjusting nuts at the ends of the cables (near a wheel probably) to either lengthen or shorten as needed. It is not a difficult process.

You can really see most of the cables underneath the trailer. The hardest parts to inspect are where they loop over the pulleys at the top (of the bottom half). The easiest way to examine that area is to remove a wood strip inside (unscrew it) and then you can see the pulleys and the cable too. This is the easiest way to lubricate the pulleys there too. I think with the wood trim strips (at the top of the lower half) removed, it will be easy to see which end needs to be raised/lowered, because I think you'll be able to see the position of the seal better?

I can't recall anyone having a cable break once the top was fully raised. I have heard of them breaking while the top was being lifted. Again though, the cables were worn to begin with.

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Old 05-10-2011, 10:21 AM   #22
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The safety catch only blocks the hydraulic cylinder from retracting, the cables are still holding the top up. I have had a cable break on 2 different trips. The first one that broke the top was half way up and the broken cable jammed and the top wouldn't go down either, top was tilted. I knew the cables were rusty and didn't replace them.
The point is if they are rusty or have broken strands, it won't take very many times up and down and one will break and they always seem to break on a camping trip. So replace them or a trip may turn into a disaster.
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Old 05-10-2011, 10:40 AM   #23
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The safety catch only blocks the hydraulic cylinder from retracting, the cables are still holding the top up. I have had a cable break on 2 different trips. The first one that broke the top was half way up and the broken cable jammed and the top wouldn't go down either, top was tilted. I knew the cables were rusty and didn't replace them.
The point is if they are rusty or have broken strands, it won't take very many times up and down and one will break and they always seem to break on a camping trip. So replace them or a trip may turn into a disaster.
This sounds like a nightmare - but you've had it happen TWICE?! Yikes!

Nobody hurt, though?

Can I replace the upper/lower seal while I have the wooden trim off on the inside? Just wondering about that. I know the seal could stand to be replaced. Just not sure if it's worth tackling - the current owner says he just seals the gap with some foam pipe insulation right now, because it's so cheap and effective. But if that's a good time to jump in on the seal, might as well go for it, yeah?

I haven't seen the cables on this trailer yet. Kinda anxious to check them out. Hopefully that's a "someday in the future" project, and not one that will need to be addressed on day one. But if it is....it is.
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:12 AM   #24
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Default what happens when a cable breaks

I just had it happen to me first time i lifted the top after i brought it home. I have a 88 22L , it was raising up and before it was in the raised position. i heard a loud pop and the whole door side came down. I wasn't experianced enough with what to look for when buying one. look at all the cables underneath, all the atachment points and about 3 inches up from where they attach to the top. mine were rusted through and i did not know it. also your wallpaper issue, if it is in more than just the shower, you might have a bad top to bottom seal, the new ones are thick black color, the old ones are grey
also if just the top is peeling, then it is probably a bad seal. I don't know how much j & r sells the seals for , but I just had mine changed and hac 60mph winds and couldn't make a piece of tissue paper move at any seam. it was a worthwhile investment. best of luck with your new project, robod
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:23 AM   #25
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Hey robobd -

Who did you seal replacement?

J & R is a long-shot for me; I'm a few days drive from there, so that's not much of a possibility for me.

Did you replace it yourself? Replace the cables yourself?

Now I'm getting nervous about walking into this landmine...
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Old 05-10-2011, 11:48 AM   #26
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You can buy the cables from JR Repair, 4 cables are about 225.00, I replaced mine and so have many others, it's not all that hard, there is a Thread in this forum that explains how to do.
Crawl under and take a look they may be just fine.
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:15 PM   #27
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Default cables and seals

I went to j&r because they are about a days drive for me, but if you call them, ask for rob , they can help you just with info or help you out to find the nearest used to be hi-lo dealers close to you. If you try to do it yourself, they can get you the parts (j&r) and guide you through the repairs yourself. also the forums will also guide you through all phases of your repairs , and so will all of the forum members. Hi-lo campers are great, and even though i had problems with mine, i would still do it all over again , because they are that good and the forum and members are even better!

Remember, we are a big family and friend network that always help out and look out for one another! robod
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Old 05-10-2011, 01:27 PM   #28
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The stove grates will lock into place for travel.
Sorry Sam, but I don't agree. Actually, with this style stove top (and its looks to be the exact same as what we have), I've found it is a good idea to stow away the three iron burner grates when traveling. Problem is that, when left in place underway, they rattle around, bounce up and down, and chip and gouge and scratch the dickens out of the porcelain stove stop. Hit a big enough bump, and they end up on the floor!

Jim
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Old 05-10-2011, 02:17 PM   #29
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Remember, we are a big family and friend network that always help out and look out for one another! robod
That's what I love about these unique campers, especially when coupled with such a dynamic forum. Almost makes solving problems FUN.

Thanks for all the support to this point, all. Hoping to meet up with you and shake your hands one of the days.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:01 PM   #30
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Sorry Sam, but I don't agree. Actually, with this style stove top (and its looks to be the exact same as what we have), I've found it is a good idea to stow away the three iron burner grates when traveling. Problem is that, when left in place underway, they rattle around, bounce up and down, and chip and gouge and scratch the dickens out of the porcelain stove stop. Hit a big enough bump, and they end up on the floor!

Jim

I agree with you, Jim. We discovered that one of our stove grates was damaging the light above it as our trailer bounced along. We always remove the stove grates prior to lowering the top.
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Old 05-10-2011, 05:13 PM   #31
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Mine don't lock down either. Found one of them on the floor after a trip once. Wish they did lock.

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Old 05-10-2011, 10:49 PM   #32
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Default Stove burners inplace during travel

The burners must be different on the towlight models. Mine have little holes on the porcelin and the grate sits snugly in place during travel. I have a 90 Classic 25ft. Good thing you realized the burners were doing damage during travel. My drawers and ref. never come open duringt travel. However ,when I open the Br cabinents after travel all the toothpaste ect.come flying out. I tried little spring tension rods to hold the contentd in,didn't work. Maybe a small cardboard piece in the front would work. I would take them out while camping.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:05 AM   #33
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However ,when I open the Br cabinents after travel all the toothpaste ect.come flying out. I tried little spring tension rods to hold the contentd in,didn't work. Maybe a small cardboard piece in the front would work. I would take them out while camping.
Sam,

We've used two methods to prevent cupboard avalanches.

First, in our 1969, I take the hand-towels, washcloths, bath-towels, and oven mittens, clean clothing... you name it... and push them into the front of the cabinets to stabilize the contents while underway. Nothing shifts, therefore there are no avalanches upon opening.

Second, in our 2904T, the front cupboards are WAY too deep for the towel technique. I went to our local wholesale restaurant supply store (they'll also sell retail with a price mark-up) and found some big bus-boy dish pans that just fit into the cupboards. This store has a wide variety of shapes of plastic pans and other containers, so it was kind of a measure and try until we got the right ones. We put all of our cans, food boxes, etc. in these pans and slide them into the cupboard, similar to a drawer. Keeps everything stable during travel and gives easy access to contents way in the back when we're parked. In the shallow side cupboards we again do the towel thing when moving.

BTW, my apologies if you already know this, but I've found many travelers don't... if your vertical-lifting cupboard doors don't like to stay open when your groping around for the peanut can (or anything else), remount the spring loaded hinges so the outsides slope down a smidgen. That will give the door a little bit of resistance to opening, and CLOSING, giving the hinge springs the little bit of help they need to keep the door open.

Jim
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Old 05-11-2011, 11:21 AM   #34
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I bought a thin sheet of plexiglass at "big orange" and cut it to size to fit inside some of my cabinets. I used silicone to hold them in place. Now when I open those cabinets, nothing falls off and out.

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Old 05-11-2011, 11:32 AM   #35
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Like Jim, Janet and I use the "basket technique". (Actually, it was her idea). It also makes getting things out of the upper cabinets pretty easy since you can pull the whole mess down in one step, where things are easy to see.

The trick is to find pans or baskets that almost exactly fit the openings so you don't end up wasting space. I think Janet found ours at Bed, Bath and Beyond.

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Old 05-11-2011, 11:39 AM   #36
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Wahoo!

I'm racking up all sorts of good ideas here!

Keep 'em coming -

I've already got a healthy list of "to do" things...
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:20 PM   #37
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Baskets from the dollar stores work well and the price is right. Small ones work great in the overhead cabinets and they make it easier getting things in and out.
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Old 05-11-2011, 12:56 PM   #38
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CptMoney

You may be interested in this forum thread from last year.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f17/...age-ideas-398/
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Old 05-11-2011, 02:27 PM   #39
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Instead of baskets, we use "plastic shoe boxes" for our items. They come with a snap on plastic lid making it easy to pull them out without spilling anything. In one of our cabinets, we can stack them. They are clear so you can see the contents and know if you're grabbing the right one. We use larger ones for storage under the couch. I also use them in my outside storage compartments. Keeps those items dry and clean.

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Old 05-11-2011, 03:30 PM   #40
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I like the shoe box with lid for use in the pods as every thing always gets wet and dirty. even though they have foam weather striping, water goes thru the hinge. Can't believe I never thought of a plastic box with a lid. I will be getting some plastic boxes as I have a lot of things that I would like to put in there and take out of inside the trailer.
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