Packing the wheel bearings
 

Is packing the wheel bearings on the axles very hard to do? I have a 2004 towlite 22' camper that I purchased a few months ago. The person who sold me the trailer said he packed them last year. However, I'm going on a camping trip in a month and I don't know if I should repack my bearings or not. Also, whether I should attempt to do this or get it done a trailer dealership.

Also, does anyone know where I can buy a set of wheel bearings in case I need to replace mine while out of town. Just to be safe.

Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks..

Ken

I would say, as well as others, if you haven't done it before take it to someone that knows what they are doing. Maybe you can watch them and learn how to do it yourself. You don't want to mess around with the wheel bearings. A breakdown along a highway is not a good experience.

Repacking wheel bearings
 

I agree with the above poster. DH has never done ours we always have the HiLo dealer do it.

I offer a different view.
Have you ever packed any wheel bearings on a motor vehicle? If so and you feel competent, do it yourself and save some easy money.
Youtube a video that shows the procedure, they are all pretty much the same.

Remember that many RV shops charge $120/hour. At least where I live!

Any good axle shop will have the bearing/races that you need. BUT, you will need one from your trlr to show them to match!

If you buy a new bearing, you will also need new races. Good item to have in the trlr. I paid about $25 for a set.

My wife says I am so cheap that I squeak.

I agree with renoites, I carry a set of bearings,races, and seal in my tool box in a sepate container. If I have a problem with one hub, I'm covered. If more than one hub I have the parts to match up or the part numbers without tearing apart the axle.

Good Point
 

To many of us have seen the boat trailer on the side of the road with a bad bearing problem. Well making sure that your wheel bearings are ready is a great idea.
That said renoites's and campthewestcoast ideas of keeping at least one spare set ready as a spare is a great idea. Some places that offer to rebuild or repack your bearings while on the road might not have the perfect fitting set. This way your not waiting 2 or 3 days till they finally get in another set.

Later Tim owner 18ft 1969 hilo

repacking bearings
 

Something showing info about repacking bearings is in another thread on this site

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f54/...ce-manual-102/

starts about page 49 in the manual not pdf count.

Later Tim

Actually boat trlrs are worse because you get the bearings hot while moving then dip in cold water to rinse them off.

I repacked mine last year and did a 7k mile trip. I am not worried about checking them this year. I did the work myself and know the quality of workmanship.

Packing Bearings
 

The easiest and cleanest way to pack wheel bearings is to go to your local auto supply store and pick up a wheel bearing packer and a grease gun. You can pack both bearings (inner and outer) at the same time without getting grease all over you and everything else. The new grease enters from the bottom pushing the old grease out of the bearing. No need to wash (terrible idea) the bearings. The grease coverage is complete and you can recoup your investment in a couple of repacks. At what the dealers charge now days And with my triple axle trailer a bearing pack costs about $400.00. For that kind of savings I'll do it myself every time. With a bearing packer it's pretty easy. The hardest part is taking the wheels off and getting to the bearings.

P.S. Make for damn sure you replace the grease seals every time you repack!!!

Bear :D

How many failures?
 

I have been in the automotive business for over thirty years and what I would like to know honestly is how many people don't repack their bearings and how many failures they have had. Most of the failures we saw were from improper torque on wheel bearings after the owner had repacked them. Many times you will see vehicles with 100,000 with never having the wheel bearings packed.
Boat trailers that are constantly dipped in water are a different story. I understand they need checked and repacked, but today's lubricants are far superior to those of 30 years ago.
Just curious
Charlie

In checking the wheels, how much play should there be? Regarding wheel bearings I have just a tiny bit of wiggle when the wheel is raised. Thanks
Oh, I'm new and just bought a 97 22' hilo.
Harry

"Just a little bit" is what I look for. If you were to turn the nut to the next tighter position where you could insert the cotter pin, if it feels too tight, then you were at the right place before (if that makes sense).

- Jack

I've always used a torque wrench, like outlined here:

Bearing Down: Repacking RV Wheel Bearings

Here is a good article on the principals of repacking and retightening the wheel bearings. As far as packing them with grease, I have always put a glob of grease in the palm of my hand then holding the bearing with the larger side down, press the bearing edge down into the glob of grease which forces it up and into the channel containing the rollers. Do a little at a time turning the bearing a little and repeating the downward motion through the grease until you have made it all the way around the bearing. Grease should come out the top (small end) of the bearing when it is full. Put a finger into the bearing and roll the rollers around a bit to completely coat the rollers. Then install using the procedure in the article.

https://www.trailerlife.com/rv-traile...heel-bearings/

Keep this point in mind when doing your own "repacking of wheel bearings." Trailers like a Hi-Lo rely on tapered bearings and as such they require what is called a "preload." The bearings should always be tightened to the proper amount of preload, NO WIGGLE AT ALL.

Jim - I'm not trying to start an argument, but these are the directions in my Dexter Axle manual for adjusting the wheel bearings on my trailer.

1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 Ft. Lbs. (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force.)

2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.

3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.

4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin.

5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut.

6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin.

Now, when I do it this way, I end up with just a tiny bit of "play" in the wheel. There IS some "wiggle".

I think maybe the "preload" you refer to is the 50 ft-lbs torque that is used to seat the bearings while the wheel is rotated?

Again, I'm not trying to start a fight. Virtually everything I know comes from things I've read, and I have to believe Dexter's instructions should be followed for their axles.

- Jack

Those are pretty much the same instructions that are on the link that Misfit and I shared. I've owned three trailers (Hi-Lo, Jayco, motorcycle/utility) and I've used this process to pack the bearings on all. I've never had a bearing failure or any other sort of bearing related problem.

Incidentally, years ago I bought a bearing packer at an auto parts store. Since then I've used it to pack bearings on trailers, cars, motorcycles, etc. It's a great tool: https://i.walmartimages.com/i/mp/MP/1...45_500X500.jpg

Thanks, Raul. I agree, what I posted DOES match what you and misfit posted. I simply added the Dexter instructions to make it clear that the ones you guys put up applies to our bearings. And, to try to negate any thought that over tightening the nut is the proper procedure. I'm pretty certain that over tightening will lead to rapid bearing failure.

- Jack

I learned to pack and reset bearings from my first car, a 1970 Mercury, which had drum brakes all the way around. I haven't had to do it for years as most vehicles now have bearings in the hub that don't get greased the same. And I agree also that if you leave the bearing snugly in the race, it will cause more wear because of more friction. That's just physics. When you tighten the nut, that is the pre load, but then it has to be loosened which gives the bearing clearance to roll freely without binding. If you roll the wheel with the nut tight and then roll it again after taking the tension off, you will see a major difference. If you towed it both ways, you would probably see a big difference in fuel mileage also.

I agree with you people all the way. One other thing to keep in mind is replacing the dust cap. Many people just tap it back on with a hammer or mallet, that's a no-no. It can dent the cap in and cause it to touch the spindle and nut, etc. That can cause a wear through of the cap and allow dirt and water to get in where you don't want it. A better way is to find a large socket that will fit over the cap and engage the rim of the cap. Tap on the socket and drive the cap on until it seats. My dealer friend told me that and he is quit emphatic about doing it that way.