Originally Posted by JackandJanet
If you don't have enough room to squeeze under with the trailer sitting on the ground (I do) then I recommend you roll the trailer onto a couple 2x6s or leveling blocks to lift the frame off the ground. Leave the trailer connected to your tow vehicle so that it cannot roll off, and make sure your tow vehicle's in park with the parking brake set! Using either wood or blocks under the wheels is a safe way to gain clearance. DO NOT go under the trailer if it is supported with a jack or even jack stands.
There's virtually no stress on my bathroom door, so I would expect virtually any fix to work if mine separated. The metal right angle reinforcements should work.
Thank you, Jack. You will be happy to hear that I completed the Sintering of my trailer today. The existing pump worked like a charm, sucking up the antifreeze like a charm, no priming necessary. Opened the valve, and before you know it, the job was done. I am now making notes of what to close in the Spring.
Is the wooden door to your bathroom just held by a fabric snap? Ours is so the door opens and closes on its own as we travel, putting a log of stress on the wooden joints, or is your door somehow fastened to a wall so it does not bounce around? I think once I repair it, I may buy an elastic band to hold the door secure to the wall. What do you think. I don’t want to do a cheesy repair that does not look like a professional job. Any comments are welcomed.
Th as bid for the 2x6 suggestion to raise the trailer a bit to allow me to get under to put the lithium grease on the shaft. Should the top be raised all the way up to access the metal of the shaft?
How long does it take? So you apply it with a paint brush or putty knife?