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Old 12-22-2013, 05:10 AM   #1
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Default refridgerator trouble

the fridge works fine on 115 vac, but I can't get it to work on 12 vdc. anyone tell me how to test it, maybe I have the little black electrical switch in the wrong position? I don't even know how to check to see if it has juice going to it. Many thanks in advance. We're on our way to Florida and using a cooler instead.
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notanlines View Post
the fridge works fine on 115 vac, but I can't get it to work on 12 vdc. anyone tell me how to test it, maybe I have the little black electrical switch in the wrong position? I don't even know how to check to see if it has juice going to it. Many thanks in advance. We're on our way to Florida and using a cooler instead.
notanlines,

There is a previous post [below] that might be of help:

My first thought is that you are not getting 12vDC to your fridge control circuit. You will need a volt meter to determine this. I assume you have checked all the 12v fuses and made sure there is not one blown to the fridge? If your control knob turns freely you may have some contact dirt or buildup.If it is somewhat difficult to turn then you probably have some dirt buildup that is addressed in this link.

http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f29/...ob-stuck-3552/

Before removing the control, you might turn off the AC circuit breaker to the fridge and remove the 12v fuse also removing all power to it, then move the control full cycle several times in case there is dirt or electrical residue on the contacts. Oftentimes due to non-use,there will be a natural buildup on contacts that prevent voltage flow. This may remove any buildup by just 'exercising' the control knob. This failing, a physical examination of the control switch will be necessary which entails removal. A good cleaning of the contacts using a non-electrical cleaning solvent and air hose may be necessary. Insuring they are making good contact should put your fridge back to good working order.

I hope this helps.

jcurtis95
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:31 AM   #3
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Default Just a question

Can I assume you are talking about the control knob/switch on the front of the unit? There had been some talk of the contacts on the thermostat, but I don't know where that is located......I'll keep you posted as to my progress (or lack thereof) Many thanks and merry Christmas. Jim in Memphis
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Old 12-23-2013, 04:13 PM   #4
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On my unit the gas/120v/12v selector switch is on the bottom front. Also mine has the temp adj set and a lighting window that is viewed from a standing position to see if the burner is lit.
I wouldn't think that the manufacturer would have remote controls. Have you been to Dometic.com for location ?

I rebuilt my refrigerator. Needed a new cooling unit. On the internet there are instructions for complete testing of our systems problems.

UNPLUG AND REMOVE ALL POWER
Open the access panel on the outside. There is a heat/gas vent on the right side of the refrig, as you face it. It has a cover over the lower vent that has insulation inside. Under the insulation there are 2- 90 degree rods that stick into the chimney, they have a wire going to the end of each(these are heating rods-120v to one rod---and 12v to the other rod). SELECT 120 or 12v TO TEST (ON FRONT OF UNIT)
Now that you have access to the contact you can test for the proper volts and see if your rod is good/bad.
If you have power to rod and no heat = not good OR BAD ground

THESE RODS GET VERY HOT-VERY QUICKLY


Back track the wires and find the common ground, a white wire normally.
If your ground is bad you can get strange reading or no reading to the separate ends to the rods.
If not a good ground, fix first then re-test.

I think ADCO.com has the info for the total refrig test for function. They have a very good cooling unit.
The testing is not hard!
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:32 AM   #5
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Default Results of repair

I posted this on the other thread, but forgot I brought it up here also. Here is the latest on the fridge repair: Yep, y'all can say "I told you so!" One of the fuses was blown, and of course it was blown so that you couldn't tell by just looking at it. It had actually separated behind the end of the fuse. It took two repairmen from our local camper service about three minutes to find this. Then they went on to explain to me that if there is no 12V to the system that neither the gas nor the 12V side will work, that the propane needs the 12V to make the spark, etc. Yes, again in my life I have learned to do more than just visually inspect a fuse. Thanks to all who tried to push me in the proper direction.
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