Water damage
 

Hi, this will be my first time posting. my name is Dave I found this site about a month ago. What a wonderfull site! I just purchased my first Hilo, it's a 83 fun lite. We love it. However on our first trip this past weekend we noticed a leak at the front window. It appears to be leaking through the bracket attaching the fiberglass window cover, the gaps in the rubber seals in the window, plus the fact the seal between the window and the fiberglass pop out was only existant at the bottom, this has caused dry rot completly around the window. I took out the panneling under the window. The wood framing under the panneling dosn't appear to have gotten wet or dammaged at all. Only the wood around the window.does anyone know if the wood around the window is attatched or goes behind the side cabinets? Any hints or tips on repair? Anywhere that carries new rubber seals? Any ideas on insulating around or under the window? I am taking pictures from start to finish so will attempt to post them latter. I live in sacramento Ca. Any help will be geatly apprieciated.

Hi Dave,
My trailer is a 1977 and it has a steel frame so I am not sure about yours but I can share what I found when I stripped mine and my plans for fixing everything. Mine has the frame around the windows that attatches to the framing for the top. One of my windows leaks and to fix the problem I am going to remove the window, it attatches from the outside the screws are under the trim. After removing and cleaning the window and wall I am going to use a product called "the right stuff" its a gasket maker for the automotive industry made by permatex and I have found it to be alot better than silicone. As for insulating the space in the walls I am using rigid foam insulation its basically styrofoam sheets that are sold at hardware stores. They are sold in 4x8 foot sheets in differant thickness. They cut easily with a serrated knife or jig saw just cut a piece the same size as the space between the framing and put it in place. You can use a dab of silicone to hold it in place until the paneling gets put back. If you want the gap between the framing and foam insulation sealed or if you mis-cut it you can use spray foam insulation to fill the gap its also available at the hardware store, it expands when it comes out of the can and it will expand beond the wall so just let it dry then cut off the excess with a serrated knife.
Have a great day,
Martin

Hi Martin, thank you for the info.I havn't heard of the right stuff before sounds great. Also the insulation. I was thinking on using fiberglas batt insulation but was concerned about dampness from condensation against the fiberglass. Using the other sounds better. Does anyone Know if the opening for the a/cis the same for a vent? I would like to swap it out as if its hot I camp where it's cool (mountains or coast) Thank you again for your response have a great day

I could be interested in the AC if you do swap, let me know thanks.

I read some where some time ago that the openings are the same size. I wouldn't think it would be smaller, and a little larger shouldn't be a problem to fill in.

I believe that the vent openings and the a/c opening are all 14" by 14".

YES 14" X 14" are the standard measurements for an AC or Vent.
I think I would keep the AC just in case.........
Just food for thought
Roy
aka LiteFoot

i have a 78 with same work to be done. my question is what was the original insulation like, was there any . i thought it was a steel frame and laminated wood. heard that foam can push out a campers wall expanding if the walls not braced ???

Great Stuff is made by Dow. You can get it almost everywhere - Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They make 2 different types. The spray can with the yellow top expands and does push out. The spray can with the blue top expands and does not push out. It is made for use in insulating doors and windows. It does not push the casings in to cause the door or window to bind.

I would consider keeping the AC. We like to camp during the Spring and Fall when just a little morning heat is needed. We installed a "heat strip" made for Duotherm units. It was just a little over $50, and the Duotherm was already wired to accept it. It is nice not to have to use the propane furnace and deal with the condensation when you just need a little heat to start the morning.

Peace of mind-Water damage
 

Just a thought..I would leave the Air conditioner in if it works. Try using the trailer for a season and see if you use it. Kind of tricky to close up the hole the air conditioner would leave. Just a side note, our escape roof vent cover is not a 14x14. If you need to replace roof vent plastic cover it is best to take off and bring with you to the RV store. The plastic cracks and discolors from the sun. It is good to apply something like Son of a Gun to the plastic vent covers. Take care,Sam