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Old 02-05-2020, 07:51 AM   #1
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Default Water damage

Has any ever replaced floor and or wall from water damage. If so I'm interested in knowing how you did it I have a weak floor and wall in my bath room. And I was wondering if it's not hard to fix or if it's worth fixing.
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Old 02-06-2020, 12:20 AM   #2
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Default Water damage

Dh and I have replaced several walls in our 1990 25ft. classic. One time dh had to rebuild the floor around the toilet. A little more inmformation would be helpful. What year is your HiLo? Towlite or Classic? Could post pictures of the damaged areas.? Some water leaks are caused by the windows needing to be taken out and lined with butyl tape and fresh lexel caulk. You tube has a video on how to do this. Several of us have had to do extensive repairs. If you have the time,$ and skill to do the work then go ahead with the repairs. Only you can decide this. Keep us posted.
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Old 02-06-2020, 01:29 PM   #3
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I'm get all the info and pictures and then post again
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:04 AM   #4
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setxjohn --

Wife and I bought an '83 25 footer and it's going to need the front half: ceiling, walls and part of the floor replaced due to water damage / leaks.

For the most part, it's rather straightforward (very similar to replacing a subfloor in your home) but, it won't be until you dig in and find the source of the leak(s) before you'll know exactly how difficult it will be.

Once you get started, feel free to take pics and post them here if you have any questions. There's a bunch of knowledgeable folks on these boards who can give seasoned advice and/or give moral support.
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Old 02-17-2020, 10:47 AM   #5
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Default Pictures

Pictures
Pictures of the floor is where it's soft
And goes straight to wall that's why toilet is on a board
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File Type: jpg 20200217_094126.jpg (157.9 KB, 7 views)
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Old 02-17-2020, 02:02 PM   #6
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Hello,

I did not have to go through work on the floor, but I did do a lot with walls and ceiling. Here’s a link to that thread where I tried to keep a log in place (with pictures) so that others could have some ideas along the way:

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f35...-rebuild-5496/

The group is full of help and info, and like Shamrock said above - good for moral support too.
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2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

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Old 02-18-2020, 01:34 AM   #7
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Default Fixing floor around toilet.

If my memory serves me correctly DH took shallow cuts with a circular saw to cut the rotted wood around the toilet. Be careful as the black tank is close to the floor. Invest in some good knee pads if you don't always own them. It might be worth your $ to just buy a new toilet. I purchased our ADA height toilet from PPL motor homes in Texas. Get a porcelin one. Not a fun repair if done correctly you should have a rock solid repair that will last many years.
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Old 02-18-2020, 07:07 AM   #8
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r67 -- I read through your other thread... Amazing work on the walls and ceiling! I'm going to be going through the same steps as soon as the crazy Iowa weather clears (probably around May) as I've got similar issues.

I agree with Sam, though. Camper floors aren't very thick so shallow passes with a circular saw is a great way to test the depth without hitting your black water tank or any framing under the floor. Plus, if you can just clear out what needs to be replaced, no sense in doing more work than necessary, right?
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Old 02-18-2020, 06:03 PM   #9
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Thanks Shamrock, it took some time but it was saved and is much loved by the family now.

As a quick question / thought about the floor beneath the toilet ... how much harder would it be to drop that plastic black tank than something like an automotive gas tank? People do that all the time to replace fuel pumps - would the best access be from underneath with the tank removed? Or is it not worth the trouble, just take shallow cuts working slowly out until the good wood is found again?
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1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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Old 02-19-2020, 02:36 AM   #10
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r67 --

From what I can tell, the blackwater tank has a couple of straps which shouldn't be too difficult to remove; just tricky to get to. I would guess the hardest part would be getting under the camper and having room to work (unless you have access to a "mechanic / inspection pit" which would make the job pretty easy.)

Without access to one, I know I wouldn't have the wiggle room.

For those who aren't familiar: Mechanic / Inspection Pit is a "hole in the floor of a garage, etc from which the underside of a vehicle can be examined and serviced."
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Old 02-19-2020, 02:50 PM   #11
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Great point - I forgot about the whole need to lift the vehicle off the ground part of the operation (unless itís a truck). The trailer is definitely too low to pull that off without a pit like you suggest, and the frame isnít meant to lift anywhere except around axles.

Sounds like a top-down fix for sure.
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Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
2018 Tundra
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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