Although it appeared fine I cleaned the sensor (with correct spray cleaner) when I replaced the air filter.

I'm now thinking either my shops mechanic didn't replace the "difficult" to reach back plug(s) or I've got another COP acting up. Another reason I lean that way is the owner showed me 6-8 replaced plugs - when I inquired about the others he said they were thrown away. That seemed strange but I accepted it at the time.

Once I get a reading from Advance Auto I'll return to my mechanic and have him give it another look-see.

Wrascal, Try putting a quart of ATF in the gas tank. It may help and it's a cheap fix. I have heard pros and cons of this, but I have seen it do some miracles at times. It's a great injector cleaner, and the type doesn't seem to matter. I use the stuff from the dollar stores. (check your mileage while using it too.)

You've certainly covered all the usual culprits. I tend to agree about the possibility of some skipped plugs too. Why show you just some of them? Makes no sense to me, unless it's like you are thinking.

I suppose it's possible you have another bad COP. Seems weird though.

I've not read anything about using transmission fluid in the gas, but I HAVE read a number of good reports about adding Techron. If you have a Costco nearby, you can get it there pretty cheaply. At least Techron is a "standard" gas additive. Don't use Seafoam - I've read numerous bad reports on that stuff.

- Jack

Guess I failed to mention that I tried the techron stuff - after running cheap no-name gas for awhile, no difference. That's when I decided to return to tier 3 gas.

Lots of people like Sea Foam but I'm not convinced so declined. And yes I've heard of using ATF but again I've decided against it.

I'm really leaning towards a lazy mechanic

I think you've nailed it, my friend. Too bad. The only way I know to check is to pull the plugs and look at them.

- Jack

I made it to AutoZone today, their scanner detected no codes.

I think next week I'll bring the truck back to the shop. I'm now trying to decide how to word this so as to not hurt any feelings/ accuse them of shenanigans. Who knows, maybe the owner has also been hood-winked.

Something like perhaps one of the plugs backed out or is defective.

The bad COP was replaced due to an earlier owner/mechanic? over-tightening the hold down bolt and cracking the outer case. So stuff does happen. I trust he'll make it right - if that's what it turns out to be, even if he doesn't admit what really happened.

I just now relooked at the workorder. I paid for 10 plugs and replacement labor.

car mechanics
 

Lucas products are good. Best price at Walmart. We use their additive for gas and the one for oil.

I dropped my TV truck off early yesterday. Mid afternoon today I was passing by and saw it parked out front. Owner says its now trial and error (for him) and he replaced a single plug and COP, then drove it, and observed no problem.

As I don't need the vehicle for another 2 weeks I asked him to drive it a bit and observe it.

Wrascal, is the test equipment at Auto Zone or Advance good enough to detect WHICH cylinder may have a bad COP? We own three V-10's, all high mileage, and we are down to carrying spares in the vehicle just in case another one goes.

The scanner AutoZone used didn't appear to be any more sophisticated than my $30 one.

I don't know what my mech. uses but he did advise that he also found no stored codes.

Q: many folks do carry spare COPs but my problem is I wouldn't know which of 10 to replace if required on the highway AND no codes.

I wouldn't have a clue either, and I have only 8 to choose from! :)

- Jack

Today I stopped by to see if the shop had a definitive repair yet and he (owner) said he hadn't gotten back to it due to another customer needing an ign. switch.

He again mentioned just trial and error, swapping one plug and coil at a time. With my original thought in mind (failure to replace all plugs) I mentioned the possibility of two bad plugs and/or COPs and he grimaced.

While jabbering I reminded him of the episode of his only having some of the plugs to show me and suggested that MAYBE one of his mechanics got lazy and failed to replace the additional ones. To that he said no because he personally was the one that did the work on my truck. So I believe him as he's only cheating himself by having this recall work now.

So it remains on-going; I don't need the truck for another two weeks - until my bride and I go camping again, for our anniversary. I forget how many it is nowadays, but I can recall the year (1978). If interested you can do the math.

Buy an IR thermomoter. One that works from a distance. Even HF sells them for under $40 at times.

Dead cyclinder will be cooler at exhaust manifold/head area compared to the rest

Rick

Wrascal
You don't want to hear this but if you have over 100k on your TV you should replace all 10. They are a wear item and OEM ones can be had way cheaper online like fleabay...the fuse is lit

Rick

Ref the thermometer - the engine runs smooth except for an occasional, intermittent SINGLE skip (or miss). I presume therefore that it'd be equally hot? I don't think I've ever had more than 2-3 pops before smoothing out again, maybe not repeating for a min or two, or even three. And only when under load, like pulling or a big hill.

I don't know but I think you're suggesting to replace all 10 COPs, and I did think about that, but my mech, thinks they're fine. I may just have to gamble there and go ahead and buy 10 (cheap generic ones) and keep my OEM ones as backups.

Now what my mech. DID DO, today, was replace all 10 spark plugs at one time, he felt that'd be easier and cheaper than one at a time. I was gonna pick it up and run it for evaluation but he found another unrelated item which I said take care of.

Apparently my vehicle uses a bearing between two shorter drive shafts, rather than a single shaft. I never heard it but he did. The bearing ($60) is starting to make noise, and sounds like a tough job to get off/replace.

Wrascal, that bearing in the driveshaft is NOT easy to replace like a u-joint. Good thing they caught it now, it cannot be done along side the highway or behind the garage on a Saturday morning.

Well you just confirmed what he said- and which I previously poo-pooed - the thought of it being a difficult job. I even told him of my once changing a u-joint on the side of the road (72 MGB) with minimal tools.

He politely listened to me but then I went ahead and approved it.

It's an old beater -with an unknown maintenance history (and now at 182K miles) -so I'm taking care of things as I find them (and/or as he recommends). Over the past 11 months I'm now about $1300 in maintenance items to make it a better, more reliable TV. I sure wish it'd come with a maintenance history.

This morning I picked up this buggy. Work included:

10 new plugs (no charge), fresh lube oil and filter. Topped off tranny fluid/ 1 qt!. New bearing, replace burned out 3rd brake light bulb, installed used step boards (short people and kids) that I found on craigslist (shop provided the nuts, bolts). Just under $200.

Then I run it 60-70 miles and didn't observe any stumbling, so ... it may be fixed. In several weeks I'll hitch up the HiLo and then we'll better know.

Here she is with the new steps. Its important to note that this TV is equipped with the no maintenance appearance package. That's the one where I don't wash/wax/vacuum it. I have hosed down the windshield as needed. Its so much more pleasurable when you don't worry about it.

My 2001 F150 came with that package too, even though I bought it used. I wish the package had included the no maintenance appearance for the underbody too. I Korosealed all of it and a coat of black paint while I put a new gas tank under her last year.

Nice- I like the seating options in the bed!

What is the antenna on the roof for?