1988 funtime 20ft wont raise up
 

I just bought this trailer, Im the second owner. Orginal owners son took the lift ram out because it wouldn't lift, not leaking but wouldn't lift. I reinstalled the ram and put the new battery in. I pressed the button to go up and nothing happened no sounds. I trouble shot as per the manual with a jumper wire from the yellow wire stub to the positive on the battery and the motor runs.

Am I doing something wrong or am I missing something. Any help would be well appreciated.

Could be the switch (lift switch inside main door), but more likely the relay adjacent to the starter (lift) motor. There are several threads on that topic on this forum, try the "search" button". A replacement relay can be found at your local auto parts store.
When your motor engaged, did the top start up?
Chance of air in the hydraulic system?
I'm suspicious that the previous owner's son removed the hydraulic cylinder. I wouldn't think that was his first step in his attempt to resolve an issue, so he could have monkeyed with other components of the lift system.
If you need professional help, there are 2 Hi-Lo repair companies in OH. J and R Trailer Repair in Mt. Vernon or Midget RV & Trailers in Bellville (I think).

Is the relay the one in the battery/pump compartment bolted to the wall? I have 2 of thoses there.

Im not sure about the top going up as i forgot to reconnect the hydraulic line to it was just pumping fluid onto my driveway. Plan to check that today. Also I noticed the guides on the driver side are not engaged, meaning not sliding on each other. How do I fix this.

As for the son, he wasn't a smart one. Im q retired AirForce maintenance guy who has lots of cable experience but nothing with this trailer.

I think 1 relay is to power the lift motor and the other opens the valve to allow hydraulic fluid to return to the reservoir, allowing the top to lower.

Do you have a copy of the owner's manual? There are some available here on the forum. Go to the home page, scroll down to the Library section and look under there for owner's manuals. Don't worry if you don't find a 1988, look for a year that is close....things didn't change drastically from year to year.

Also, some good videos on YouTube. Here's the first one....the rest are linked.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4APWyR5kWkM

Ok, headed to church now, others will pipe in shortly. Lots of good folks on the forum willing to help, you're at the right place. I've never had to replace any cables or had to lift the top half off the bottom half. I'm not sure how to get the guides back on track.

Jolly, Welcome to the forum. As piper said, your in the right place. As far as the guides being engaged on the tracks, you'll have to have the top movable. With the top all the way up, the tracks can be removed from the sides, then I lowered the top about 3". I then slipped the track into the guide, lined the lower screw up and installed the screw and worked my way up (might need help pushing the side in while you do this). Take your time and work both tracks at the same time. I've done this each time I separated top for the units I've worked on.
Tree

I just got done watching the video from piper and my unit has a red light, and only a 3 way toggle to neutral rocker switch, plus the safety bar release. Am I missing something? Do ai need to change this since mine is not like the video?

Easy there....don't jump off into the briar patch just yet. That video was posted in 2011, so the Hi-Lo he used in the video probably came out of the factory 20 years after yours, and it's a 'Classic' model. Just normal upgrading over the years. Yours has all it needs, except your TLC.

With fluid in your driveway, I'm sure you'll have to properly service the fluid tank. With the top lowered, the Dextron (1 thru 4) tranny fluid should be about 1/2" from the fill hole. Congrats on putting the piston back in. Hope all goes well from here.
Tree

So here is an update. I pulled the battery back out, the hydraulic pump out, and cleaned up that area. I found a broken blue wire that came out of the coiled wire bundle and a broken white wire that runs along the frame and into the area where the converter, fuse panel and I believe the hot water tank. After doing some tracing and looking at the wire diagram which does not call out any blue wir in the coiled wire bundle i decided that the must go together. Interesting thing is the wiring diagram calls for a white wire for stereo in the coiled bundle but my harness doesn't have one and I dont know see a stereo in the unit.

I have drained and fully serviced the hydraulic pump, replaced the battery with a 950cca unit, replaced the solenoid, replaced the 30amp breaker, and all the battery cables. The unit still would not go up on battery power but then I pulled it into land power and it went up. Now I cant get it to go down. With it pluged in and pressing the up switch the pump runs but if I pull the release and press the the down switch nothing happens.

With what I just did and what I have paid for it Im at $875. Did I do ok? It will need som paneling replaced at some point.

The other thing I foubd is that with the unit pulled in the bathroom GIF will chirp till it bl ou ws the breaker. Will have to replace it too.

I will try to figure out how to post some pictures

Thanks for everyone's help on this

One last follow up for today as now im totally lost. After going through and rereading the manual twice I decided to add some extra transmission fluis to the pump to make sure that I filled it to the right level.

I plugged the unit into the land power and ran it up pulled the release and it came down slowly. I ran it up and back down on land power with no problem.

I checked the vrand new battery voltage and its at 12.47v. But the unit will not operate on battery. Should I charge the battery more? Not sure what to do at this point

Check this article:

https://rvlifestyle.com/understandin...ate-of-charge/

It states: "Resting fully charged 12 volt batteries are around 12.8-12.9 volts, and flat dead ones are at 12.0 volts, so 12.4 volts on a resting battery means it's about 50% charged."

Don't assume the battery charger built into your converter is good, and if it is good, it'll probably take days to charge your battery. I carry a trickle charger with me when camping and keep it plugged in to shore power so my battery 'should' always be good. I've also carried a spare battery with me before when I thought I might be out boondocking. You don't want to have to manually pump up the top.....DAMHIK! Yeah, been there, done that! It's no fun! Figuring out the weirdness of Hi-Lo, or any RV electrical system can be an exercise in frustration.

Also, shore power seldom provides enough amps to lift the top. I'm guessing when you say you're running it up on shore power, you're really getting most lift from the battery. Charge that battery up with a real battery charger and see what it'll do after 24 hours.

Really glad to hear the top is moving. be curious, and check if shore power is charging the batt. Shore power is probably giving just enough kick to raise the top, as piper said, shore power can't do it by itself. Like piper, I keep a Battery Minder Plus with me. I use that instead of keeping shore power plugged to the trailer when season is over, keeps the batt topped off.
Once you get the top situation under control, most the other stuff will be easier. Then the fun begins--making it your own!
Tree

I had one that suddenly wouldn’t rise. Someone walked around the whole thing. Screws had vibrated loose and we’re stopping it from rising. It happened after every long trip

Is there a list of HiLo repair places by state? Any in KC Missouri area that anyone knows of. I should have searched first but I will as soon as I ask.