Failed Safety Bar
 

So after dropping off the trailer after the last camping trip of the year 3 weeks ago, we left the top up for a couple days so we could clean it out and winterize. Upon returning to the camper, the top had creeped down to the half way position. :confused:

The top would go up all the way just fine, but lowering again it would cause it to stop in the exact same position. Now I remember hearing about some safety bar type device that would prevent the top from creeping down past a certain point, so wtf??? ;) :confused: Up the top went so we could do our cleaning, and I trip over a 3" tall lump in the floor. :confused: The top stayed up two weeks without budging an inch.

Today I jacked the whole thing up and crawled under only to find that the safety bar was actually being rammed upward into the floor causing the lump. The small bit of metal that held the safety bar in place broke from it's very small spot welds then curled up under itself.

So now I have a 12" square hole in the floor of my camper and a useless safety bar. Based on the poor quality spot welds I would say ALL Safety bars are useless. At least the top is now down for the winter and everything else can wait until spring.

The same thing happened to one of our club members. They were lowering their trailer when they heard a strange noise. They raised the top and found the safety bar sticking thru the floor. They have a 2007 with a tipout (I think).The factory was interested about what happened but did nothing about it. The dealer made the repairs but couldn't figure out how it happened. Good luck with your repair.

Bob

Antares,

In the spring, when you open your trailer, if able please take and post some photos. May help some of us take measures to prevent the same thing happening to us!

Thanks,
Jim

I have 2 HI-LOs and so far no safety bar problems, the 95 does rest on the bar but the 2209 stays up and so far never rests on the safety bar. If the bars are not keep clean there is the possibility that they will rust and weaken them, same thing goes for spot welds. Winter salt on the roads increases rusting, one winter trip in my 2209 and I couldn't believe how must things started to rust under the trailer, was nice black paint before the trip.

I still have a couple things left to do in the camper so I will take some pics of the carnage. Unfortunately there isn't anything you can do as a preventative measure as the weld in question is on the top of the bar right under the floor. In order to make this into a proper full seam weld it would require pulling up the floor to gain access to the seam. I assume the reason they only used spot welds in this place is that the floor was already installed in the manufacturing process.

When I was at the factory in 2004, from what I could see everything was welded on the frame before the floor was put on. But who knows how it was done in 1986.

Wife says sell it-update 7-30-15
 

Our 1986 22ft. Fun Chaser had the safety bar come through the floor. Turns out a friend that used it did not hold the safety bar cable release until it fully lowered. After many hot and frustrating hours to get the safety bar back in place, it turns out it is impossible to do so!!! The Hi-Lo's are built from the frame up and the safety bar is put in before the floor is installed. Thanks goes out to Midget RV and the post of the guy that welded it in place. We will be cutting a 4x6 inch hole over the existing hole, cut 3/4 of an inch off the end of the safety bar and tack weld it in place. The safety bar can still raise without falling out and coming through the floor again. You can see pictures in the Hi-Lo's for sale forum under "So sad, wife says sell it". I will keep you posted. ( I might get to talk the wife into keeping the Hi-Lo, but I doubt it). dfinney005@yahoo.com

Did Midget RV give you any idea why the safety bar came through the floor? There had to be a cause. I think not holding the cable during the whole lowering process was the cause. There had to be something else wrong somewhere.

On my trailer, I have only been pulling the cable release until the top half lowers past the bar, then releasing it. I haven't had a problem thus far but now I'm wondering if I'm doing it incorrectly? :confused:

Rich, I noticed that my bar was not dropping into place when raised, I didn't hear the "clunk" I should have. Crawled under to do maintenance and found the reason. It simply stayed up. I stuck a paint brush wedged under the fixed end and it worked. So I knew it needed a spring to help it into place. The only spring I had, that had the right amount of tension, was from a lawn sprinkler! Perfect! This has worked since April and hasn't moved at all.
I think the reason some of these bars bend is the weight on the bar and perhaps a weak center section. Dropping the tops' weight onto the bar without pulling the cable is just too much for the bar to hold. Creeping down doesn't cause the impact as when using the switch. Just a thought.
Treeclimber

Lucky, It is somewhat confusing because in the manual it says to pull the cable, lower using the switch and listen and look... but never says to let go of the cable. However, on the video, I think the demonstrator lets go like you do. I've done it both ways, no prob, but now I pull and hold it until down. Got nothing else to do with the other hand anyway. :D
Tree

Yes, not pulling the cable until it was down all the way was the reason. Going to try and get it welded into place today and perhaps get to the mountains this weekend. Has been 2 years since the Hi-Lo has been on the road. I might even get to talk the wife into keeping it instead of selling it. Inside is in such great shape. Lots of storage and everything works with no leaks.

I think some people lower the weight of the top onto the safety bar once the top is lifted all the way. I don't believe that what was intended by HiLo. I also don't think it is necessary to hold the cable out while lowering all the way. I think the safety bar problem is a result of some type of damage or lack of proper maintenance. If my dealer friend was still living he could probably give me the reason because he has seen it happen.

I think in my manual, or perhaps in the videos, it states to try and lower the top half once you hear the safety bar engage (clunk). It should not lower. Then, to momentarily press "up" on the switch to take the pressure off.

Spot on Lucky! After a careful review, that's what I found. But The video never mentions letting go of the cable while lowering. Guess it's not necessary to hold it, because after the stop, there's nothing to stop it. But I understand the amount of pressure that lowering it on the bar causes, considering the age of our units or the amount of corrosion the bar has. :eek:
Tree

P.S. Just wondering, if the bar where made out of ANGLE instead of flat I'm sure it would have much more strength.....

I keep the cable pulled for the whole duration during lowering.

On my hi-lo I raise the top, until squeal, and reverse the switch momentarily to settle the trlr onto the safety rod. NO pulling of the safety cable. Thus removing all pressure from/on the hydraulic system

There is NO creep that way.

When lowering I pull the cable after the initial raising to release pressure on the safety bar. I hold long enough for the top to pass the safety bar and release.

I think that if the safety rod is well lubricated and you use proper sequence to lower, that the rod will not bend.
I lubricate mine before every trip!

Having a weld break speaks volumes about the build!

I had a weld break on the rear pulley arm, mounts to the frame, that routes the cable vertical on the side. Major PIA to repair and stopped our trip dead. Top would not go up, or down. I had to crawl under the trlr and pop the safety bar up. Allowing the top to come down with NO control. Only needed to repair the weld and replace the cable that got distorted and frayed.

Just a question, If you lower the to onto the bar, is there still a complete seal between top and bottom? :confused: I'd think so, cause the top only drops an inch or so, right? Okay 2 questions.
Treeclimber

According to the HiLo manual you raise the top until you hear the safety bar drop in place and then the squeal of the hydraulic pump. Then lower the top to make sure the safety bar is holding. Then raise the top back all the way up. The seal is intended to be fully sealed in that position. If the hydraulics are in proper order the top will be held in place without creep.
I having been raising my top for ten years that way and have never had the top creep back down.